Alright so here is my set up and I am wondering if I need to upgrade my alternator in order that my car does not die. The altenator is the one that came with my b16 swap.

I have a 91 hatch with a b16 in it.
Deck = alpine CDE9874B
battery = Odyssey PC680 (located in trunk)
Subs = 2x10' kicker cvt 400rms each
Speakers = 2x6.5" alpine type-R coaxial 2-way
Amp = Kicker zx350.4 300rms (powering the speakers)
Alpine MRP-M850 (powering subs)
Capacitor = 1farad stinger

Also I geuss how do I test the alt to see if it is putting out enough ampage to keep up?
And what is the process I go through in order to set my stereo to create greatest sound quality?

 

As far as sound quality goes, it just depends on whatever you like. I usually like a flat eq band because the company the produces the cd messes with the eq so that it sounds like it is supposed to.

 

you won't achieve sq with that setup...

 

why?

The SQ question is secondary to the alt question.....many just wondering how to adjust my amps in order to max my sub potential
And besides to whole hatch rattle it sounds pretty good with a flat eq

 

Where are your tweeters? where are those coaxils cutting off at...250hz? wheres your sound deadening?

 

sound deadening............lol............when the budget allows it will exist (I have more rattles then a baby shaker)
where should those coaxils be cutting off at?
why do I need tweeters I get great highs out of the coaxils atm.

 

nvm I have found all the answers I need on www.my12volt.com
Thanks for the constructive help

 

you said u wanted sq lol

 

I asked it wrong....what I really wanted is how to set my amps properly in order that I do not blow my subs/speakers but still get the most power out of them.

 

would be nice if u can some cheap comps instead of using the coaxial

high pass the coaxials @ around 100-150 hz..don't think they'll get any lower than that without over excursion

you can low pass the subs @ 90 or 100 and see how it sounds

 

You won't "blow" your speakers if you adjust the settings of the amps.
Just adjust it until it sounds good to you.
When I get a new setup, I'll spend a week adjusting it until I get it to sound right.

 

To your original question, yes you should upgrade your alt.

The Alpine amp is 1x500W RMS into 4 ohms or 1x800W RMS into 2 ohms.
The Kicker amp is 2x175W RMS into 4 ohms.

Depending on the load on the Alpine amp, [2 or 4 ohms] you ar putting out at least 850W RMS and a possible 1150W RMS, [2 ohm load on Alpine amp] even 850W RMS will need more current then the stock alt. can produce. 94

 

Fcm ya thats what I came up with too. Still need to figure out exactly why my output I need for my alt....if anyone has an idea as to a vehicle with a big enough alt (100+amps) that I could get and swap in let me know

Bryce

 

where did u get 1150 from?

what is the ohm config of the subs..single 4 or dual 4?

 

its 800 (alpine rms at 2ohms) + 350 (kicker rms at 4ohms) = 1150rms
subs are single 4 wired in parralel in order to get the 2ohms resistance

when punching in numbers into http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp#current
I did power=1150 watts, voltage=12, which gives me a total of 95amps
if I instead go with power=1150watts, voltage=14.4, I get 80 amps.

hmmm makes me wonder if my alt is a 80amp alt then it might be enough....I really need to figure out what my alt ampage output is.

Bryce

 

ya I wanted the type Rs and was not willing to pay more for the comps at the time (wish I had)

currently I have them set at 100hz cut out for both my subs and my speakers and I like the sound. Going to continue to tweak them a little.

 

should've went with the phoenix gold rsd's then

they're about the same price as the type r coaxials and will blow them out the water

 

the kicker does 175x2 bridged(which i assume u dont have it at)

if u dont have it bridged it does 60x4

i would do the big 3 and upfront batt and see how it goes

 

According to a couple different electrical guys in my city they all said that I should do the math with 14.4volts which means that when I have everything running on cold rainy nights I should just turn my stereo down and then my alt can keep up. Maybe that it wrong and I need to go to something bigger but so far all I have found is going up to a 90amp alt, due to lack of room where the alt sits.
If people have run into this same problem how did they fix it? Or any other thoughts

Thanks
Bryce

 

I have it bridged. And I already did the big three upgrade, and i can not fit a battery up front due to space because of my AEM intake and my b16 swap, which is why I went with a battery mounted in the back

 

Last year when I bought the speakers I was confronted with a decision between coaxil type rs or comp type rs and I choose the cheaper ones. I am not changing my system...in the original post those are the parts I have.

 

which batt did u go with?

 

I stated that in my original post, PC680

Bryce

 

I would suggest upgrading your alternator if you are having dimming issues with your system.

 

You can get away with the stock alt., music is dynamic, it is very unlikely you will ever produce the full 1150W and if you did it would be because you listen to the system at full volume, it would be for a split sec. at a time and would sound ugly, the amps would be clipping and although the subs make take it the Alpine 6.5" would not.

At "normal" listening levels your using much less current and the avarage draw is much lower, peak draws are handled by the batt., [a cap can help there] and your "electrical guys" are correct, turning down the volume as you turn on other loads, [head lights, blower motor, wipers and so on] will help.

There are more then a few suppliers of aftermarket "HO" alt. for your car, a 180-200 amp alt. is probably the single best thing you can do for SQ.

Although a set of component speakers would probably help SQ, a custom install of your Alpine 6.5" coax will surprize the hell out of you, I bet I could extend bass response below 100Hz, probably below 80Hz, and gain 3dB of output, [clean output].

Your overpowered for the 6.5" Alpines, [75W RMS per channel] but that's a good thing, you will never drive the Kicker amp into clipping and you will have all the dynamic "head room" you need, amp will run cooler, all good. 94