what thickness for skid plate?
The attached picture shows the ride height.
To give my oil pan, and downpipe a change to survival if I was to hit something I figured it'd be a good idea to custom fit a skid plate.
I'd rather remove a skid plate everytime I want to change my oil, than change an oil pan everytime I get towed back home.
The skid plate has to be sturdy enough, yet it shouldn't be too heavy(obviously). What steel thickness should I be looking at?
To give my oil pan, and downpipe a change to survival if I was to hit something I figured it'd be a good idea to custom fit a skid plate.
I'd rather remove a skid plate everytime I want to change my oil, than change an oil pan everytime I get towed back home.
The skid plate has to be sturdy enough, yet it shouldn't be too heavy(obviously). What steel thickness should I be looking at?
IDk what the purpose of the car is but y don't u just raise it up alil, u would get better traction too and not wear the living H377 out of the inside of ur tires. Just my thoughts!
if the camber and toes is corrected OP wont have tire or traction problems
8th of an inch is thick enough to protect...but it depends what you hit.
8th of an inch is thick enough to protect...but it depends what you hit.
Neuspeed Springs & KYB shocks is the setup and the height is not adjustable.
Thanks
Last edited by blaze_125; Oct 6, 2009 at 11:57 AM.
If the camber is correct on a car that low then he dropped some $$ in camber kits, lol. When I first started with H/A I was that low too and spent more $ on tires than anything else, lol..
OP as long as you see saw the car over speed bumps you should be fine. Also as you probably, when you go up a hill, drive way, etc make sure to go at it at a angle. I'm probably just as low or lower and have never messed up my oil pan. Have picks of how low in my car section below my name.
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Do research before you post nonsense. A rear and front camber kit shouldn't cost more then 300. Whats H/A, do you mean n/a?
Yeah the camber kits r $300 but if he raised the car up then he could have spent that $300 on anything else!! H/A is Honda/Acura or would u rather it be A/H?? Makes no difference to me.. Use that lump between ur shoulders b4 posting.! It's not my car so if he would rather spend his money on camber kits and/or tires IDC, was just simply putting the idea back out there.
The front end will most likely go up a notch once the rear struts/springs are installed. So I might gain an extra 1/2 inch of clearance at most.
For the record... I am not currently driving the car with the front lowered and rear stock lmao Swapping the front now was just very convenient since everything was removed for the swap.
I'm not following. I understand the principle, but I don't get how it would work as the motor bolts from under the mount? Adding washers would actually make it sit lower.
That is actually still an option. Getting a diff setup that is... since my current one is not adjustable.
For the record... I am not currently driving the car with the front lowered and rear stock lmao Swapping the front now was just very convenient since everything was removed for the swap.
try washers under the motor mount bolts..to raise the motor a tad before it hits the hood.
That is actually still an option. Getting a diff setup that is... since my current one is not adjustable.
Last edited by blaze_125; Oct 6, 2009 at 12:21 PM.
on the drivers side it can be raised. not the tranny or rear. just an idea. this guy down the road had an h22 and raised his driver side one cuz his pan was almost on the ground but he ended up touching the hood.
Cause you know, with the engine permenantly tilted like that, the oil would "sit" on the passenger side... instead of being leveled
beats me. i havent done that before. as long as the pump is running. everything will get coated and after its turned off. i dont see how anything could be hurt.
it wont raise it awhole lot though
it wont raise it awhole lot though
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