B16 or ZC
Hello all
I'm saving up for my first swap into my 88 dx crx. I have been doing research on the 2 swaps and they both have their positives and negatives. I guess I have 2 major questions. First, I know that the DOHC ZC has clearance issues with the stock hood and most people's solution is to either buy a new hood ($500 shipped) or remove the timing belt cover. I'd rather not spend $500 on a hood. Is running without the timing belt cover safe? Also are there any other solutions, like I said I have been doing research and I can't find any other threads about this.
Now for my second question. I know that the b16 adds about 100lbs to the car. I can't find any threads on anyone having suspension issues with the extra weight but 100lbs still concerns me. I have eibach pro-kit springs on my car now. Does anyone know if the b16 will lower my car noticeably more? The car is already as low as I want it to go and I don't want to have to put on new springs being that this swap is already pushing my budget.
Also feel free to comment on which swap is better because I am having a hard time deciding on which route to go. My budget is a pretty strict $3000 so any advice would be helpful being that I've never done a swap before (at least in a Honda).
I'm saving up for my first swap into my 88 dx crx. I have been doing research on the 2 swaps and they both have their positives and negatives. I guess I have 2 major questions. First, I know that the DOHC ZC has clearance issues with the stock hood and most people's solution is to either buy a new hood ($500 shipped) or remove the timing belt cover. I'd rather not spend $500 on a hood. Is running without the timing belt cover safe? Also are there any other solutions, like I said I have been doing research and I can't find any other threads about this.
Now for my second question. I know that the b16 adds about 100lbs to the car. I can't find any threads on anyone having suspension issues with the extra weight but 100lbs still concerns me. I have eibach pro-kit springs on my car now. Does anyone know if the b16 will lower my car noticeably more? The car is already as low as I want it to go and I don't want to have to put on new springs being that this swap is already pushing my budget.
Also feel free to comment on which swap is better because I am having a hard time deciding on which route to go. My budget is a pretty strict $3000 so any advice would be helpful being that I've never done a swap before (at least in a Honda).
B16 all the way. N the longer run u will come out on top over the zc. Ctr cams ,short geared tranny like a b16 or a hydro ctr!!! And a good ecu like a hondata s100, obd1 conversion. It'd b a pretty wicked little Rex
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Thanks for all of the input. The D16Z6 is an OBD1 motor if I'm not mistaken? I'd rather keep it obd0 so I don't have to worry about wiring more than I already have to. The B18C1 would cost me over 2k just for the motor/trans/ECU and that wouldn't leave me much for the rest (mounts, linkage, clutch, etc.) If I do the ZC i will definitely do a turbo down the road. Any other input?
Thanks for all of the input. The D16Z6 is an OBD1 motor if I'm not mistaken? I'd rather keep it obd0 so I don't have to worry about wiring more than I already have to. The B18C1 would cost me over 2k just for the motor/trans/ECU and that wouldn't leave me much for the rest (mounts, linkage, clutch, etc.) If I do the ZC i will definitely do a turbo down the road. Any other input?
zc pretty much just bolts right in, and you can find one for like $500 and use your trans if you have a d series one
^^^yea right!!! i had a dohc zc nd a b16 in my four dooe if i were u do a zc its cheaper parts are easyer 2 come across seein as how the motor comes in a integra the b16 is faster but u said u were tight on money so idk not really a cheap motor u could get just a long block from tiger japanese for 750 nd find a gs-r tranny which is what i have right now nd its gonna cost round 1500 ruffly depending on how good u are at find parts.. the mounts u could get from ebay for 100 and i think the shift linkage its like 150 or something like that ... nd the b16 is already obd-0 which mean all u gotta do is find the b16 ecu wire the vtec and GOooo personally if money is a issue get a zc i had one and i beat ls's wit b16 trannys lol just make sure u have either a si tranny or the dx 4 speed tranny i ran both and believe it or not the 4 speed tranny got down long *** 3rd gear come in handy on a non-vtec motor i hope my i shed some light on your little issue
btw a boosted zc runs hard as a mother ***** i would have done that to mine if it didnt blow ohh nd another thing im pretty sure that zc has the nicest compression of all single cam motors (ima say its a singlecam just cuz it might as well be )
btw a boosted zc runs hard as a mother ***** i would have done that to mine if it didnt blow ohh nd another thing im pretty sure that zc has the nicest compression of all single cam motors (ima say its a singlecam just cuz it might as well be )
^^^yea right!!! personally if money is a issue get a zc i had one and i beat ls's wit b16 trannys lol just make sure u have either a si tranny or the dx 4 speed tranny i ran both and believe it or not the 4 speed tranny got down long *** 3rd gear come in handy on a non-vtec motor i hope my i shed some light on your little issue
btw a boosted zc runs hard as a mother ***** i would have done that to mine if it didnt blow ohh nd another thing im pretty sure that zc has the nicest compression of all single cam motors (ima say its a singlecam just cuz it might as well be )
btw a boosted zc runs hard as a mother ***** i would have done that to mine if it didnt blow ohh nd another thing im pretty sure that zc has the nicest compression of all single cam motors (ima say its a singlecam just cuz it might as well be )
u should deff explain why a b16 is more bang for ur buck im sure we would all love to hear that explanation... not trying 2 be a dick just dont understand y? cuz in reality a zc is as close as your gonna get 2 a ls idk if u have ever seen or driven a zc but they look the same and have almost the same power wit the ls have more of course
oh and to answer his other question there isnt a problem wit not having your timin belt cover off i personally never had one
oh and to answer his other question there isnt a problem wit not having your timin belt cover off i personally never had one
It sounds to me like the zc is the cheapest way to go and it will leave more money for a turbo setup which I always wanted to do. Those engines are good for 200hp w/ stock internals? Anyone have recommendations for where to buy. I'm in Virginia so I kinda want to buy somewhere close to keep shipping costs down. Is JDM Engine Depot a good dealer? They have the cheapest engines around this area. And back to my original question, any ideas for hood clearance other than buying an expensive hood or running without the timing belt cover?
if u really wanna keep the timing belt cover just take the 2 hood bolts off and let it sit on the little bracket i guess i rode like that for a while 2 dont worry du cant see your motor it only moves around enough to give the the "proper engine clearance" lmao
ohhh and tigerjapanese.com sells dohc zc on da low like 600 and like 150 shipping and handling depending were u live
ohhh and tigerjapanese.com sells dohc zc on da low like 600 and like 150 shipping and handling depending were u live
Also just throwing this out there I have no desire to be "the fastest." I just want a car that's fun to drive and easily upgradable. Im sure im gonna get fried buy my heart is with muscle, I had an 87 vette that I had to sell to get money for college. I miss on ramp bombing and just going out for joyrides in the mountains. I wanted to make the rex something respectable, not necessarily the fastest on the east coast.
If it were up to me I would get a D16z6,
D16Z6
* Found in
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic Si
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic EX, EX-V
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic ESi (European Market)
o 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol Si (US)
o 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol ESi (European)
+ Displacement : 1,590 cc (97 cu in)
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in)
+ Rod Length : 137MM
+ Rod/Stroke : 1.52
+ Compression : 9.2:1
+ Power : 125 hp (93.2 kW, 127 ps) @ 6600 rpm
+ Torque : 106 ft·lb (14.7 kg/m, 144 Nm) @ 5200 rpm
+ Piston Code : P28
+ Volumetric Efficiency : 87.68%
+ Redline : 7200 rpm
+ Fuel Cut : 7411 rpm
+ VTEC Switchover : 4800 rpm[3]
+ Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
+ Head Code : P08
+ ECU Code : P28
Then I would turbocharge it, and get a phantom grip LSD.
You would also need to get a jumper/step-up harness(obd0 to obd1)
there is advantages in going from obd0 to obd1 such as ignition and tuning options.
with $3000 this swap is very possible.
If it isn't your daily driver I would wait around a while and use craigslist to find some good deals.
D16Z6
* Found in
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic Si
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic EX, EX-V
o 1992-1995 Honda Civic ESi (European Market)
o 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol Si (US)
o 1993-1995 Honda Del Sol ESi (European)
+ Displacement : 1,590 cc (97 cu in)
+ Bore and Stroke : 75 mm × 90 mm (3.0 in × 3.5 in)
+ Rod Length : 137MM
+ Rod/Stroke : 1.52
+ Compression : 9.2:1
+ Power : 125 hp (93.2 kW, 127 ps) @ 6600 rpm
+ Torque : 106 ft·lb (14.7 kg/m, 144 Nm) @ 5200 rpm
+ Piston Code : P28
+ Volumetric Efficiency : 87.68%
+ Redline : 7200 rpm
+ Fuel Cut : 7411 rpm
+ VTEC Switchover : 4800 rpm[3]
+ Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
+ Head Code : P08
+ ECU Code : P28
Then I would turbocharge it, and get a phantom grip LSD.
You would also need to get a jumper/step-up harness(obd0 to obd1)
there is advantages in going from obd0 to obd1 such as ignition and tuning options.
with $3000 this swap is very possible.
If it isn't your daily driver I would wait around a while and use craigslist to find some good deals.



