I was using .RJ's thread about the Koni shock install, but the pictures no longer work. Regardless, I have a question that I have not been able to get an answer to through the search function.

Please bear with my as this is my first time putting together a shock + spring.

I have put together the rear Tokico shocks + H&R springs. Before moving forward with installing and putting together the front shocks + springs, I thought I would get some clarification first.

The top 14mm self-locking nut and 5mm hex key secures the upper mount to the shock absorber's shaft/rod. The Tokico instructions say 10.5 ft/lbs. I only have a regular 3/8" drive torque wrench so I simply used a open-ended 14 mm and hex to lock it hand tight. I definitely didn't tighten more than 1/4 of a turn after tight.

Due to the directions saying a spring compressor isn't req'd for lowering springs, I had a friend compress as much as he could while I tightened the 14mm self-locking nut.

I noticed that after both rears were put together, one of the shaft/rod ends at the top shows maybe three threads whereas the other shaft/rod shows barely any threads and is pretty much level with the 14mm nut.

See picture and the right shock body has a few threads showing above the self-locking nut whereas the left shock body is flush/level.



Is this normal? I tightened both the same way. (tight + less than 1/4 turn)

The order of install was bumpstop, bumpstop plate, dust cover boot + cover, spring, spring rubber mount, and lastly the damper mounting rubber and collar provided by Tokico for both the rear shocks. I used a Honda service manual for reference as well.

End notes:

Question 1: Is it normal to have one shock rod showing more threads above the self-locking nut?

Questions 2: For those who have had experience with the Illumina's, did they come from the factory on setting 5? Installed the adj **** as instructed, but the instructions are vague.

 

am i just not seeing how to torque this properly? you torque the 14mm and not the hex nut i thought.

AM I JUST LOOKING TOO MUCH INTO THIS?

 

the above has no impact on anything. what might be causing the height difference is the bushings. the ones with thread showing are just compressed more. as long as that nut is tightened down to what most of us would call "snug" just install them on the car.

 

ok thanks for shutting me up!! i'd rather ask now then deal with taking everything apart later.

 

check them after you drive a couple hundred miles. once the new bushings settle you might be able to crank them down a few more threads. remember, you want tight but not to the point you have to reef on it

 

you should be screwing the nut down more.

following the torque specs is misleading if theres extra preload by the force fo the spring, even if you have a friend trying to push it down.

but since its together, what you should do is install the shocks and then when the car is on the ground and level, you will be able to screw the nut down with no spring force affecting it.

i dont really follow torque specs on that, but you definitely dont want to "gorilla" the nut either. just get it down to the end of the threads.