Hello,
To all who own or experienced buddy club camshaft spec IV, would like to know what is or was your
1-Engine?
2-cam gear degree dialing for intake and exhaust?
3-At which compression?
4- WHP if available.
5-And please if possible state your opinion regarding these camshafts.
Note: I will not the use your input for tuning, just for reference.

Thanks

 

I got them and they seem pretty good to me. i really feel the difference once VTEC comes on. b4 vtec they just feel ok

I would also like to know other ppls setting as well as their VTEC switch over rpm.

Anyway my motor is a Built B18C block, LS crank and rods, Wiseco 11.8-12.25+ pistons, Unported head (for now) Omnipower flat valves, Buddy club valvetrain.Blox IM, TypeR throttle body, Tri-Y header, 440cc injectors, Walbro 255lphHP pump, short ram intake, 2.5 exhaust.

My Buddy Club Cam gears are set at -1IN 0EX. And my vtec switches at like 6200. If i advance the intake and retard the exhaust the car actually got slower (or maybe it is in my mind since the motor was on the way out and spin a bearing tuning). The car drops of of vtec goin into 3rd gear and i would like to fix that and try to get my vtec back down to 5500. so it would continue to haul a$$...that is the only thing i hate about my car now.

 

is your car even tuned?

 

I'm sure it was. I've used the Buddy CLub IV cams as well with a similar setup. I've to say that the cams are ok, but like the ramping of the Toda Spec Bs.

 

yeh it is tuned regular....Hondata s300, and it is tuned at best with those settings.
I am using the typeR 1st and 2nd gear GSR 3rd and 4th and LS 5th. on a 4.785 FD but i am reving to 8200 cuz i dont wanna rev it higher with the LS crank and rods

 

Where is your rev limit at? and where does it stop making power? I bet the items in bold are the root cause.

 

eg6madness, your setup is identical to mine, except I am cr/vtec 85mm bored "wisco" same as your compression, and 74mm throttle body+ported aftermarket manifold, and maybe few things .
It is street wideband tuned on 0-IN 0-EX "no dyno in my area", vtec set to 5500 and revlimiter to 8900, the car push very hard till the 4th gear(121 mile), but when i engage the fifth gear my car will feel as if it is stock cr/vtec, maybe slower, and the RPM + speedo will slooooow their way up .
And I am using YS2 hydro trans with Competition clutch stage 5!
So i am trying to figure out what other buddy club users are facing, cause when it was stock the car was pushing hard through all the gears.

Thanks

 

My rev limit is 8500. It makes power all the way to redline. I can shift the limit upward but as I said i am afraid of revving it that high on the stock rods.

The car was dynoed b4 but that time we didnt adjust the cam gears. car made 226. But all the other times it was street wideband tuned.

H22ACRX:- at 5500 does ur vtec engagement feel strong or does it dip?

mar778c:- the car was doin that b4 the Tri-Y.....if the 2.5 too big or too small?

 

I run 3" and I recommend it.

 

3" on a NA car......i always heard that is too big.

are you running Buddy Cllub spec 4 cams?
if so what are your gears set to ?

 

to the people having issues with vtec engagement dips, thats a tuning/cam timing issue. i've used many cams and bc4's are my personal favourite for properly built and well thought out 1.8L's

 

do u use the conventional advance Intake and retard Exhaust with ur Buddy club setups?

 

Set them up at the centerlines Buddy Club recommends and you should be close.

 

when taking into consideration unknown deck height and whether or not the head has been milled, there is no universal setting. i personally had to advance both cams

 

Same here on my 3+.

 

i have bc4s and i fall out of vtec between 2nd and 3rd.....my vtec is at 6600, no dip in power, i make power all the way to 9000, rev limit is 9500....cams are +1 intake and 0 on exhasut, i retarded the exhasut initially -2 and power did nothing...hope that helps??? ill post up a graph later

 

eg6madness, my car feels very strong at 5500 will push hard till rev limiter.
At the beginning I got cam dialer gauge, which showed me to set the intake cam at +6 and the exhaust cam +7, tuned, the car pushed hard on 1st,2nd and 3rd,even broke 2 stock axles in the same day(I am waiting for my beefier axle to arrive) but the 4th and the 5th were horrible, big lose of power I can feel it.
After,I returned them to 0IN 0EX,car is better except in the 5th gear, was same as above!

Thanks

 

dyno sheet as promised....



setup is

81.5mm
11.5:1 forged je's
eagle h beams
stock gsr head
bc4 cams
rmf header
skunk2 manifold
6 inch velocity stack on a short ram intake

 

H22ACRX:- so how come u set it to 0 0 ....wouldnt 6+ 7+ make the the most power and the best vtec transitions? havent you tried anything from 0 to +4 on either intake or exhaust.

93egallmotor: have you ever lower your vtec point ? looking at the graph it seems like it could lower some what, it's like the car is holding back for some rpm b4 vtec.

 

eg6madness- +6 and +7 setup was worse than 0 0,at least at 0 0 my 4th gear was pulling hard while on +6 and +7 4th and 5th were lose of power! so I decided to start from Zero Zero, but i thought to open this thread to have some references before I try each setup.

Rollo Lawson- Please can you mention what other cams you are comparing with BC4, cause I am also comparing mine to my old setup stock B16A with Crower stage 2 camshafts, and with these cams I was extremely satisfied for the gain I had all over the RPM and the 5 gears, but BC I am not totally satisfied!

93egallmotor - Looking at your graph something weird, between almost 6400 and 6800 RPM, I can notice that your HP is semi flat, and at the same ranges your torque is dropping to gain back both after the 6800, and I think that what eg6madness was pointing on, so I would like to ask the same question, did you try to lower the vtec point?

Thanks

 

Rollo's set-up

 

yeh i understood but that is why i asked if u had tried anything other than the 6 and 7. and if u tried anywhere 0 and +4. give it a try, i kno how it goes not having a dyno nearby so i know it can be a teadious job of adjusting and "feeling" where the car makes power,. if it were me i would try both sides (+4 and -4). and try a good wideband tune and see how it goes. I choose 4 because I dont like goin much further adn pistons kiss valves .

 

I use these cams and love um. i made real good power and have an awesome vtec crossover. My car never falls out of vtec nor has any dips on power.
My set up:
B18c1 with rs machine 81.5mm usdm p73 pistons -.005 mill off the head and -.005 off the block surface, two layer head gasket,flat faced valves, Professional products 70mm throttle body,skunk2 intake manifold, Ebay knock off tri-y header, hayame 2.5" exhaust,aem hybrid 2 3/4" cold air intake,tuned on s300 and the spec 4s of course.

Cam gears are degreed at +1 exhaust and 0 intake

The motor should be at about 12:1 compression

Power output is 210whp and 137 fpt

I love these cams, I changes to flat faced valves and went form a itr cam and made 21 more whp so... yah im happy with them. I dont know why but my motor crosses over flawlessly at 4600 rpm... it sounds crazy but you cant even see a blip in on the dyno sheet and feels awesome. My rev limit is set to 9200 rpm but i shift at 8800-8900. My set up made peak hp at 8300rpm and held it tell right under 9000.

 

^^^ Then I must be doing something wrong here. I'm set at .5 intake and 0 exhaust, and I just seem to be getting a small "hesitation" while in vtec going from 5000-7000, then it will pick back up again. This is on my brothers civic that did the same setup as me. 12.3:1 compression, B16 head, LS crank, GS-R block, typeR intake manifold, Mugen (authentic) header, and 2.25 exhaust. Any ideas where I'm going wrong here? I'm really planning on going back to my TODA Spec Bs

 

Well its really hard to say. I would honestly say it could have a little todo with flow. I know that a mugen header is a good header for lower displacement and a little less demanding builds but these tri-y "hytech" headers just seem to out perform because of design. Also if it was possible to try a "Hytech" style header with a 2.5" exhaust i think you could benefit from it very well. @ the collector on my header its 2.5'' and the exhaust is 2.5'' from one end to the other(besides tip). IDK its works for me maybe you could try it?