I've been trying to search if there is a thread for posting cages members have built and haven't came across one. Sorry if there is one and if so this can be deleted.

I'm gonna be starting a cage soon once I figure out what dimensions I'm gonna be doing so it is safe. My welds are all strong and dependable so that won't be an issue.

Does anyone have pics of cages they built?

 

in for this too. i was about to post this up a few days ago. ive seen a thread on here with pics before, but i couldnt find it either. post up the pics.

 

get a nhra rulebook if you dont already have one. not sure what type of cage you plan to build: drag racing, road racing?

 

Yeah, I need to look up the rules and guidelines. I think I read somewhere that they specifically want only mig or tig welds.

It's mostly daily driven so I have to check my clearances to see if it'd be safe for a full cage or not. I'm still learning about designing them but may end up doing something along the lines of this if my head would be too close for a full

 

Don't cage a daily.

 

oh yes. if its a DD, its def not safe.

 

It'll probably come down to no cage but that 8 point design would be more of a roll bar than a cage I'd suspect? I don't see much danger with that and it would still add comfort knowing I have something just in case

 

I built my cage according to FIA Group N regulations. They're clear, concise, and easy to understand. I don't intend on rallying the car, but I figure they're as well informed as anyone when it comes to cage design.

 

I made the mounting plates, bent the tubes, and did the notching/fitment and my accomplice RTernie did the welding. The cage was built to NHRA rules.

 

^^

 

What brand seat is that?

 

from everything i've read, and asked our local NHRA guy, those "D"bars are not legal

 

why is that?

 

For a street car, don't go more than a 6-point. You don't want bars above your head if you are ever in the car without a helmet.

You can still do quite a bit with 6 points. Do a basic 4 point with a diagonal in the main hoop, then run two bars forward to tie the roll bar into the front of the car. This help with chassis stiffness.

 

Still curious on the "d" bars. Why are they illegal? I could see where they'd be highly beneficial.

 

I think the d bars are fine either way. Its all about how you read the rule book i guess. I have mine going to 6x6 plates on each side of the exhaust tunnel thingy. It just got certed a few months back.

 

Those D-bars are legal. My car has been cert'd with them exactly like that.

 

ok then, when i asked, i was told they could not tie back into the main hoop, as they are 2 more frame/unibody contact points.

 

just got mine stickered about a month ago and they tie in to the main hoop. denbo did not mention anything about that.

 

well ****, that will make future cages a bit easier. I had talked to Pat C about it

 

not sure if that will make it any easier or not. But what do i know lol.

 

Not sure why everyone seems to think cages in street cars are such a bad thing. The 2mm of plastic covering the b pillar won't be less damaging to your head than the padded tube of a cage.

I'm curious why you hooked the door bars like that. As it stands now they won't do much of anything, in terms of safety or chassis stiffening.

 

they are 100% legal... the d-bars may be welded to the floor/tunnel via 6x6 plates of to the new required crossmember.

here's the rule... this is from the NHRA's rule change preview from 2008 and from what i remember as i dont have the rulebook in front of me; it reads more or less the same.

After speaking with Bob Nixon (NHRA Northeast tech inspector) about this he said he while this is a new rule; all new cages require it and old cages will require it to recert. Depending on ur cert guy he might let you go without the crossmember installed this year. I was also told the crossmember can be welded to the main hoop itself; i personally prefer this method but the rules do state that it needs to be welded to the rocker/sill area. In the cages that I or any of the guys at the shop build we reinforce the mainhoop/crossmember so much that it would not make a differance as fae as structural rigidity. I can see that without that wording that it may become a problem as people may try to install the crossmember somewhere in no-mans land high up when it needs to be as low and as close to the floor as possible. We normally notch out the exhaust tunnel as well; install the bar and then weld 1/8" plates from the crossmember to the tunnel to reinforce it that much more. A welded bar will be much stronger than a "floating" bar across the floor as I have seen many cages done.



Because they are dangerous. Ill knock my head into that 2mm of plastic anyday! The problem becomes when people dont put padding on the bars. The halo/a-pillar bars travel right along ur head; any type of accident which involves forces from the side will make you slam your head and into the bar and more than likely crack it open. Iv knocked my head into enough tubing building these things that i know i would never want to hit it in an accident; it hurts! plastic/padding doesnt! (comparitively speaking)

If you'd like to see some cages check them out on my website! go in to the fabrication gallery and click on cages or you can do a search for posts iv made with differant cages.

 

'cause they look cool!

 

i do them the same way... if somebody is concerned about stiffness and safety... start w a cage from the getgo... a rollbar really doesnt do much in comparison