first d16 build
Hello, Im building myself a turbo 89 crx si with the d16a6 !!!Monster!!! : D, Here is my list, I would like to get all info on this build and anything I need to know or improve/add. Im looking for around 450-500+whp around 25psi (constantly editing this list...lol)
a6 head:
Supertech valve spring and retainer kit
Supertech Std size valves
Racetep oem cam re-grind
duration: 260 int, 268 exh
duration @ .050": 220 int, 216 exh
gross lift: 455 int, 430 exh
Port match head+IM+exh mani
AEM tru time cam gear
MPFI oem intake manifold
oem throttle body
ARP head studs
y8 cometic head gasket(.030" thickness)
oem gasket kit
a6 block:
Eagle H-beam rods
76mm Darton MID sleeves
76mm JE pistons 8.8:1 C/R
Total Seal Ring(just the top ring)
OEM main and rod bearings
Balanced/micropolished crank
Port OEM Oil Pump
AEM tru-power pulley kit
Gates racing timing belt
turbo:
GT3582 turbocharger
AEM tru Boost Guage-Type Controller
HKS SMF Air Filter
2.5" intercooler piping
27x6x2.5" intercooler
LoveFab SST turbo manifold(non A/C)
50mm Tial BOV
CXracing 3 row racing radiator
44mm wastegate
3" downpipe
Oil cooler kit
Oil catch can
electricals:
AEM plug&play EMS
AEM 3 Bar MAP Sensor(for ems)
MSD 8.5mm plug wires
MSD 6A ignition control
stock a6 harness
AEM Air/fuel ratio guage
Equus Oil temp guage
Equus 8200 Gauge kit(water temp, volts, oil psi)
Autometer CF 10k rpm tach
HKS M-Series Spark Plugs (heat range: 7)
fuel:
Walbro in-tank 255lph pump
RC PnH 1000cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
AEM Fuel Filter
Si 5-Speed Trans:
ACT F1 Stage 3 Clutch Kit w/ 6 puck srung disk
ACT ProLite Flywheel 8.4 lbs
mfactory LSD
Driveshaft Shop lvl 2.9 axles
and thats all i have so far, i have not started this build yet, i want to get all the info i can on this b4 i start. And plz fill me in on nething i may have missed. thx for your help ;-)
a6 head:
Supertech valve spring and retainer kit
Supertech Std size valves
Racetep oem cam re-grind
duration: 260 int, 268 exh
duration @ .050": 220 int, 216 exh
gross lift: 455 int, 430 exh
Port match head+IM+exh mani
AEM tru time cam gear
MPFI oem intake manifold
oem throttle body
ARP head studs
y8 cometic head gasket(.030" thickness)
oem gasket kit
a6 block:
Eagle H-beam rods
76mm Darton MID sleeves
76mm JE pistons 8.8:1 C/R
Total Seal Ring(just the top ring)
OEM main and rod bearings
Balanced/micropolished crank
Port OEM Oil Pump
AEM tru-power pulley kit
Gates racing timing belt
turbo:
GT3582 turbocharger
AEM tru Boost Guage-Type Controller
HKS SMF Air Filter
2.5" intercooler piping
27x6x2.5" intercooler
LoveFab SST turbo manifold(non A/C)
50mm Tial BOV
CXracing 3 row racing radiator
44mm wastegate
3" downpipe
Oil cooler kit
Oil catch can
electricals:
AEM plug&play EMS
AEM 3 Bar MAP Sensor(for ems)
MSD 8.5mm plug wires
MSD 6A ignition control
stock a6 harness
AEM Air/fuel ratio guage
Equus Oil temp guage
Equus 8200 Gauge kit(water temp, volts, oil psi)
Autometer CF 10k rpm tach
HKS M-Series Spark Plugs (heat range: 7)
fuel:
Walbro in-tank 255lph pump
RC PnH 1000cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
AEM FPR
AEM Fuel Filter
Si 5-Speed Trans:
ACT F1 Stage 3 Clutch Kit w/ 6 puck srung disk
ACT ProLite Flywheel 8.4 lbs
mfactory LSD
Driveshaft Shop lvl 2.9 axles
and thats all i have so far, i have not started this build yet, i want to get all the info i can on this b4 i start. And plz fill me in on nething i may have missed. thx for your help ;-)
Last edited by d16a6biuld; Oct 31, 2009 at 10:18 AM.
OP, a few suggestions/criticism:
Get a better turbo mani, it looks like you are cheaping out on the critical parts of a turbo setup. $200 turbo mani will more than likely not last long, esp for the goals you are trying to achieve.
Ditch the cx racing radiator, at 400-500 whp, you will need a good radiator such as a C&R, Koyo, Fluidyne, etc, I have one of these radiators and it's beginning to pumpkin @ 250whp b16 because of the heat.
Also running 400-500 whp on stock sleeves is DEF pushing it on a D series. I would ditch the block guard and just sleeve it to be on the safe side.
Also a block guard will not help you much if you run eagle/vitara setup as the blockguard protects the top of the sleeve, but running the eagle rods, it makes it so the pistons don't even reach the top of the cylinder where the blockguard protects. This is why the Vitara pistons make such low compression because the piston does not come all the way to the top of the cylinder wall.
66mm throttle body(i would like individuals if you know of any) I am not 100% sure what you mean by this, but as I take it, do you mean you want ITB's? If so, it is not possible on a boosted setup. Well let me rephrase that, it's do-able but I think it would just complicate things.
Use an OEM headgasket, for some reason people have issues with cometics, which I don't know if it is installer error. So something to think about.
Any particular reason why you plan on running AEM EMS? eCtune or Hondata will do just fine for what you need.
With the 750cc injectors, you will get between 450-475whp roughly, you may want to think about doing 1000's just to give you some breathing room. You don't want to be running your injectors at 100% duty cycle all the time.
The 4" downpipe and 3" intercooler might be to much for the small space you have to work with, unless you have a very good fabrication that can squeeze it all in there for you.
As for the 38mm wastegate you might want to start off with a 44mm as the 44mm will be able to control that much pressure much better than a 38mm as you might get bad boost creep because the 38mm might be a little small.
I think that's about it. Don't take this as hate, just constructive criticism.
Good luck with your build!
Get a better turbo mani, it looks like you are cheaping out on the critical parts of a turbo setup. $200 turbo mani will more than likely not last long, esp for the goals you are trying to achieve.
Ditch the cx racing radiator, at 400-500 whp, you will need a good radiator such as a C&R, Koyo, Fluidyne, etc, I have one of these radiators and it's beginning to pumpkin @ 250whp b16 because of the heat.
Also running 400-500 whp on stock sleeves is DEF pushing it on a D series. I would ditch the block guard and just sleeve it to be on the safe side.
Also a block guard will not help you much if you run eagle/vitara setup as the blockguard protects the top of the sleeve, but running the eagle rods, it makes it so the pistons don't even reach the top of the cylinder where the blockguard protects. This is why the Vitara pistons make such low compression because the piston does not come all the way to the top of the cylinder wall.
66mm throttle body(i would like individuals if you know of any) I am not 100% sure what you mean by this, but as I take it, do you mean you want ITB's? If so, it is not possible on a boosted setup. Well let me rephrase that, it's do-able but I think it would just complicate things.
Use an OEM headgasket, for some reason people have issues with cometics, which I don't know if it is installer error. So something to think about.
Any particular reason why you plan on running AEM EMS? eCtune or Hondata will do just fine for what you need.
With the 750cc injectors, you will get between 450-475whp roughly, you may want to think about doing 1000's just to give you some breathing room. You don't want to be running your injectors at 100% duty cycle all the time.
The 4" downpipe and 3" intercooler might be to much for the small space you have to work with, unless you have a very good fabrication that can squeeze it all in there for you.
As for the 38mm wastegate you might want to start off with a 44mm as the 44mm will be able to control that much pressure much better than a 38mm as you might get bad boost creep because the 38mm might be a little small.
I think that's about it. Don't take this as hate, just constructive criticism.
Good luck with your build!
I understand your critasizm, its constructive and I thank you. At this time my cash flow exceeds my knowledge and I am here to learn all I can so I buy the right parts the first time. The AEM EMS looked like the right choice from what I have read and is a direct plug in to the D16a6 harness. If I went with Hondata would'nt I have to upgrade to OBD1 harness? More constructive critisizm is welcome members.....
Going to OBD1 would open up the tuning options. You'd get a much better tune out of OBD1 than OBD0. Most shops don't even touch OBD0 anymore. But as far as having to change it i'm not sure.
Could some1 tell me what the difference is between obd0 and obd1 harness? I know that if i change to obd1 i would have to get the p28 ecu and a new harness but idk if I need to change anything on the engine like new connections and sensors.
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Are Darton MID Sleeves good sleeves? and since the vitara/eagle setup makes the pistons not reach the top of the sleeves, what if I i put the block guard 1/4" or so down in the block?
Darton MID sleeves are real good sleeves for that HP. It'll handle that and more. We use the MIDs for engines we've build making over 1000hp in B-series.
Most a customer has put on a D-series is about low 600s( I believe highest ever made is 750hp in a D ever)
Most a customer has put on a D-series is about low 600s( I believe highest ever made is 750hp in a D ever)
hey i have a ?... I been reading ppl with 350+whp d16's and there running dual inline walbro 255lph fuel pumps...do i need to run dual pumps? since im lookin for 400-500whp? or will 1 be fine?
hey i ran across this manifold and it looks really nice, let me no what ya'll think... I think this will be a good choice over the $200 mani : )
http://lovefab.net/?page_id=206
http://lovefab.net/?page_id=206
heres some obx itbs for the d16, i was thinking about building a custom IM around these so i could turbo it...what do you think...i havent found ne1 who bought these yet and i would like some feedback on them...
http://www.amazon.com/OBX-Individual.../dp/B002H67NL4
and i also found some kinsler itbs but they are pretty exp., but if the obx's are **** than i'll have to go with these if i use itbs...
http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?...roducts_id=254
http://www.amazon.com/OBX-Individual.../dp/B002H67NL4
and i also found some kinsler itbs but they are pretty exp., but if the obx's are **** than i'll have to go with these if i use itbs...
http://bisimoto.net/store/index.php?...roducts_id=254
another thing.... I just remembered I need some really good CV transaxles and I cant seem to find ne over 475hp rating, will tht be good enough? its pretty close but idk, if I make 500whp or alil more will they still hold up?....plz post a link, I really appreciate it
here are the level 2.9 475hp rated axles:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...ivetrain/Axles
here are the level 2.9 475hp rated axles:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...ivetrain/Axles
Last edited by d16a6biuld; Oct 7, 2009 at 07:15 PM.
This is a !MUST KNOW! for me and my build.....since im getting peak and hold fuel injectors, will the AEM EMS run them? cuz i think the stock injectors are saturated....and if it wont run them, i ran across this aem PnH driver module...i need to know if i need this module or not....thx for your help
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=83
http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=83
Last edited by d16a6biuld; Oct 16, 2009 at 03:25 AM.
We are an authorized Darton sleeve retailer if you need the sleeves.
As far as the no flange. Its a replacement type sleeve. It installs a new iron ductile sleeve but it doesnt have the thick Flange at the top.
The flange style is like this:
It just has a thicker area on the top part of the sleeve. There are different flange thickness so the Darton may not necessarily look like this.

The dry no flange will look almost like a regular OEM block. The only difference is that it'll have a new sleeve lining.
This is the Darton Modular Integrated Deck(MID)
As far as the no flange. Its a replacement type sleeve. It installs a new iron ductile sleeve but it doesnt have the thick Flange at the top.
The flange style is like this:
It just has a thicker area on the top part of the sleeve. There are different flange thickness so the Darton may not necessarily look like this.

The dry no flange will look almost like a regular OEM block. The only difference is that it'll have a new sleeve lining.
This is the Darton Modular Integrated Deck(MID)
acually i was going to go with 76mm for the sleeves/pistons, then when i rebuild it again i'll go to 77 or 78mm. whats the biggest bore i can go with mid sleeves? and the pistons im thinking of going with JE but ive seen a few 500hp d16's with vitaras and they worked fine...maz69, i found 75 to 78mm darton mid's for $550...
Last edited by d16a6biuld; Oct 18, 2009 at 05:27 AM.
There are no cooling issues with the MID. We use them for daily and race setups all the time.
The MID for D16 is good for 78mm bore.
The Darton MID kits are about $525.00 and the install is about $780.00
The MID for D16 is good for 78mm bore.
The Darton MID kits are about $525.00 and the install is about $780.00


