ok so i've been having this problem with my single for a while now, first i'm gonna say i have new dizzy, spark plugs, and wires.i got the timing belt timed twice already also. so, i would be driving my car and it'll sputter A Lot, like it breaks up. if i'm parked or at a light it'll sputter while it idle's and sooner or later just cut off on its own. i have no idea whats wrong. occasionally it would red line at 3k but when i shift to 2nd it's fine. motor does have 174,xxx miles, but can anyone give me some ideas on what to look for. if not thanks anyways.

 

Any CEL codes?

Is the ignition timing set to spec?

 

x2, have you also checked your FPR or fuel system?

 

ima hijack this!!

setting the ingition timing looks easy on the illustration because its off car, in real life there is no way to point the gun to the crank shaft pulley, is it from the top looking down? i removed the wheel and cover and cant point it to the mark!.

sorry dude again for hijacking this.

 

yes, from the top down. from right behind the engine mount. align with timing tab (little triangle thingie below the water pump hump on timing cover)

 

i went to 2 shops for timing. it ran better but still sputtered. i also changed my fuel filter and fuel pump. and my check engine light isn't on either, it works b/c thats how i knew i needed a dizzy.

 

The two shops checked/adjusted the mechanical timing (timing belt) but are you sure that they also checked/adjusted the ignition timing as described in the diagram?

Given that the mechanical timing had been off, has anyone compression tested the cylinders?

 

valves may be bent? check compression.

 

Most likely, your sparky wires are ****ed up. D16Z6 has a funky setup. The spots on the engine are as follows from left to right (looking at the engine from the front of the car)

*...4-3-2-1...*

The rotation of the following setup goes CLOCKWISE.

1-3-4-2. Having just 1 off will produce this sputtering low end. Start off at the H on the dizzy cap with 1. Then follow it by 3-4-2 CLOCKWISE. If it sputters and nonsense, no need to pay for a timing job. Just advance the wires CLOCKWISE till it runs perfect.

The reason that works (right Above this) is that the crank shaft is attached to the dizzy. If the crank is out of spec say 90degree, then putting the sparky wires -90degrees fixes it back to 0 degrees. Its hard to think about, but its really a simple concept.

When I did mine, my buddy yanked all the wires off without paying attention to which went where because he was in a hurry (I bought my new dizzy from him, that came off a d15, and when he got there, he realized that the ****er had a different bolt pattern. No worry though, we gutted it and put the inside parts into mine. worked like a charm). We ended up trying his B16 wiring which was (4-3-1-2). That caused the engine to not even start. We then (without the need for timing the belt) rotated the wires clockwise 1 spot. This ended up being the right spot for my specific timing, BUT, it sputtered really bad. When you rev'ed, it sounded really weird. Know my car, I knew it was wrong. I went to the store and got my Haynes manual. It had the info I stated above.

Hope this helps.

 

i know what your talking about. my wires are on correct. and my spark plugs are good too i just checked with my boy today

 

i doubt they compression tested the cylinders, another one of my friends is saying there might be something wrong with my ecu, i told him i doubt it but he said try another ecu just to see. also changed fuel injectors from my friends single and we cleaned them up a little and it still miss fires, i think miss fire is a better word for my situation.

 

Low cylinder compression would have symptoms of misfire. It's pretty easy to do compression tests.

 

so a compression test is a possibility for this to be fixed ?

 

A compression test is a diagnostic test not a fix. Compression measurements possibly could guide you to a fix by revealing the underlying cause of your engine problem.

Click here.

 

Oh ok I understand now. I say it's time for another motor. I'll try swaping the ecu, if not i'm not sure what I'm gonna do with the car it's kinda unreliable.

 

before you get a new motor do a compression check! have you? we wanna see the numbers!

 

haven't yet, i have to wait till i have free time to do a compression test. if and when i do get a compression test done i will post the numbers up with out a doubt.

 

tradin the car
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/honda-...upe-trade.html

 

well here's what my cars check engine light codes gave me.
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 16 Fuel Injector

so i bought an ls lol

 

Yeah, I wouldn't go through all of that either. Fuel pump + injectors and maybe injecter harness (zomg), new rad, hoses and other parts, crank pos is a bitch lol.

nice, I got a check engine with my baby. For the longest time it never came on and then one day about a year ago it poped on for about 10 seconds while my clutch was starting to show "wear" by slipping. After that 10 seconds it never showed it's face again.

I recently had to replace the distributor and guess what, the mother ****er comes on stead all day long.

I think its my fuel pump, because I replaced it with an aftermarket without tuning (lol) but I have a huge intake (whale *****) so i figured it would work it self out (not ALL the way, but enough that nothing MAJOR would go wrong) and now I'm about to buy a code reader so I can find out why the **** it wants to put that yellow engine in my face.

I notice it pops on at different times. If I drive sane, then it wont come on until I get down the road a bit. If I drive like a dick, as soon as I pop over 4500rmp in second gear it will come on. But meh, It will be fixed w/e it is, since I have some money saved.

cheers m8. nice to hear you got your **** fixed :D

 

yeah man defiantly didn't want to do all of that. but lol, "whale *****" intake...but hopefully ur situation work out for the better man..