So i figured its the right time to upgrade some of the little things that sometimes goes un-noticed. So Im gonna be getting the Energy Suspension Hyper-Flex System...it includes the following:

- F/R Cntl.Arm Bush.
- F/R Shock Bush
- F/R Swybr.Bush
- F/R Coil Spr.Iso.
- R Trail. Arm Bush
- Trans.Shifter Stab.Bush.
- Rack/Pin.Bush.
- F Ball Jt./Tie Rod Bt





Will I need any special tools to perform this job? For instance, I know on a ///M3 you have to have a certain tool to remove some of the bushings. I dont want to get everything off and ready to replace and not have the tool...

im really excited to upgrade these parts because everything has gotten kinda squeaky with the suspension...hopefully some new stuff takes it away as well as tightens it up a bit...

 

I'll be doing the same kit. Bought myself a cheap press from harbor fright. (spelling intentional)

 

The LCA inner bushings are the tough ones to get out. They should be pressed out but I've done them on the car a couple times without specialty tools. It takes about an hour or so each with a drill, hammer, punches and chisels or much less with an air chisel & cutter bit.

 

im going to be changing them at my buddies shop, so he has a large and extensive tool selection...i know its is going to be quite time consuming, but i think well have the right tools for the job.....that is as long as no specific special tool is required...

which it doesnt seem like there is...

 

I've installed a full set of es poly bushings in my car, I mean EVERYTHING. It's quite time consuming, doing it yourself will save you money. I did mine with..
-basic tools (sockets, wrenches, breaker bar, etc)
-sawzall
- bench vise
- hammer
- mapp gas soldering torch

it's pretty straightforward..
1) remove part from car (don't waste time trying to get the bushings in/out while the part is still on the car, just take it off)
2) use torch to melt rubber and pound inner sleeve of oem bushing out (while held in a bench vise)
3) use sawzall to cut out old rubber in oem bushing (this leaves the oem outer sleeve)
4) use sawzall to cut a slit through the outer oem sleeve (like a relief cut, so the sleeve gets loose and you can pound it out more easily)
5) hammer/socket of appropriate size to pound out oem outer sleeve
6) lube hole, use bench vise to press in new polys
7) slide inner sleeve back in (from new poly kit)

if you have any questions, pm me. like I said, it's all straightforward stuff... pita though, good luck

 

in other words
specialty tools? not really. bench vise, torch. ***** of steel.

 

many people recommend not installing the rear trailing arm bushing because it binds and makes there rear end a lil squirly, i decided to use oem honda, and some people use hardrace or mugen rear lower control arm bushings.

 

I've had my trailing arm poly bushings in for a few days now and initial reaction..
-damn I feel bumps in my *** more
-the back end of the car actually follows the front, instead of jumping around doing it's own thing
-now I need good suspension, because the bumps hurt more at low speed
-whilst hauling *** my car floats over potholes when it used to bounce off the ground

i haven't autoxed it yet so I can't testify on the binding argument, but it's no big deal as far as I can tell at this point.

but if the op bought the masterset, he's not getting trailing arm bushings included point is moot.

 

it would only bind if you don't preload the bushings.

to preload them all you need to do is simulate natural road height with a jack and then screw in the bolts

 

the one that i got def says that the Trailing Arm Bushing is included....

look at list of parts i copied right off of the item description and website....

 

you cant preload the ES RTA because the pin is floating. it binds not because of preload/rotation, but the excesive restriction of flex about that axis is what causes the binding in other joints. if you draw or think of a model in you head of a honda rear suspension, you will see that the rear wheel has to follow two arcs and with the stiffer bushing there is excessive stress on the other bushings as they are twisted in ways they wernt originally intended. and it only gets worse as the grease that was applied when they were installed squeezes out...

 

What exactly is binding? its sounds like if the bushing flexed in the wrong direction or maybe compressed???? idk...but it doesnt sound good....

if its not the RTA that is binding, then what is? and what will be the result of sed "binding" ??




heres a pic i found of the front suspension and points where new joints will be installed....

 

the rear is a trailing arm system, if there isnt flex in the main bushing, it will basically try to make the wheel follow just one arc when what it wants to do is follow 2 or more arx because of the design of the system, when it is tight light that it will put more stress on the other bushings, most likly the LCA bushings, but also the toe link because it is fighting against the arc they are trying to make the wheel follow.

 

also if hes doing them at a buddies shop and has access to an alignment drive on lift , that is the place to tighten everything down.....makes it SOOO much easier