I have a '90 accord F22a4 that cranks but doesn't start after I replaced the head gasket.

I checked the timing belt... I had lost the timing marks, but as I understand it as long as both the arrow on the camshaft and crank sprocket are pointing up, it is ok (and I double checked TDC with a screwdriver in the #1 spark plug hole).

I checked for spark by taking out a plug and grounding it while cranking. It was sparking.

I checked for fuel pressure at the rail by disconnecting the return line and cranking. Fuel was there.

The distributor had gotten wet while it was off the engine, so I was worried about the CRANK/TDC and CYL sensors. I checked the resistances on the connector in accordance with my Haynes and that checked out ok.

Next I checked the voltage to the coolant sensor. My Haynes says that it should be getting a supply of 5V KOEO. It was only getting .53V. Not sure if that matters. The resistance across the sensor itself is OK.

I checked the voltage at the injector connectors with KOEO. I was actually getting about 10V to both sides. Not sure that that means. The resistances in the resistor pack were OK.

Next I tried to test the MAP sensor. The Haynes says that should also have a supply voltage of 5V. I was getting almost 10V here too.

I am wondering if the PCM is fried. I accidentally grounded both the battery and alternator while removing the head (I grounded the alternator when the wire I unclipped from it hit the engine). I replaced the blown battery fuse.

 

i would chk all the fuses ,, ( ecu fuse ) ,, also chk to make sure that you connected the ECU ground wire at the t-stat

 

All the fuses are good with the exception of the condenser fan. I did reconnect that ground, but I haven't checked it. Thanks for reminding me of that.

Is there any way to tell if the injectors are actually working? I had another car where I could take off a spark plug and watch the mixture shooting up while cranking. I tried that here but I don't think I could really see anything. I'm not sure how safe it would be to remove the injectors and rail together and crank the engine.

 

The t-stat ground has continuity. I can't think of what else to do.

Edit: I found another ECU fuse in the under dash fuse box, that was good too.

 

Ok, you checked electrical things, and you also checked for fuel and spark, but we're missing the third item on this love triangle. You need spark, fuel and compression for the engine to start and continue to run.
Use a compression gauge, remove one spark plug and disconnect the distributor plug to the harness, then... install the gauge and turn the key on and crank it for a few seconds (never more than 10 seconds).

 

dont forget to check your main relay.....

 

I checked for compression, it seems ok.

I took out the main relay to test in accordance with these instructions:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...nrelay_tst.htm

But my relay doesn't have a #4 terminal. It has everything except that. Does anyone know the correct procedure for mine?

Thanks.

 

Ok, I started the car. After realizing I no longer had spark, I got a new distributor and the car started.

But I think the timing belt if off a tooth. I can hear what I think are the valves hitting the pistons. Like I mentioned in the first post, I set cam sprocket so the "up" was facing up as close as I could get it. I set the bottom end to TDC on #1 with a screwdriver. Also, when you give it gas, it takes a long time for the revs to come down. Is there something I did wrong?

Thanks.