this is a eazy ?
ok i got most of my parts for my obd1 swap all i need is my ECU jumper ...so here the thing can i install the obd1 dizzy and my vtec head and obd1 INJECTOR and run my stock ecu tell i get my jumper cause jhp is outof stock of jumper ?
take it out, cut off the plug, and solder all the **** together.. you left out a few steps there, which is precisely why i say it isn't worth it when obd0 injectors are plug and play, no soldering necessary.
your question makes no sense. No one said you have to, but It makes a lot more sense if you just leave the stock wiring alone. for obd1 and 2, you can't use the resistor box, which is my point. Why waste time removing the resistor box when you already have injectors that work just fine with it still in.
Originally Posted by sh!ft
who said you had to run a resistor box?
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Last edited by BLU CIVIC; Sep 19, 2009 at 06:48 AM.
you will have enough wiring to deal with for vtec and the 4 wire o2, and those things are necessary wiring modifications.
you can always wire up the obd1 style injectors later.
If you look at high horsepower applications they go with the resistor box.
There is a limit where high impedance injectors don't perform as well.
dont do something that you are not comfortable with. if you are unsure of going with obd1 injectors and removing the resistor box, then just keep it the way it is with obd0 injectors and resistor box. i kept mine in my lsv and no problems for the last 5 years.
haha your right, i got that bass ackwards. for some reason i was thinking it was the other way round. saturated injectors do have a slower response time and thusly do not perform as well when they are made to output higher cc's/lb's/hr.
I dont like OBD0 injectors just cause the resistor box makes the bay look cluttered. If your not trying to make a lot of power and want a cleaner bay without extending the injector wires, then get OBD1 injectors.
Thats just my $.02 worth.
Thats just my $.02 worth.
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