reusing ARP head studs in GSR
you should be able to use them as many time as you like. arp bolts and studs are made to stretch as much as they are going to the first time they are torqued. after that they should not stretch anymore, hence, use them as long as you like. or until you screw them up!
I re-used mine about 8 times, then one of them snapped off (in the block) and ruined my season.
My machinist sent the block to one of his friends who used a EDM and a hex shaped carbon to remove the SOB!....after I tore it down again.
I believe GSR studs are bigger than my Z6, maybe you'll get a couple more licks before you get to the center of that tootsie pop, IDK.
Detonating will definetly decrease the life of the stud and BTW, ARP or anything else will stretch between the threads every time you torque them.
Not saying you can't re-use them, I will not use them anymore than twice now and if I detonate on them....round file, they are too cheap to go thru all the BS of getting one removed after it breaks.
My machinist sent the block to one of his friends who used a EDM and a hex shaped carbon to remove the SOB!....after I tore it down again.
I believe GSR studs are bigger than my Z6, maybe you'll get a couple more licks before you get to the center of that tootsie pop, IDK.
Detonating will definetly decrease the life of the stud and BTW, ARP or anything else will stretch between the threads every time you torque them.
Not saying you can't re-use them, I will not use them anymore than twice now and if I detonate on them....round file, they are too cheap to go thru all the BS of getting one removed after it breaks.
well iv taken off the head 2x now just from bad head gaskets and rings(my first build)
so well try 1 more time. your info helps. i wont use them too much
so well try 1 more time. your info helps. i wont use them too much
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I forgot to mention a good way to tell when your studs are reaching the end of their useful life is by how easy they go into the block.
Some of the studs have a hex in them for a allen some require tighteninmg two nuts against eachother, either way they should go in with minimal effort(not much more than what you can apply with your fingers), once they start giving you a fight it is a good indication they are stretched between the threads and they should be tossed.
Some of the studs have a hex in them for a allen some require tighteninmg two nuts against eachother, either way they should go in with minimal effort(not much more than what you can apply with your fingers), once they start giving you a fight it is a good indication they are stretched between the threads and they should be tossed.
I've been going 70ft lb. Yours are bigger though because you got a real motor. 80 is good.
first thing my machinist did when I brought him that s%$tblizzard is try to install one that I brought with so he knew what was in there, I got the "look" after that. I'm fortunate that I've known him for a long time, the block would of been toast if he wasn't willing to help me there is no way that stud would of come out with a drill in a mill(lol)without messing up the threads.
first thing my machinist did when I brought him that s%$tblizzard is try to install one that I brought with so he knew what was in there, I got the "look" after that. I'm fortunate that I've known him for a long time, the block would of been toast if he wasn't willing to help me there is no way that stud would of come out with a drill in a mill(lol)without messing up the threads.
You are using the lube to get accurate torque numbers. The "binding" in the threads may be different from hole to hole without the lube. In theory the lube makes it the same. The torque number ARP gives you (not that anyone follows it) is based on the use of the moly lube.
I torque my Eclipse head to anywhere from 95lbs to 115lbs depending on application.
MB
I torque my Eclipse head to anywhere from 95lbs to 115lbs depending on application.
MB
Yeah, everyone with a shop preaches that you gotta use ARP lube. They more than likely see it's advantages because of the amount of engines they build. In other words shops are able to see consistency in torque specs because of their work load volume.
Guys building engines in their own garages once or twice a year don't get that experience, so like myself many of us use anything thats black and says moly on it.
Probably not good, my machinist says it's not super critical for my Honda motor(He's a competition licensed rail owner, so there is some sarcasm there), but I need to adjust my torque spec accordingly to the type of lube I use.
Anyway nothing last forever and I would definetly use only ARP assembly lube on the first couple installs, but once you put them in a couple times it's a friggin shot in the dark anyway as far accurate clamping force goes.
Guys building engines in their own garages once or twice a year don't get that experience, so like myself many of us use anything thats black and says moly on it.
Probably not good, my machinist says it's not super critical for my Honda motor(He's a competition licensed rail owner, so there is some sarcasm there), but I need to adjust my torque spec accordingly to the type of lube I use.
Anyway nothing last forever and I would definetly use only ARP assembly lube on the first couple installs, but once you put them in a couple times it's a friggin shot in the dark anyway as far accurate clamping force goes.
MB
I am not really sure how many times my ARP's have been reused. I know atleast 4-5 times and they still hold fine. Last time I replaced a headgasket I didnt have any moly lube to install the studs with and I used something I found in the shop to get it done pretty quick. I think I have actually used some of my brothers Suzuki oil that he was using to put into his 4wheeler to coat the threads when I screwed them down into the block. Got like 80-85ft lbs on them I think and they have been in the engine for some time now with no problems what so ever. This is in a bone stock B18C that makes around 400whp..............
I have seen some rather important bolts on military aircraft get reused several times. I figured that if those bolts can handle the type of activity a set of ARP headstuds can as well.
I have seen some rather important bolts on military aircraft get reused several times. I figured that if those bolts can handle the type of activity a set of ARP headstuds can as well.
well besides ARP assembly lube you can also use a straight 30w oil (ie: not 10w30) but you will want to torque to 90' lbs. ARP lube is the best but theres always another option.
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