Been trying to get my abs working because the michigan winter will be hear soon!, bought the car 2 years ago and the abs wasnt working, I pulled a (1-2 The hydraulic pump motor) code. Seems like my pump motor works fine. when I 1st start my car I hear that abs motor buzz for approximately 3-5 seconds, and my abs light comes on after about 3-5 minutes of driving. tried bleeding, went thru honda tech manual flow charts and think i ended at bad abs computer or motor, swapped a used abs computer and no difference, but it seems that my pump works though???? need my ABS for the upcoming Michigan winter cause last year sucked! lol can anyone shed some light on the situation??? thanks!!!!!

 

did you check the sensors that run to the cv axels? thats what my problem was and im from minnesota but no point in driving it in the winter so i decided to take it out u can probly get them at the local junkyard for five dollars and they unclip right from the abs computer

 

I had a 1-8 code on mine (high pressure leak) and found two Honda Campaigns that stated the accumulator o-ring is prone to leaking and to re-torque the six plugs on the body (also prone to leak). I replaced the motor o-ring as well while I had the unit out. It may only be the o-ring on the motor.

 

aye ive had the same problem, mine used to buzz like yours and i neglected it and it no longer makes that noise, lights stays on now and I checked the code and same thing high pressure leak, code 18. I want to find a solution, keep me updated

 

1-8 code is guaranteed to be fixed by the accumulator o-ring, i did motor o-ring and retorque just because I had it out of the car. Bled it and the light has not come on since.

 

interesting, so it is the o-ring, after lots of researching and hearing people's opinions, some have mentioned that but ive never heard a success story from that abs light coming on so your a first lol its been a while since ive looked into this, can you give a quick diy guide and/pictures? i forgot which one is the accumulator too, im sure O.P has the same issue, its the same one I had

 

sorry no pics available but I found the campaigns on this forum. Let me check tonight on the copies I made for the actual campaign numbers. I double checked these with a Honda Mechanic friend of mine who confirmed on most 1-8 codes are either the accumulator o-ring or the re-torque. maybe I was just lucky but the amount of gunk under my accululator indicated a leak. The plugs and motor were done just because I had the unit out...no signs of a leak.


btw...the campaigns have instructions and diagrams and are real easy to follow. The only "pita" is getting the unit out of the car.

 

oh right on, so you actually have to take the whole unit out? because the o-ring is at the bottom of the accumulator right? and if it just needs retorque, are you referring on retorquing the accumulator? thanks man

 

the two 10mm nuts on the accumulator have a torque spec but the retorque refers to six specific plugs on the bottom and side of the unit. I think they are for some internal valves/solenoids or something. Anyway on some units they loosen over time so you pop them out, clean the threads, reapply some brake fluid and retorque...

and yes the whole unit comes out...not to terrible but a little work.

 

ok, I get it, soo its basically, taking out bolts/plugs cleaning them and retorquing them. dangg pics would help at this point lol im wondering what the plugs look like because the other two 10mm nuts on the underside seem easy enough.

 

thanks for the response but Im pretty sure that would come up with a different code, like 4-1 or 4-2 (speed sensor circuit)

 

Since I dont have a 1-8 high pressure accumalator code I dont think any of this applies to my problem, anyone have any insight on my issue? thanks!!

 

 

I will try an scan in the bulletin from Honda by this weekend as it has very precise instructions with diagrams. send me an email address so I can gwet them to you. Worse case it will be early next week....have to work all weekend.