So after boosting my b16b with a little 18g GReddy kit, i decided to sell it all off and go bigger.

New motor setup

Head:
GSR Head PnP by Alainz
97 ITR Cams
REV Retainers
REV Dual Valve Springs
REV Flat valves
Edelbrock Victor X Mani
Holley 68mm tb
ARP Headstuds

Block:
LS block
JE 9.1:1 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Some crank work
ACL Rod, Main, Thrust bearings

Turbo Kit:
Garrett T31/T04S Stage 5 (4 in. housing, .70 a/r in, .68 a/r out)
Spoolin Performance Ramhorn Manifold
Spoolin Performance 3" Downpipe
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Tial 50mm Blow off valve
RC 750cc Injectors
Spearco 700hp Intercooler

My main question is would it be better to sell the ITR cams and get some turbo cams or just leave it as it is. Also if you have any input on the build please voice them. Or any parts that i should change out for better ones

 

For your turbocharger, did you mean T61/T04S Stage 5? T31 describes the 4 bolt exhaust housing.

Keep your ITR cams. I guess being in the East Bay, emissions is not a concern at all.
I would use a different injector than the RC750cc. Use Precision or the Bosch ID series.
Don't know what you mean by "crank work" like knife-edging or journal polishing, but..ok.

 

i bought the turbo off a buddy thinking it was a T67 but i then sent it out to Blaast Performance and they told me it was a T31 or something. The exhaust is a 4 bolt pattern.

why do you say go with the bosch or precision?

i believe the crank was micro-polished and balanced

emissions really arent a problem, if i get caught i get caught

 

RC750s specifically had a VERY LARGE Batch of the SLH (If I recall) injectors that had a very high failure rate and they issued a recall. ( I personally had several hundred sets that needed to be sent back and/or repaired when it was too late). They may have solved the issue with subsequent releases, but there are a lot out there new that may still cause an issue. The Bosch ID and Siemen Deka motoron (used by Precision) have a much more efficient and reliable spray pattern that would help you more. Even if you decide to stay RC, use another size (preferably larger) so that you can be sure you didn't get anything of the bad batch.

T31 is a 4 bolt exhaust pattern. Unfortunately due to some serious implications that occurred with a customer here on H-T (there's a whole thread on what happened) so unfortunately, I don't take BLAAST's word seriously. Find out when you get it back measure the actual WHEELS inside the housings by removing them, not just looking at numbers on housings. That won't do the job.

Boy. that is risky in the Bay... from what I understand now in Alameda county, if you're HORRIBLE w/ emissions, you're not only sent to the ref, but your car could be seized and impounded. Am I incorrect in this? Or am I thinking of street racing only? I mean... do whatever, but I was simply curious about the state statute.

 

The RC's are relatively new and have had there duty cycle tested so i should be okay there.

you wouldnt happen to have the link to that thread would you? I plan on removing the housings once i get it back to inspect the work they did. They're charging me $390 for a complete rebuild. Apparently when they took everything apart a lot of it was in bad shape so it needed some machining

I'll just put it this way, i'm a white boy and i rarely get pulled over and even if i do they dont ever ask me about modifications or anything. I had a cop pull me over for speeding and i had a loud *** muffler and he was on a bike so he could definetly hear how loud it was, didnt even say anything about it. I have a friend that helps me "smog" my car so i'm good there. I'm in contra costa county luckily.

 

The flow test may work NOW, but that doesn't mean it will last. Injectors just FAIL, they don't degrade in performance slowly over time

Here is the BLAAST thread I was referring to.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/beware-blaast-performance-turbo-rebuilding-2637210/

 

thanks, im a little weary on the rebuild there going to do. i'll just have to inspect everything once i get the turbo back from them

 

Go with a 70mm t.b, that head is gonna flow like a mo! should of kept the stock valves, itr cams are great turbo cams i say use em then search for other cams later if you want to increase hp,

 

one of my buddies built it so im not exactly sure what valves are in it, they may be stock specs but just aftermarket. I'll start looking for a 70mm tb, only reason i bought the holley one is because its blue lol.

i was thinking about selling the its and picking up some BC stage 2 turbo cams

 

anyone have any recommendations on a 70mm tb?

 

most " turbo cams" dont make much power because they rely on older technology. In the new age, we've seen all motor cams to do exceptionally well on turbo setups. as far as TB, stock would be just fine for a good while, you're not going to see any significant change/improvement in changing it. Save your money for something more important and worthwhile

 

^^^ Correct. Keep your ITRs , save that money you planned on for a bigger TB and get some better injectors and tuning, as I've noticed you have no engine management plans listed.

 

Thanks Phil, im trying to cover all the bases right now and just build it up before i drop it in. So i figured why now uprade everything while it's out. If i did want to get cams, what would be the ones i should look at?

Plan on running Crome until i can get an S300, getting tuned at RedZone

 

after talking with Phil a little bit today, decided to scrap the cam idea till later on. Still would like to get a good size throttle body tho

 

got my turbo back from rebuild and im starting to rethink my turbo decision being that i'll be DD'ing the car. Not quite sure what to do, maybe you guys can help. I think the turbo i have would be great for drag racing because its a peak power turbo, but it would be nice to have some midrange for daily driving. i still want to make atleast 400whp

 

bump for input