1994 Front Axle Replacement
So Changed my oil today and noticed axle grease all over my drivers' side wheel, seems like it started this week, look at the boot there's a definite tear. Had my buddy look and he said passenger side boot isn't looking much better...
So I'm wondering what are the best replacement Front Axles? Should I go OEM or Aftermarket?
Also there is a circular thing in the middle of the shaft looks like it leaks something? right below oil pan, my buddy wasn't sure if it came on the front axle or if it was something else?
Any ideas?
It's a 94 LS coupe w/LSVtec
Thanks!
So I'm wondering what are the best replacement Front Axles? Should I go OEM or Aftermarket?
Also there is a circular thing in the middle of the shaft looks like it leaks something? right below oil pan, my buddy wasn't sure if it came on the front axle or if it was something else?
Any ideas?
It's a 94 LS coupe w/LSVtec
Thanks!
Go with aftermaket, but buy the better axles, don't waste your time on the free life time replacement ones. To many horror stories about them. I have changed as many as 4 before I got a good one.
That rubber thing on the axle is nothing.
There must be a sticky here somewhere on how to change them. A lot of us have.
Quick list.
Break torque on the axle nuts first before you jack up the car and pull the wheels.
to remove the lower ball joint, hit the LCA with a 5lb hammer, hard. leave the nut on the ball joint threads in case you miss with the hammer.
After you have hit the LCA a few times try and pry the spindle up with a big screwdriver. It will pop to release but the weight makes it look like it hasn't moved.
You may want to get tranny axle seals too. They are different sizes.
Oh drain the tranny oil or jack one side up really high at a time.
Use grease and anti-sieze compound on the threads when you re-assemble.
Find a buddy who has done this before. It will make things much easier.
That rubber thing on the axle is nothing.
There must be a sticky here somewhere on how to change them. A lot of us have.
Quick list.
Break torque on the axle nuts first before you jack up the car and pull the wheels.
to remove the lower ball joint, hit the LCA with a 5lb hammer, hard. leave the nut on the ball joint threads in case you miss with the hammer.
After you have hit the LCA a few times try and pry the spindle up with a big screwdriver. It will pop to release but the weight makes it look like it hasn't moved.
You may want to get tranny axle seals too. They are different sizes.
Oh drain the tranny oil or jack one side up really high at a time.
Use grease and anti-sieze compound on the threads when you re-assemble.
Find a buddy who has done this before. It will make things much easier.
I requested a short story for a title.
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
but if you insist on aftermarket the only place i can think of is the driveshaftshop
Well it's not exactly stock making 183whp possibly more with recent bolt ons, but hardly a 300hp car hehe
Is there a particular brand? I don't mind spending the money if the product is worth it (except $700 for 400hp axles or something like that)
Thanks!
Is there a particular brand? I don't mind spending the money if the product is worth it (except $700 for 400hp axles or something like that)
Thanks!
OEM is worth every penny. That's all you need seriously unless you absolutely don't want oem or autozone. But if you do indeed want aftermarket axles, the driveshaft shop has "oe replacement" for $359.
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I just changed my axles a week ago or something like that. You should just bring your old ones in to autozone and get them redone, I think thats where they do it. But I bought the Autozone Duralast ones and now my **** vibrates under acceleration, I ****ing hate it.
I see, well it was recommended to me to just get OReillys' or Autozone ones, and my dad gets a discount there, but I don't want any issues obviously...
The first guy that replied said to avoid OEM...
The first guy that replied said to avoid OEM...
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