Best Brand clear coat
Hey guys i was wondering what kind or whats the best brand of clear coat for rims would be good...im trying to repaint my oem gsr blades back to their original colors....so i want the clear coat to be nice n shiny....
Thanks
Thanks
Yeah, if you're buying paint for them at an automotive store, then you can just get what they recommend for that particular line of paint. If you're going rattlecan, then it's probably less important exactly which brand.
o k thanks...well i think i might just go with the rustolem clear coat...what do you guys think....
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oem look = catalyzed clear (automotive clear, shot through a gun). What kind of paint are you using?? I'm asking because that should determine the type of clear you use.
not using any....im am just wetsanding it and then clean it with accetone n just clear coat...would that work....haha...cuz when i wet sand it it dosent have that polished look to it no more...how can i get the polised look back....i can post up some pictures 2morrow to show you....
Oh, I see...knowing that you aren't using paint is a pretty critical detail to that question
. That might work, but I haven't done it before...if it's not coming up polished, then you may need to go to a finer grit sandpaper. I usually go up to 1500 or 2000 before then using a polishing compound. However, I REALLY don't think clear is going to stick to it very well when it's that smooth. Maybe someone else can help you there, but I honestly am not sure that the factory wheels have clear on them.
. That might work, but I haven't done it before...if it's not coming up polished, then you may need to go to a finer grit sandpaper. I usually go up to 1500 or 2000 before then using a polishing compound. However, I REALLY don't think clear is going to stick to it very well when it's that smooth. Maybe someone else can help you there, but I honestly am not sure that the factory wheels have clear on them.
Oh, I see...knowing that you aren't using paint is a pretty critical detail to that question
. That might work, but I haven't done it before...if it's not coming up polished, then you may need to go to a finer grit sandpaper. I usually go up to 1500 or 2000 before then using a polishing compound. However, I REALLY don't think clear is going to stick to it very well when it's that smooth. Maybe someone else can help you there, but I honestly am not sure that the factory wheels have clear on them.
. That might work, but I haven't done it before...if it's not coming up polished, then you may need to go to a finer grit sandpaper. I usually go up to 1500 or 2000 before then using a polishing compound. However, I REALLY don't think clear is going to stick to it very well when it's that smooth. Maybe someone else can help you there, but I honestly am not sure that the factory wheels have clear on them.
No problem man,
It's pretty time consuming, just to warn you. Assuming you don't have any big dings or anything, I'd start with like 400 or 600, then use 800, 1000, 1200, 1500,2000 grits. If you don't have one or two of them, you can probably get away without, but just make sure you sand all the scratches from the previous grit before moving on. After that, use a terry cloth with the polish and just rub in circles until it turns black. Then just continue to polish until you're happy with it.
Just a heads up...some metals don't polish as well as others. I'm not sure if the OEM wheels will come up nicely or not, so I would search that before you start. Also, if it's polished that smoothly, I really don't think clear will stick to it. I would just do some research on this before you dive in. You may end up polishing it that way, or you might only have to polish with a few grits and then clear it. Basically, just do some research first...
It's pretty time consuming, just to warn you. Assuming you don't have any big dings or anything, I'd start with like 400 or 600, then use 800, 1000, 1200, 1500,2000 grits. If you don't have one or two of them, you can probably get away without, but just make sure you sand all the scratches from the previous grit before moving on. After that, use a terry cloth with the polish and just rub in circles until it turns black. Then just continue to polish until you're happy with it.
Just a heads up...some metals don't polish as well as others. I'm not sure if the OEM wheels will come up nicely or not, so I would search that before you start. Also, if it's polished that smoothly, I really don't think clear will stick to it. I would just do some research on this before you dive in. You may end up polishing it that way, or you might only have to polish with a few grits and then clear it. Basically, just do some research first...
GSR blades are machined and clear coated.
The machined surface is what allows the clear to stick (it isn't fully polished).
Just something to think about if you decide to fully polish the wheels.
I would skip the sandpaper / polishing compound entirely, use paint stripper, then coat it in clear. Leave the factory machine marks (the tiny lines on the surface) there to help the clear stick. But, I've never attempted this, its just what I would try to get the "factory look" back.
And if you do fully polish them, some places can do a clear powdercoat on them for protection.
The machined surface is what allows the clear to stick (it isn't fully polished).
Just something to think about if you decide to fully polish the wheels.
I would skip the sandpaper / polishing compound entirely, use paint stripper, then coat it in clear. Leave the factory machine marks (the tiny lines on the surface) there to help the clear stick. But, I've never attempted this, its just what I would try to get the "factory look" back.
And if you do fully polish them, some places can do a clear powdercoat on them for protection.
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