So when I tq'd my headbolts the only torque wrench I had was a brand new click-type harbor freight one which peeps told me was dookie but hey, it was all i had... So anyways, my cars been havin these crazy issues lately with boggin real bad feelin like im losin mad compression an its white smokin real bad, yesterday it wouldn't even start just whitesmoked like a bitch when i tried to start it... Well today, it barely starts an just bogs like a bitch an dont even really wanna rev up.. This problem was gradual, startin off with just a rough idle about a week ago, than 2 days ago started idleing reallllll bad at a red light, an yesterday just shut off on me... Sound like maybe some headbolts came loose, causin me to lose compression..?? When I did my head job a few weeks ago I noticed cyl#3 walls werent lookin so great but i didnt have time to hone an get new rings an all that, an well now im havin this issue... i'm still havin my random boiling coolant issue as well, so it seems resurfacing the head an putting a new headgasket didn't solve that problem... this sucks...

 

so basically my question is, i heard ur not supposed to untorque them once they're torqued down, so what about loosening them in proper sequence, and than re-torquing them..??

 

pull the head, hone it this time...
clean it up, new rings, new etc,
new orings, head and valve cover gasket
plugs
tune up
check timing.
new oils

doo all of this now, or forever have problems. once u torque gaskets down u take them off again u better replace the gasket.. u didint replace it. this is ur problem... other then the fact one cylinder wall is pretty messed up, u didint even take care of that lol.

 

maybe i wasnt clear... i had the head resurfaced, valves adjusted, new valve seals installed, block deck surfaced & cleaned, new head gasket, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, vtec solenoid seal, thermostat gasket, ect ect i got the master gasket set an replaced everything, torqued everything to spec but when i started the car i was leakin coolant from the dizzy side of the head/block, so i took off valve cover, re-torqued to i believe 52lbs? than started it and it wasnt leaking anymore, an that was about a month ago, an since than i didnt have any problems until just about a week or so ago with this severe power less/hesitation/compression feelin problem..

 

and when u replace the rings, i heard u had to replace the pistons too right..

 

so i was just doin my compression test, first "oh ****" was the hose for the test busted when i got to cyl#2, cyl's 3 & 4 were both around 185-190psi... well when it busted in cyl#2 i saw something kinda caught my eye, well i get out and look around an notice coolant shot out of cyl#3 an sprayed a lil bit into my engine bay... so my brand new headgasket is shot..??

 

I would have to say you will need to re-replace the head gasket now. What might have happened is that you didn't torque it in the right sequence and in the right steps. If you don't do this, there might be 1 or 2 bolts looser than the others.

 

Buddy i told you what to do, are you trying to be a smartass?
or are you just stupid.

when u started the car and it was leaking oil cause it wasnt torqued properly you blew it then.

It jus lasted a little while before it gave u bigger issues.

do what i said in the list and u don't need to post here again asking someone else for the same response i gave you.

i told u to do all these things because u need to do all these things again regardless if u just did or not because u need to re service your ****, i figured id tell u this because youd' prolly write another flame thread on how u just did everything, because u didint understand why i told u do do them again.

 

ok, first off i appreciate your help, but don't disrespect me...

should I ask you if you're stupid..?? i was making my original statement more clear, and apparently it still isn't very visible of what I was stating, because I never leaked oil I leaked coolant, and upon tightening the bolts again it stopped leaking...

and 1FDUPCIVIC, thanks for the clear input and less abrasive attitude upon your post I appreciate it..

 

I am having the same problem, but my car seems to have HG issues, i have had it a year, i had to replace it right after i got it, then about 6 months after, i rebuilt the engine, at that time i replaced the HG again(because of rebuild, not blown), not about 14000 miles later, once again the HG is leaking into cylinder... my civic isnt living up the the Honda rep... someone told me i should have replaced the head bolts... any input??

 

I've always heard that you should replace the head bolts. Something about once torqued, they've been stretched just a lil bit?

 

idk, not even sure if you can tell just be looking.. i just know i am having head gasket issues once again, and never replaced them, on both occasions, the coolant seeps into the cylinder while sitting, and builds up some radiator pressure, after the car sits for 10 minutes or so, and you start it back up, it misses and stumbles, it eventually clears up and goes on... it isnt getting coolant in the oil, or steaming out the tail pipe..

 

What engine is this your speaking of OP?

 

its a d16y7.. non vtec... (pretty sure it the y7).. 98 civic lx.

 

just take it back apart and do it right, and borrow or rent a decent tq wrench.

 

I have done several hg's before, by the book, i had the head resurfaced, new hg, torqued to spec... it was perfectly fine for over 10000 miles, so i must have done something right... but i must be missing something... or maybe its just a coincidence...

 

Its either the headbolts, or the headgasket just failed, it was from advance auto

 

ok the head bolts are trq to yeild so yes replace them as they have all said. go get your self new head and intake manifold gasket put them all on the correct way and if you preped the block with a wiz wheel thats probly your problem i have seen many people f them up with a wiz wheel . bolts are cheaper at honda than any were (i work there ) pluss good old honda parts make you feel good when you get them

 

Idiot

 

who is ? and who are you to call anyone out. Some people dont know and some people do

 

x2, especially coming from a guy with only 20 posts...

Anyways, the OEM repair guides dont mention anything about replacing the head studs, it's the aftermarket ones that stretch...

And it took me 3 autozone HG's and 2 different TQ/Wrenches to finally get my **** right...

 

Actually, OEM headbolts are stretchbolts, and need to be replaced any time they are untorqued. I'm sure you could get away with reusing them, MAYBE, but then things like this happen.

Just get ARP's and a new head gasket and call it a day.

 

Maybe a few things need to be cleared up here.

1st all honda head bolts are torqued to yeild. If you don't know what that means, you ever take a piece of plastic and bend it back and forth and back and forth until it breaks. Well the amount of force you used to break that plastic on that final bend is significantly less than you would use if you wanted to break it with a single bend. Get it?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensile_strength

If you try to reuse the head bolts they will never ever ever be able to apply the same clamping force they did when they were new.

2nd it is super super duper important to go not only torque the bolts in the right sequence, but install them in the proper sequence and snug them up in the proper sequence. First install them hand tight in the proper sequence, then snug (~3 ft-lbs) in the proper sequence, then you need to go in steps of the total torque.

I like splitting it up into two or more steps, never exceeding 20 ft-lbs per step, so if you need to torque them to 50 ft-lbs, I would torque them all to 20 ft-lbs, then 40 ft-lbs, then finally 50 ft-lbs all in the proper sequence. I also like to go back over all the bolts a second time at the maximum torque (50 ft-lbs in this example) without exceeding that maximum torque.

If you mess up and torque it a bit too much do not under any circumstances ever ever loosen a bolt that has already been torqued.

3rd the torque specs given by honda are for clean dry threads. If your threads are dirty, or dust falls into the holes, or you get grease, dirt, sand, moly lube, whatever on the threads it will change the torque spec. If you put moly on the threads and torque it to what honda says, you are actually over tightening the head bolts because by lubricating them, you made it easier to torque.

This also applies to the area under the head of the bolts, between the washers and the bolt heads, and under the washers. Dirt, oil, etc will change your torque values.

Also, I know that no one on this forum would ever actually do this, but I will mention it anyway. Do not under any circumstances take a whiz wheel to the top of the block or the underside of the head. This also goes for scrapers, sandpaper, or scrubby pads. The proper way to clean the surfaces is with a solvent, the proper way to remove material or fix cuts, scratches or any other surface defect is at a machine shop with a properly calibrated machine tool.

If anyone here says, "well I did this and I didn't have any problems", congratulations. You got lucky.

 

I had purchased a used dial torque wrench, and a new click torque wrench. I connected them together and set the click at some value. I twisted them against each other and right as the dial passed the value the other wrench clicked. I assume they are both calibrated correctly. You could use this technique to test a suspect torque wrench.

Also, if you you are leaking coolant (water) internally, keep in mind coolant will settle to the bottom of the oil pan right where the pump picks up its oil. You will be lubricating your engine w/ at least some percentage of water (or mostly water in extreme cases). Thats assuming the pump will even pump water.

If your cylinder is filling w/ water you risk bending or breaking something from hydrolock (water is not as compressible as air).

</capt. obvious commentary>

 

So yes!, on head bolts gottcha, i am actually having a hard time finding 'HB's for 96-00, i can find them all day long for years up to 95.. how much are they at Honda?..