the block was bored .20 over and honed by the machine shop. i installed the rings (positioned them correctly) then installed the pistons in the block. the only thing i did to the head was a valve adjustment. i started it up and it sounded fine. after all was done i did a compression test and i am not happy with them.

1. 265psi
2. 185psi
3. 240psi
4. 265psi

i put a little oil in #2 and it went up to 225.
could it be something in the valve seats/valve lash or is it damaged rings from when i mounted the pistons in. PLEASE help.

 

drive it 1000 miles and retest, the rings may not have seated. sometimes you get an oddball like that. if it doesn't correct after 1000 miles you have two choices. drive it till something breaks or tear it down and re hone that cylinder and use new rings. did you check for out of round?>

you are using 5-20 or 5-30 dino oil right?

 

yea man. you have to drive it

 

yea im using 5w-30 conventional oil.

i figured they may not have seated. i drove it about 2-3 miles so far. i just wanna make sure that it isnt anything else so i can fix it now.

 

so should i just wait?

 

drive as much as you can, jump on it, let off, repeat. this isn't really that uncommon. check it again after a month & see what you get.

besides, what's the alternative to waiting? a tear down? might as well drive it for awhile first

 

yea your right.. guess ill wait and see.

 

bump for new suggestions.

 

you've driven 500-1000 miles, retested and it's no better? also you're doing this with the engine fully warm and the TB open?

 

it could be alot of things that went wrong, but then again some things just dont sit correctly from the get go I.E piston rings, valves, etc... so the ONLY way to really know where ur leak is, is to do a leak down test

 

ive only driven it about 10 miles so far.. it went up 10psi on pistons 2 & 3.

im getting a slight problem on idle now. its a little ruff and drops into shaky rpms after a small rev. by ruff i mean it sputters slightly, almost like an offbeat sound mixed in with the idle. the motor shakes a bit since my driver side mount isnt solid like the rest. the idle hops up to 1 grand and the sputtering stops as soon as i disconnect the ECT sensor.

im getting code 23. KS

i just finished doing the compression test and now i have code 8.. i know 8 is tdc but i had gotten this code before and it went away. could it be my dizzy plugs? the dizzy is obd2, i had to rewire it with obd1 plugs. one of the pugs is broken but still makes contact. any help?

 

post this in all motor, the idle can be cam timing, vacuum, ignition timing or the iacv not being bled of air properly. when you pull codes on the scan tool what are they? you mentioned 23, which one is it?