Could use a little help finishing up my swap d15b vtec. It runs but not perfect and I have a cel for code 9 once I start driving it.
I had most of the work done by people who said they knew what they were doing.
One point of concern to me is that the pr3 is obd0 but their is a grey plug(obd1) connecting the distributor which is a td 20u(obd0).
code 9 points to the sensors in the distributor so Is there a way to check the sensor to see if there good or maybe it is wired wrong.
Could use a expert opinion here. Thanks.

 

for one, your using the wrong ecu. for best results convert to obd1 and run the motor as a D16Z6. this will make things much easier for you. if your willing i have spare p28 i can sell you. pm me if interested.

 

Buying your ecu would not solve the problem just make bigger ones.

Originally it was being converted to obd1 hence the grey plug at the distributor.

I also have a obd0 - obd1 conversion harness here but someone decided to cut wires and move things because of the dpfi to mpfi being done at the same time.

long story short It never ran in obd1 p28 chipped and unchipped forms.

For now I'm keeping obd0 till all the bugs are worked out then I'll try obd1 again.

To help myself troubleshoot this problem I'm thinking of getting a pm6 ecu to see how it runs on that. I can always chip it and activate vtec separately.

 

Then if u want to keep it obd0 you will hAve to get a new distributor either a td02 or td18.
Here is what I would suggest, it's pretty simple. If you don't want to mess with wiring call rywirr and get one of their dpfi to obd1 conversion harness. This will be straight plug n play sine u are about 80% obd1.
I honestly prefer the obd1 system compared to my old obd0 lsv with chipped pr3.

Or get an an uncut harness from an Si version of your car or an ex if you have a sedan. I strongly urge you to go obd1 to have proper vtec engagement. Doesn't matter if u get the ecu from me or another source.

 

Also on a side note d15b's are obd1 and I'm going to assume the distributor you have is the one for the motor. Because as everyone knows you CANNOT use an obd0 distributor on an obd1 system even if you change out the plugs beause both systems have different pulses for the crank sensor.

 

OBD1 is the only way to get that car to run right man. Rywire is the ****, so just go with them on it.

 

The distributor(td 20u) I'm currently using is not the one that came with the motor and is obd0.
You say I should be using a td02 or td18. Could you please explain a little more this could be the reason why I have a code 9.

 

ill make it even easier for you. take off your distributor cap, then the rotor and coil. now look down inside. there will be a gear. how many teeth are on that gear. does it have 4 or alot? please post a pic. if it has 4 then its obd0 if its alot of small teeth then its obd1.

 

sounds to me like the distributor wiring is not correct - try switching the wires that go to the blue/green and blue/yellow on the distributor or run a continuity check on the wires from the ECU to make sure that the wire at ECU pin C1 is connected to the blue/green on the distributor and the wire at ECU pin C2 is connected to the blue/yellow on the distributor

 

just thought id share my info i just did a jdm d15b vtec swap here is what i did
obd0 to obd1
first the obd0 dizzy wires must be swaped to the new obd1 gray plugs im posting pics of where the wires go
u need to run vtec wires down to the ecu two wires and one ground wire
u need a jumper harness for the ecu obd0 to obd1 ,rywire or craigslist for that
then u have to run a p28 or a rare po7 if u run a p28 u have to wire in a 4 wire o2 sensor this is what i did, or get the p28 chipped to run a 1 wire o2 sensor which is what a p07 does
the dizzy is a td-42u or u need a d16z6 dizzy

 

Also you have to run an obd1 distributor. Or the car will not start

 

an obd1 plug will not fit on a obd0 dizzy nor will an obd0 dizzy work for obd1

 

thanks for the info I've double checked my wiring and it is correct, I even flipped some of the wires back and forth to see how it would run and it ran best the way it was with the cel on for code 9.

I need to test my distributor to make sure all the sensors in it are working correctly. I have a multimeter so does anyone know how to test a distributor.

remember This is for obd0

 

found a new problem today on the freeway. no passing power at freeway speeds.
Around town car accelerates as good if not better than my old non vtec d15, but at higher speeds its really lagging far worst than my old engine.

Is this a new problem or directly related to the cel code 9?

Anyone have this problem before?