Coilovers w/ Camber arms from Skunk2
Hey guys I was wondering if you could help, I previously bought the HFP suspension and WAS satisfied with the drop for awhile but I'm now looking into coilovers for their adjustability. So now my question is that if I buy the skunk2 pro S coilovers and drop it so it would look flush but not slammed, would I need camber arms? I don't even know what they are used for so I don't know whether I need it or not. So just give me your thoughts and answers. Thanks in advance.
Yes you'll want to get the camber arms as well. Just to be safe. Some cars are different....but most Si models have notorious negative camber in the rear. Dropping it will swing that camber even further into the negative.
While camber doesn't eat up tires as badly as toe does....it can still do some damage over time. Not to mention cars with a **** load of negative camber in the rear just look flat-out goofy.
The camber arms allow you to straighten out the rear camber alignment so your tires stand straighter.
While camber doesn't eat up tires as badly as toe does....it can still do some damage over time. Not to mention cars with a **** load of negative camber in the rear just look flat-out goofy.
The camber arms allow you to straighten out the rear camber alignment so your tires stand straighter.
If you want to get coilovers and your getting teh skunk2 pro s im gonna tell you that its a much stiffer ride then stock.
2nd of all, a camber are allows for you to physically adjust how much camber or how little you want. The way it looks is 0 degrees of camber is straight up anything negative the top of the tire will point toward the center of the car. The lower you drop a car the the more negative camber you have. You get a camber kit to adjust it. Camber will prematurely and unevenly wear your tires unless you rotate them often. Dont get this confused with toe which chews and eats up tires.
2nd of all, a camber are allows for you to physically adjust how much camber or how little you want. The way it looks is 0 degrees of camber is straight up anything negative the top of the tire will point toward the center of the car. The lower you drop a car the the more negative camber you have. You get a camber kit to adjust it. Camber will prematurely and unevenly wear your tires unless you rotate them often. Dont get this confused with toe which chews and eats up tires.
OP: I'm not trying to steer you away from your decision to opt for coilovers, but do you care about ride comfort at all? Skunk's are known to be be stiffly sprung and dampened unless you swap out for different spring rates.
OP....here's what you're looking at in terms of stiffness. The Skunk2 Pro-S come with a 12kg front and 10kg rear spring rates. The stock Si suspension is about 3.5kg front and 4kg rear I believe. Pretty big jump.
Yes you'll want to get the camber arms as well. Just to be safe. Some cars are different....but most Si models have notorious negative camber in the rear. Dropping it will swing that camber even further into the negative.
While camber doesn't eat up tires as badly as toe does....it can still do some damage over time. Not to mention cars with a **** load of negative camber in the rear just look flat-out goofy.
The camber arms allow you to straighten out the rear camber alignment so your tires stand straighter.
While camber doesn't eat up tires as badly as toe does....it can still do some damage over time. Not to mention cars with a **** load of negative camber in the rear just look flat-out goofy.
The camber arms allow you to straighten out the rear camber alignment so your tires stand straighter.
If you want to get coilovers and your getting teh skunk2 pro s im gonna tell you that its a much stiffer ride then stock.
2nd of all, a camber are allows for you to physically adjust how much camber or how little you want. The way it looks is 0 degrees of camber is straight up anything negative the top of the tire will point toward the center of the car. The lower you drop a car the the more negative camber you have. You get a camber kit to adjust it. Camber will prematurely and unevenly wear your tires unless you rotate them often. Dont get this confused with toe which chews and eats up tires.
2nd of all, a camber are allows for you to physically adjust how much camber or how little you want. The way it looks is 0 degrees of camber is straight up anything negative the top of the tire will point toward the center of the car. The lower you drop a car the the more negative camber you have. You get a camber kit to adjust it. Camber will prematurely and unevenly wear your tires unless you rotate them often. Dont get this confused with toe which chews and eats up tires.
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I'd also suggest getting front camber bolts also, seeing as they do not cost that much ranging from 30-40 dollars for the pair.
It would stand to reason to go on ahead and purchase the Skunk2 rear camber arms, however, I have heard of a member on here having issues with premature wear on some of the rubber bushings on his camber arms. I'm not too sure if Skunk2 has rectified this issue yet.
It would stand to reason to go on ahead and purchase the Skunk2 rear camber arms, however, I have heard of a member on here having issues with premature wear on some of the rubber bushings on his camber arms. I'm not too sure if Skunk2 has rectified this issue yet.
Yeah I care for it alot, I noticed that the HFP was a little stiffer but I guess what your saying is that skunk2 is A LOT more stiffer right? How do you go about switching spring rates? Does it cost extra? Sorry for the innumerable amount of questions, I'm not a pro at suspension.
He can order softer spring rates from Skunk2 for a pretty cheap price and have them installed.
OP....here's what you're looking at in terms of stiffness. The Skunk2 Pro-S come with a 12kg front and 10kg rear spring rates. The stock Si suspension is about 3.5kg front and 4kg rear I believe. Pretty big jump.
OP....here's what you're looking at in terms of stiffness. The Skunk2 Pro-S come with a 12kg front and 10kg rear spring rates. The stock Si suspension is about 3.5kg front and 4kg rear I believe. Pretty big jump.
Thats the problem i paid like 450 or 500 for my pro s coilovers and there isnt anything on the market that has adjustablity for that price. You can swap out the springs and it will soften up the ride but it is still going to be a rough ride. You cant really get a smooth ride with coilovers.
The front camber bolts are cheap and you might as well buy them too. I had issues with my front camber and toe. Ive had my skunk 2 rear camber arms on for a while now many many miles and nothing. The guy with the black FG1 on gold RPF1s had an issue with his bushing and skunk 2 was supposed to be fixing the issue.
I dont regret getting my coilovers especually for what i paid for them. Only thing i noticed with mine is when im on a nice road or hwy the ride is fine, its when you start hitting bumps and stuff that the ride gets bad.
The front camber bolts are cheap and you might as well buy them too. I had issues with my front camber and toe. Ive had my skunk 2 rear camber arms on for a while now many many miles and nothing. The guy with the black FG1 on gold RPF1s had an issue with his bushing and skunk 2 was supposed to be fixing the issue.
I dont regret getting my coilovers especually for what i paid for them. Only thing i noticed with mine is when im on a nice road or hwy the ride is fine, its when you start hitting bumps and stuff that the ride gets bad.
It's the MAIN one. I'm not sure about the Pro-S, but the Pro-C come with camber adjustment built into the front struts themselves in addition to the upper camber adjustment at the top of the struts. The Pro-S do not come with the upper camber adjustment, but I believe they do have the camber adjustment on the lower strut that bolts to the wheel portion..but it's not much though. Check with Skunk2 on that.
There are front camber bolts sold aftermarket that you can buy that allow for more front camber adjustment. They're not very expensive at all and would probably be your best bet in case you can't get the degree of adjustment out of the front you want from the struts themselves.
Yes. Softer spring rates means there's less force required to compress them. So you'll see an improvement in ride quality. It's not going to be night and day....but it will be an improvement.
Remember to that you want to keep an eye on how low you're planning on dropping your car. Too soft of spring rates on a low low car are a bad combination. You'll start bottoming out on your fender lining, bump stops, and maybe even the bumper and frame/front tow hooks to depending on what type of bump/dip you take.
There are front camber bolts sold aftermarket that you can buy that allow for more front camber adjustment. They're not very expensive at all and would probably be your best bet in case you can't get the degree of adjustment out of the front you want from the struts themselves.
Remember to that you want to keep an eye on how low you're planning on dropping your car. Too soft of spring rates on a low low car are a bad combination. You'll start bottoming out on your fender lining, bump stops, and maybe even the bumper and frame/front tow hooks to depending on what type of bump/dip you take.
Last edited by RICO_; Sep 8, 2009 at 08:03 PM.
I have the Sportlines on stock struts, I was going to try them with Koni Yellows soon. It's a good bit stiffer than stock, the Koni will give me adjustability and I could care less for ride height adjustment. Really it comes down to how much are you willing to tolerate, I don't mind the ride and my wife doesn't either. My dad on the other hand likes to ask me why I have wagon springs.
My dad told me that he was gonna **** blood for a week due to the stiff coilvoers hurting his kidneys. said it felt like a knife stabbing him in back.
You ever hear that statment: If its to loud your too old. I think that applies to my situation!
You ever hear that statment: If its to loud your too old. I think that applies to my situation!
the ingalls rear kit is cheaper and works just as good http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...oducts_id=3339 . that's what i have and haven't had any issues yet in 12k miles
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you'll get uneven tire wear from front to back even on stock suspension, as the front is heavier then the back and the camber is different from front to back. however, i do agree that camber kits are a good idea regardless of whether the suspension is stock or aftermarket; more negative camber in the front than in the back helps with rotation.
.you'll get uneven tire wear from front to back even on stock suspension, as the front is heavier then the back and the camber is different from front to back. however, i do agree that camber kits are a good idea regardless of whether the suspension is stock or aftermarket; more negative camber in the front than in the back helps with rotation.
So i'm guessin a lot of you guys disagree with this sticky about not needing camber arms https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/no-you-do-not-need-camber-kits-2614449/
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