So for the past few days when using my clutch the peddle would sink to floor and i would loose some fluid. I thought it was a leak in my clutch slave cylinder line. Apparently that wasn't it. I bled the line and I still have NO pressure in clutch peddle. It goes right to the floor.

I noticed when trying to bleed it that there is hardly any liquid coming out. This is why I'm pretty sure the clutch master cylinder went. I took a look at it and I see some wetness around one of the hoses.

Now I have taken it all apart yet I can't seem to get access to remove the 12mm hydraulic line connected to it.

What's the best way to remove this?

I need to try and find a new CMC tomorrow but not sure whats the best way to remove the old one and install the new one.

Please someone help. or a DIY

It's on a 02 Civic LX D17.

Thanks!

 

???

 

93 Civic DX here. I had a failed clutch master cylinder a few weeks ago. I am looking at a 2002 parts diagram of your system and the free online repair guide for your 2002 Civic at autozone.com . It has decent illustrations; it looks very similar to my Civic's. Hints on replacement:

I turkey basted out the CMC reservoir and then drained the system via the slave cylinder bleed valve. Then I removed the reservoir and its bracket for optimal access to the master cylinder connections. Gotta use a 12 mm brake line wrench, of course. If you do not have one, it's a few bucks at your local aftermarket auto parts store.

Did you inspect the driver's side clutch pedal for leakage where the rod penetrates the firewall? This was my tipoff that my CMC was failing.

Conventional wisdom is to replace both the master and slave cylinders at the same time. If one's seals are gone, then the other's will not be far behind. Got mine at NAPA for around $70 total. After three weeks, all works great.

Bleeding a Honda clutch system is trickier than with the brake system. Here is what finally worked well for me:

I bench bled as best I could both the CMC and CSC. Nothing fancy; just used tubes, a bottle of brake fluid, and pumped the pistons of each a few times.

Get about nine inches of 7/32-inch OD, 5/32-inch ID tygon tubing that fits over the slave cylinder bleed valve nipple really well. (My tubing came with a brake master cylinder I purchased a year ago from Napa.) Your 2002 bleed valve is exactly the same as my 1993's. Attach the tubing to the new slave cylinder's bleeder. Having a tight fit of tubing-to-bleeder is the best insurance that you will get a good bleed and hence firm clutch pedal.

Immerse the other end of the tubing in a fresh bottle having maybe 1/4-inch of brake fluid in it. I used an old but clean 8-oz water bottle and sat it on the undercarriage's protective cover. Fill the clutch MC reservoir about 3/4's full. Crack the bleeder screw. Let gravity help push air out of the system. Close the bleeder screw. Top off the reservoir again. Now repeat the following steps until you see no air come out of the bleeder screw tubing and hear no burping (air bubbles being released) from the bottle sitting on the undercarriage cover:

1. Pump the pedal 2-3x slowly (I pumped it ten times). Hold pedal down with a 2x4 piece of wood propped against a square plastic bucket in the driver's seat, lodging the 2x4 underneath the steering wheel.
2. Open the bleeder screw a tiny bit then close it. You do not keep it open more than say a few seconds, whence the air bubbles no longer go towards the bottle receiving the brake fluid.
3. Check the reservoir level and add fluid as needed. It will not need much. Do not let the reservoir go dry.
4. Lift the clutch pedal from floor back into position.

To get a firm pedal will take about 30 repetitions of the above. This will take maybe an hour. Driving around and using the clutch a bit, then bleeding a few times, may help it firm up. I think the higher temperature of the fluid after driving a bit helps air come out of solution.

I had tried my Mity-Vac pump on the system but, unlike the brakes, the Mity-Vac was a stupendous failure in getting any kind of bleed.

 

Great info, some I already knew BUT here is where my problem is I have like no idea how to get it out of the spot its in. the CMC. It's like tucked away behind where the suspension tower is.

Do i have to remove my brake master cylinder to gain access to it? I'm going to check the autozone thing now and the online manual and see what that says

 

Remove the brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder reservoir with a syringe.

If the master cylinder is equipped with the retaining clip holder (A), remove it. Remove the retaining clip (B).

Disconnect the clutch line (C) and reservoir hose (D). Plug the end of the clutch line and reservoir hose with a shop towel to prevent brake fluid from coming out.

Pry out the lock pin (A), and pull the pedal pin (B) out of the yoke. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (C).

Remove the clutch master cylinder

Remove the O-ring (A) and the clutch master cylinder seal (B) from the master cylinder (C).

tips: if im not mistaken i think u have more access right under the fenderwell. remove the driver's side tires then u will able to see the whole master cylinder.

 

looks like I have serious problems. via Inside the tranny.

aw ****

 

how is this going? clutch master cylinder may need lots of work. i have found an article giving step by step instructions on how to do this online. i had a similar problem and i also needed to buy some replacement parts such as master cylinder cover and other tools and accessories