hey ht, see if you can help me out, b16 turbo, p28ecu hondata tuned using 4bar map, i was driving my car last night and for some reason it just died on me just around the corner
from my house, check engine light came on, code 15 rechecked all my wiring, replace all the internal of the dizzy with a b18b obd1, code is now gone but still no start, i have no spark, replaced ignitor with a know good one, still no spark, now im at a stand still
has any one run into this. i had the motor running four about a year now. tomarrow ill
will try and get my friend over and try my dizzy and ecu on his hatch with a b16.

 

hmmm, interesting. not sure why it's still acting up, but maybe this will prove useful

 

ok so all test passed ill replace my ignitor and go from there ill let you guy know how it gose. thanks.

 

OK SO I TRYED DIFFERENT IGNITORS AND STILL NOTHING.

 

so now when inspecting the wiring to the ignitor they were loose, so i installed the old
wiring to the dizzy and crimped then for better concection, installed a new cap and now
i have spark, but it still dosent start, timming is on, fuel pressure is at 45PSI, i do have fuel entering in the combustional camber cuz spark plug are wet, dryed them off, and still no start. so im going to preform compression test next. and use my old cap to determine if its a bad cap for the spark concern.

 

so the car has only been sitting a little longer than a week right? so you can rule out bad gas. im guessing maybe ignition timing..? but the car should still start with ignition timing off. like you said, try a new cap, maybe all you need is a stronger spark.

worst case scenario, bad compression. you may have jumped timing and thats why youre not getting compression.

let us know how things work out for you. GL

 

well i check timming after i the vehicle didnt start after i had spark twice, its dead on, so then i performed a compression test, pulled out all spark plugs then test. cly 1 reads 160 cly2 reads 140 cly 3 150, cly 4 135 low compression but should still have enough to spark, i didnt try the oil tea spoon for blow buy but comprssion will alway be higher when its performed. ill try a new rotor next. thanks mother ef-er for the idea.

 

ok guys i got the my car running again, so it was not the cap, cuz i switch the cap with the old one and i still had spark, after re crimping the internal wire to the ignitor anothor code poped up, code 4 witch is crank sensor. so i used the internal out of a obd-1 ls dizzy and wa-la started right up. i still have the code 4 though but at lest it run ill now have to re diag this concern and hopen i wont need to buy a new b16 dizzy.

 

ok so now i bought a new dizzy and still the same code, so then i tested the continuity with the cks, and the ground, all reads at 365, and those are the blue yellow and blue green, all passed, so i make a jump from the dizzy to the ecu and still the same code,
has any one come across this be for, can my ecu be bad.

 

Check for the resistance b etween the blue/yel and blu/grn wires where they enter into the ECU, this will tell you if the ECU is bad or not. I had to do this when my car threw code 4.