Failed smog.
your first mistake was taking in the car with a dc header because test only shops wont even bother passing you...post a pic of your engine bay and what motor are you using because people cant help you if they dont know what you got...!!!
depends for what car they belong to...regardless any test only station will not want to mess with any altered emissions systems because the state sends in lots of decoys to make sure that they are doing there job correctly...its just like when you get pulled over by a cop if you have dc headers who will still refer you to the state ref just to be a *****...!!!
did you get a signed bill of sale that says "as is" from the previous owner...if not call him up and tell him that he was required to sale the vehicle with a current smog certificate within the last 90 days...if he acts like a ***** and you didn't sign anything then you should threaten him with a small claims case or have him smog it for you...if you signed a agreement that said "as is" then your pretty much SOL...!!!
you can get copies of carb certifications for parts that are legal...i would carry that paperwork around in the glove box.
as far as your emissions, try using thicker oil and doing a good tune up. filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, etc. you might get lucky and pass without a rebuild
as far as your emissions, try using thicker oil and doing a good tune up. filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, etc. you might get lucky and pass without a rebuild
since your in cali there are a lot of people who got the hook up on passing smog for less than $200...if you got the stock motor still in the car i would fill out a application to the state CAP program since they will pay up to $500 to pass your car if it fails smog...thats what i did last year and all i paid was a $25 co-pay for work that came out to $475...only thing you have to do is put back on your stock emission parts or else they wont accept you...!!!
http://www.bar.ca.gov/01_ConsumerAct...ssistance.html
http://www.bar.ca.gov/01_ConsumerAct...ssistance.html
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DC headers have a CARB number on them and should be legal at any smog shop.
If they are the ceramic coated header then I suggest you look for a stock header.
The ceramic one dissipates heat too quickly and your O2 sensor doesn't heat up correctly.
The white smoke has GOT TO BE fixed.
My guess is that the smoke smell it like radiator coolant.
This would suggest a new headgasket in most cases.
... not an entire engine rebuild.
Looking at the top of your smog slip, you see you need a new fuel cap and need to set your ignition timing. You also seem to have some important emissions stuff disconnected ... I'm surprised he even tested you after visually failing the car.
Oddly enough - with your smoking engine - your actual test numbers aren't all that bad.
Wouldn't be surprised if the numbers dramatically changed if you just fixed the things at the top of the slip.
Also, does your dash has a check engine light that is constantly on?
If they are the ceramic coated header then I suggest you look for a stock header.
The ceramic one dissipates heat too quickly and your O2 sensor doesn't heat up correctly.
The white smoke has GOT TO BE fixed.
My guess is that the smoke smell it like radiator coolant.
This would suggest a new headgasket in most cases.
... not an entire engine rebuild.
Looking at the top of your smog slip, you see you need a new fuel cap and need to set your ignition timing. You also seem to have some important emissions stuff disconnected ... I'm surprised he even tested you after visually failing the car.
Oddly enough - with your smoking engine - your actual test numbers aren't all that bad.
Wouldn't be surprised if the numbers dramatically changed if you just fixed the things at the top of the slip.
Also, does your dash has a check engine light that is constantly on?
wow looks like trouble... I'm up for a test soon in my prelude and I just passed last time but a friend told me to check out www.smogsecret.com that has some very valuable info as he put it. I also know they explain how to read the numbers. good luck I'll let you know how mine goes
I don't think you should mess with the cat until you fix the other problems.
Cats cost too much - hmm... actually check the FS thread. I saw one in there within the last couple days for $45... dunno if it works though. Good luck.
I suggest you get everything working right with NO SMOKE and take it back in for a PRE-TEST.
Tell the tech that you just did a lot of repairs and want to see if you have any chance of passing this time.
They can do a partial test (might charge you, but not the complete test price) to see what numbers you put out. The difference being is that the numbers don't get sent to DMV and record a possible failure again.
Make sure you drive the car a lot after you fix it to burn off whatever mess has been shooting out your exhaust.
Also, before the pre-test, drive a good 15 miles to get the cat heated up really well and have the tech test the car ASAP so the cat doesn't cool down.
Do not put anything in your gas like that 'pass smog' for the pre-test. The idea is to see what effect your repairs make.
If you fail again and everything is in working order, drive over to an exhaust shop an have them test your cat.
There is a point and shoot thermometer they test it with to see what temp the inlet and outlet of the cat is. If the cat isn't lighting up properly the outlet temp will be way off.
Cats cost too much - hmm... actually check the FS thread. I saw one in there within the last couple days for $45... dunno if it works though. Good luck.
I suggest you get everything working right with NO SMOKE and take it back in for a PRE-TEST.
Tell the tech that you just did a lot of repairs and want to see if you have any chance of passing this time.
They can do a partial test (might charge you, but not the complete test price) to see what numbers you put out. The difference being is that the numbers don't get sent to DMV and record a possible failure again.
Make sure you drive the car a lot after you fix it to burn off whatever mess has been shooting out your exhaust.
Also, before the pre-test, drive a good 15 miles to get the cat heated up really well and have the tech test the car ASAP so the cat doesn't cool down.
Do not put anything in your gas like that 'pass smog' for the pre-test. The idea is to see what effect your repairs make.
If you fail again and everything is in working order, drive over to an exhaust shop an have them test your cat.
There is a point and shoot thermometer they test it with to see what temp the inlet and outlet of the cat is. If the cat isn't lighting up properly the outlet temp will be way off.
Engine Restorer, comes in a silver can.
You probably would have failed it anyways, since visual says TAMPERED
Anyways, there is the additive that guarantees your money back if your car doesn't pass smog, they sell it online or at Autozone. Kragen, O'Reiley
You probably would have failed it anyways, since visual says TAMPERED
Anyways, there is the additive that guarantees your money back if your car doesn't pass smog, they sell it online or at Autozone. Kragen, O'Reiley
actually buying a new/use motor would be your best bet... i seen some people use those restoration stuff and it didn't do anything... also i know a few mechanics that also say those restoration engine stuff really are a waste of money
so my suggestion is get a compression check on all 4 cylinders to see if one or more cylinders are low compression if there is any by chance... change the engine or rebuild that same engine your pick... i rather go buy the same engine and change all the seals plus timming belt... these SOHC non vtec engines aren't even expensive at attarco they're $475 but you prob can get it cheaper if you just search around =]
so my suggestion is get a compression check on all 4 cylinders to see if one or more cylinders are low compression if there is any by chance... change the engine or rebuild that same engine your pick... i rather go buy the same engine and change all the seals plus timming belt... these SOHC non vtec engines aren't even expensive at attarco they're $475 but you prob can get it cheaper if you just search around =]
i've bought from them and its been 3 years and going since i got the engine.. it very reliable.. Once i bought the engine i changed all seals and timming belt...very well taken care of ever since and still running strong
if you do go through attarco make sure your the one that picks the engine and inspect it... find the cleanest one or bring a friend that knows about engines to inspect it as well
well gl to you!! also... you should inspect the cat as well since it might be clogged from the old engine after that everything should be set...
gl man..
if you do go through attarco make sure your the one that picks the engine and inspect it... find the cleanest one or bring a friend that knows about engines to inspect it as well
well gl to you!! also... you should inspect the cat as well since it might be clogged from the old engine after that everything should be set...
gl man..
Cool thank!! I live in cali and I hope they would have it in sac. Just a question, after the swap is there anything that I have to go thru with the DMV since I'm changing engines? I'm guessing no not really...
Just keep the receipt so you have proof that you purchased the replacement engine and you didn't steal it.


