Hi guys my name is Cal from Buffalo, ny. I just bought my first honda, a 94 coupe 5 spd with 94k! Best part being obd-1

So my current dd is a 99 audi a4 1.8t quattro which i love but always wanted a honda and for the steal i got this car for couldnt turn it down...

Now it does need a cat and catback to pass inspection... I dont want a loud fart can as i am out of that stage and also have a 9 month old daughter that likes to sleep in the car... So where is a good place to buy a cat (oem or aftermarket cheap) and a nice oem/aftermarket QUITE cat back? And also i have heard a cam can do wonders to the f-series. I honestly don't even know what engine is in the car its an LX. I don't want to go all out and boost it or do an h-series swap... but a few bolt-ons and a cam/tune isn't out of the question. Where is a good place to start?

Also any certain maintenance i should watch for? Thanks guys!

 

Cal, welcome to the accord club! haha. Well, as for an OEM cat, you could always go to your local junkyard and try and find one. Now as for a quiet exhuast, stock is always a good option haha, but seriously anything that is a big piping you will want to avoid and maybe try something that has a silencer you can put in it. I am sure some guys on here will name a few good ones they have had for you.

As for cam and all that good stuff, go visit bisimoto.com, they have some nice cams that you can drop in. You car, being an lx, is a non-vtec f22b2. Easy way to check, pop the hood, and see if it says "Honda 16 Valve" on the valve cover. That's the F22B2 non-Vtec. The F22B1 Vtec has the Honda emblem and it says VTEC on the VC. Just a few little identifiers for you in case someone swapped a VTEC in there for some reason.

As for maintenance. just keep up the regular oil changes, air filters, and stuff like that. There is some small stuff that happens to the 5th gen accords that some people encounter and some do not. A few come to mind, rust spots over the rear wheel well (damn the Honda cancer spots!), and also the speedometer/odometer circuit board sometimes will fry and they both will not work, and a simple new cluster, or buying the actual board will fix it right up. There is a lot more, but for the most part, as long as you keep up on everything, she will run for many many years to come.

 

is it worth it to swap on a vtec head?

any intake/exhaust manifolds/throttle bodies from other engines that add some hp?

Are these $50 headers on ebay as shitty as i would think they are?

Im not looking to buy a $1000 toda header here but some upper rpm power would be nice!

 

I mean, the VTEC head does give you more HP, not a huge amount, but it does. But some people, do prefer a non-vtec head. But more companies do make stuff for the VTEC head, like the headers. And no, for performance, do not buy any eBay headers or anything like that, sure you can buy stuff from eBay, but make sure it is name brand, like DC Sports, or something like that. Mostly, the basic bolt ons, are intake, header, and exhaust. I have heard mixed reviews on throttle bodies, like untuned, may not get you much at all, but tuned can make a difference.

 

get a apexi WS2 if you want silent but a slight roar when you step on the pedal...id say i know you dont want to go all out with a turbo but that might be a better option in your case...your car is under 100k and is very low compression i think 8 to 1 ratio so no building is needed. Cams would be good to but you could pull off around 8 to 10 psi daily driven with a stock motor and have impressive improvments in proformance...

 

hmmm

i highly doubt its a compression ratio of 8:1 though

 

Also what is the chassis code for my year accord?

 

F22B2 has 8.8 to 1 compression ratio. And your chassis code is CD7.

5th gen accord.

CD5-4 door USDM
CD6-4 door JDM
CD7-2 door USDM
CD8-2 door JDM

 

holy **** that is low for oem specs lol

 

yep...im surprized you got a dam 94 with freakin under 100k miles!!

 

yep...

so with bolt-ons could it run 14's?

 

uhh if your a really good driver i say high 14s with 10 psi but avg would run 15s...u would be able to smoke h22a accords i know that and they run 15s

 

ehhh....yeah, turbo is a bolt on haha, and you can definitely run 14's with that haha.

well, standard bolt ons, its hard to say. all on the driver really, and the conditions of the internals as well.

 

Bolt ons? I doubt it. H22A Accords run mid/low 14's.

 

meh thats gay... but something doesnt seem right..

a 2door accord weighs roughly 2800lbs and an h22 has 200hp with bolt-ons say 220hp (at the crank) and they run mid-low 14's? wtf

well my audi weighs 3400 and has roughly 220hp and runs mid 14's

 

doesnt anybody one here have some 1320 times without a turbo or swap lol???

 

maybe with a fully built motor...i think bisi did it and got 11 or something

 

Yo, Im new to honda tech and was wondering if i could get a little help from everyone ( mainly CD peeps) but i take all help. I own a 94 cd6 f22b2 with 25k on the motor. its automatic but looking forward to a tranny swap but in the mean time is there any tips i can get to spruce up my f22b2, like cams ,compression, intake header exhuast. Thanks

 

I'm assuming you have an A4

1996 Audi A4 8.9 16.8
2003 Audi A4 3.0 Cabriolet 7.5 15.9
2003 Audi A4 Avant 3.0 Quattro 7.7 15.9
2005 Audi A4 1.8T 8.1 16.2 (C&D)

Don't know where you're getting 14's from.

 

Its a 1999.5 with a giac chip at 22psi and a 3" test pipe...

 

I have to imagine a car that makes 180bhp at ~8psi stock (per wiki) vs the like 160bhp with no boost an H22 makes is going to be faster when the boost is bumped up to 22psi with a chipped ECU.

But in any case, mid/low 14's for a stock JDM H22A dropped into a CD chassis Accord. Compared to the 17s or so stock it's a huge improvement.

 

well i had an all motor neon r/t that ran 14.5-14.7's and on spray(100shot) went 12.9... And that was by far the car i miss the most lol i know a neon right...

Can an h22 handle 75-100 shot tuned?

And yes the stock 1.8 makes 150hp/155tq at 7-8psi stock but, chipped around 220hp and 230tq