alright, i know everyone doesnt like seized bolts as much as i do, specially if theyre rear lca bolts....

i have a 96 integra with 175k miles on it.
and apparently the rear lower control arm bolts are seized.
and yes including the one for the subframe. (all 3 14mm bolts each lca)

i have:

a set of brand new lower control arms. (gold blox)
a set of brand new kyb agx. (painted semi flat black have a stock look)
a set of brand new tein s-tech springs.

i cant put them on unless those bolts come out.

and im using a fully charged 1/2in snap on gun that just took out my axle nuts and crank pulley nuts easy. it didnt even budge the lca bolts.


anyone have any idea on how to go about this?

ive tried pb blast, hammer, torch, electric impact gun, and a ratchet.

i really dont wanna break the bolts cause its just gonna sit there for a while, i havent tried a breaker bar cause itll just break the head of the bolt.

ive yet to try an air impact gun.


if anything i would just get a shop to take em out for me but itll be my last resort.


anyone?

 

oh and my one friend that has a 94 integra with like a million miles on it, his lcas came out dandy...

 

Propane torch? Had a battle with 3 bolts on the down pipe of a rusted out civic today. Put the torch to it and cracked it free pretty quickly.

 

the only problem is that it softens the frame if you leave it on too long... i wanna be safe and effective...

 

I had to go at mine with a breaker bar, I recomend buying new struts bolts so you dont have to worry about them they're expensive but worth it if you got new struts and arms. The ones in the sub frame are the ones i was really worried about but a breaker bar and they came out.

 

i will LIGHTLY try a breaker bar today.

 

I cant remember correctly but we had a problem with my LCA/Strut bolt also. We tried everything, then we cut the bottom of the strut and hammered the bolt out. You might want to buy new bolts and new bushings because I have gold blox LCAs and my bushings started cracking the other day.

 

oxy acetylene torch, only thing hot enough to expand bolts where they will break loose, propane torches dont get hot enough. If its seized, dont try anything but heat, or you will do what i did on my neon, snap the bolt in half.

 

yea dont break the bolt or your'll be in big trouble...

 

Geez, you tried everything I would have suggested. Those must be some super rusty bolts

 

air impact gun and replace them

 

used a huge snap on air impact gun!! worked like a charm!!

thanks for the help guys.

i almost had to resort to an angel grinder.
and dont go to local shops... theyre gay with their ****.
went to my family auto shop, asked if i could get the bolts loose. they were tryna charge me $60 bucks to do it and will have to wait 2 days.

 

Yeah those lca bolts are a biatch, when we tried to lower my dc2 last summer we tried for two days straight everything you could think of finally i was just like im gonna take it to a mom and pop shop, they hit it with an impact snapped the head off the bolts, was bound to happen, so they had to call acura to get new bolts and bushings, was a bitch, but was worth it in the end. those bolts always tend to seize, you're better off with them doing it in a shop safely, gl man.

 

my friend has a tub of that old school anti-seize with some chemicals that were later banned in the 90s or something, im gona use that on brand new control arm bolts when i do mine in october.

 

wow your own family trying to cheat you out of $60

 

god i hate siezed bolts

 

I always thought you should heat around the bolt so it expands and then the bolt can come out, but i guess there isn't anything you can heat around other than the bushing...But my question is if you heat the bolt and expand it, woudn't that make it worse by making it bigger inside the bushing, and getting it more stuck? I don't know, get back to me, because my buddy has an oxy acetylene torch and i was planning on torching the bolt but was afraid it was gonna get more stuck. The bolt i'm trying to pull out is the subframe bolt of the LCA. It's seized and i tried impacting it and it won't come out.

 

You're correct. The idea is to apply heat to the nut, not the bolt. In the case of the LCA subframe bolt it would be the "captured" nut that is attached to the subframe at the mounting point. A small amount of heat will allow more clearance for penetrating oil to wick into the threads. That may require some patience to allow the oil to soak in. A large amount of expansion can expand the nut to the point that the rusted threads break loose entirely.

However, applying heat to the nut won't help if the bolt is siezed in the bushing sleeve. If that's the case it may be necessary to sacrifice the bolt and bushing.

 

Thank you so much GoGreen, for the quick reply. I will keep that in mind and just invest in skunk2 special edition lca's.

 

just take it to a shop so they can blast it. im sure they'll just do it for free....we'll i've never had to pay for anything when getting a bolt loosened up