Hello all at HT! I have been a lurker for some time now and it turns out now I need your help..

What I have is a 92 Civic hatch with a B16 swap. Fancy, I know. I had a homemade turbo kit pieced together using a RB25 Skyline turbo. The turbo was ball bearing, and decided to f*ck up, and send shrapnel into my engine. Turns out, when you get metal pieces into rod bearings, they like to die.No more turbo for me..for now, NA is best!

SO..I have done some searching, and I am open to opinion. I want to get the car going again. Unfortunately, a college student, I don't have much money. The B16 head is fine, transmission is fine. I was thinking about B20 vtec swap, or ls/vtec. That could be cheaper, since I need bearings, atleast one rod, machine work, ect. I could get around $800 or so to get it going again. Opinions, please!

 

Lsvtec.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

college student? not much money? broken B16?

you need to find a cheap B16 shortblock, drop the head on it and finish school. f uck trying to build a motor in a car you need to get to class and back.

 

^What he said. You can find good running b16a shortblocks for $300 all day long.

 

I read the reliable ls/vtec thread, and it was very good. I am not wanting to do a full build, just get it back on the road. I have another car (V6 F150 ftl) to drive, so that is not a problem. I can find, locally, more ls motors than B16. Thats what happens when you live in SC.. I can manage a block, either way. Could I reuse my B16 pistons, or would ls pistons with b16 head give good-ish high compression. I have some money to mess with, just not much. I am thinking ls block/crank with sir or ctr pistons..clean block, surface block and head, hone cylinders..MAYBE new bearings. Done for around 800?

Feedback much appreciated!

 

I say b16 block again. if you are really looking for the cheapest route

 

With an ls block and those pistons you will need a good tune, tuning = cash. So, unless you have a programmable ecu already and can street tune, stick with the b16 block. If you have all of this, still stick with the b16 because you said you are broke. less hassle = less money

 

Yeah, for "tuning" the only thing I have is a VAFC laying around...somewhere. Dyno work does cost a bit. So factory ecu wouldn't work at all? Damn..

 

If a B16 short block is available for $300 like someone said, do it. Just check clearances on the oil pump, put a new water pump...yadda yadda yadda, everyone knows.

 

i would go with a b20 block i got one in my civic and never had any problems out of it

 

lmao fred flinstone it... but b20vtec

 

But, tater and gearhead, what to do for tuning? Would a factory 1.6 vtec ecu "work" a 2.0, or even 1.8 vtec? The car was former turbo, so I got a 255 walbro, adjustable fuel regulator, and some new 340cc injectors. I just don't want to dyno, right now.

And I did search, and found a few 1.6 short blocks. The thing is guys, shipping is not included with the "like $300." Saw some on ebay, atleast $200 for shipping alone. I could rebuild what I got for less...

The block appears fine, but the crank is bad. I got a buddy with a b16 crank. I need some used rods, but this kit on ebay comes with Nippon pistons, all bearings, gaskets, ect. Those pistons seem ok, coated skirts and all. That would give me mostly new, freshened up bottom end. Just clean the newer crank and check the block. Factory ecu ftw.

Has anyone done ls/vtec with a stock ecu? Does it run like ****?

 

yea man u can still use the stock ecu it runs just fine

 

Wow so a 1.6 and a 2 liter require the exact same amount of fuel? Damn, everyone else is doing it wrong.

If you're going to use the stock ecu just keep the engine stock too.

 

A straight B16 motor by itself should fetch for 750-900 depending on where you source it.

As others have said though the block/rotating assembly can be had for 150-250 ....take the head off and pull the old block out....replace with used block in decent shape.

Glad your head was okay....would have been more expensive to fix aka replace the entire motor lol.

The B16 block plus labor should be affordable enough to get you back on the road.....if your gonna swap anything in NA should be an H or a K....B is too small in the end.

Best of luck

PS no more mickey mouse turbo setups

 

D16 it and call it a day.

 

I guess thats what happens when you buy a used turbo. I got the money back from it (Paypal ftw!) I had to clean EVERYTHING, new o2 sensor, plugs, remove intake mani and tb, oh god it smoked for weeks through the exhaust. The oil leaked on both sides of chra.

The setup was fine, just relied on a used turbo, bought online. It didn't have shaft play, and a oil restrictor was used. Was probably boosted to hell before sold to me. Had new fuel injectors, and awaiting a simple dyno tune with S100. Then the 1st turbo went bad, from a RB20. Replaced with a RB25, and it was fukt to start with. Apparently they aren't rebuildable. SO I said screw it. But damage was done.

So, no mickey mouse turbo setups, just mickey mouse turbos..

I think I will keep it a B16, no ls or B20. I found a good spare b16 rod, and am getting a crank from VegasHB. I will buy some pistons and bearings next week. Damn I want a B20vtec...just funds won't work right now. No money for tuning or to do more building, as I hear ls and b20 rods suck. Oh, well. I'll yabba dabba doo the next car then..