Any reason why my engine wont move after i replaced the main and rod bearings? Im pretty sure it has something to do with my rod bearings, but i torqued them all to spec, and in the correct steps.

 

oil clearence problem?

 

start untorquing the rods and spin the crank every time you un torque one, when it starts to spin freely you found your issue, if it does not move continue to the mains

 

measure your clearances. chances are, bearings are too tight

 

Yea, bearing clearance would be my bet. Did you use OEM in the correct size?

 

You may have mixed up the rod caps. Check to see if you lined up the notches that are on the bearings to see if they are on the same side.

 

Improper oil clearance, bent crank, mis-aligned mains, mixed main and rod caps in any combo can cause this. Has everything been checked out by a machine shop?

 

+1 on the oil clearances

 

Ovbiously the clearences are way to tight.Shoulda seen that by hand turning the motor over.

 

what are the tq specs you used? take it all apart, make sure the rod caps are matched up right with their rods and make sure none are on backwards.

 

1) Try sizing your bearings correctly... The bearings may be too tight...Use a micrometer gauge to measure journal size and a dial bore gauge to measure the big end, inside diameter of the rod... Find the difference of the two values you get, then find the correct size bearings that will put you in OEM honda bearing oil clearance specs... Or take to it someone who can assist you if you don't have access to these tools or if your a bit sceptical about doing it yourself...
2) As stated before make sure that your caps (rod & main) are aligned properly... The keys in the caps and rods are to be on the same side (exhaust side of the piston)
I honestly believe that your bearing clearance (rod or main or both) are way too tight... If you loosen the main cap bolts and the crank spins, then your main bearing size needs to be adjust... Do the same for the rods....

 

I think this is all pretty obvious. You built the motor half assed, and now look where your at.

Use green plastigauge, at minimum, to always double check what your doing. If you KNEW what your clearances were, there'd by no question. With the motor locked, you may have already possible scarred the bearings or the surface of the crank.

I disagree ENTIRELY with slowly loosening one rod at a time until it spins, then going from there. You need to disassemble the entire bottom end, and reassemble it properly so that your sure of all the clearances period. Just because the bottom end spins certainly doesn't mean you have everything else in spec. You could have a clearance at .003...the bottom will spin just fine, but watch your motor **** itself shortly. Do it the right way.

 

i absolutely built this motor half-assed. I was contemplating just junking the motor soon as i spun the bearing. I decided to just slap some bearings in hoping it would give me a quick fix. It obviously didnt work out the way i wanted, but I do not feel like putting the time and effort in to rebuild this motor.

All its for is my beater, I will not race it. I just want good fuel economy. THATS IT!

Now my plan is to sell the head, and scrap the rest hopefully i will have enough to buy a POS ls motor. I did have a civic sitting around i was gonna steal the motor out of, but i had someone offer me 1500 for a wrecked civic, so i took it.

 

why do people even bother replying to these threads. just more backyard hack job cluttering up the forum

 

+1

 

Everyone uses the excuse that it's a "beater" motor, or a "beater" car and who cares. Why bother in the first place then? Build a beater, that's fine, but take 20 extra minutes to at least plastigauge the sh*t, it's not a big deal....lol. Now, instead of spending a little time doing it right, you'll get a junk LS that runs. All that tells me is that your defeated and shouldn't have had your hands in a "rebuild" (using that term loosely) in the first place.

Step up, suck it up and do it again the right way to prove you can and stop bein a p*ssy.

 

i am praying to the lord above that he forgets to put his thrust washers in and asks why his clutch feels so funny. i would laugh til my ***** fell off.

 

those little arrows on the main caps are there for a reason and they should all being pointing towards the timing belt. good luck

 

like i stated earlier, i planned to do a different motor soon as i spun a bearing. Plasitigauging wouldnt have done **** in my case. my crank is fuked up. To do it right, i should have got the crank machined, as well as having the rods rebored. Then i would have used higher quality bearings then advanced auto parts.

I gave this idea, a shot. It didnt work, ill be the first to admit it. Now i will either buy a new motor, or rebuild this motor the correct way. regardless of what i do, it doesnt matter to any of you. I can take a year on this build if i need to, because its just my beater.

A "beater" definition will vary to different people, To me, it means do as little as possible to make it run, hell it doesnt even have to be very reliable, just get it to run. Well thats how i was treating it. I never once came in here asking how to rebuild this motor the 100% correct way.

hey BTW, YOUR= property YOU'RE= YOU ARE, learn the difference

 

not trying to be rude here but it would of been nice of you to let everyone know you half assed this bearing job before you asked questions.