How much battery voltage/amp leakage allowed?
My 89 crx si with a ZC swap is running sweet! The car sat for a while before the project was completed and I wonder if I killed the battery from just sitting to long (9 months) and now it wont hold a charge because the battery goes flat in a day or so.
When a voltage detector light is placed in line on the negative battery terminal there is a dim but steady pulse which i believe is the on board clock. When I disconect the fuse to the clock, the light goes dimmer and the pulse disappers but a slight current drain is still there. I pulled all the remaing fuses and the dim light was still present. When i disconnect the plug in the upper LH face of the fuse panel all evidence of volt drainage stop. I don't know what current leakage is allowed, if any, or what volt drainage is desingned into the system.
Can anyone shed some light on this or point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
When a voltage detector light is placed in line on the negative battery terminal there is a dim but steady pulse which i believe is the on board clock. When I disconect the fuse to the clock, the light goes dimmer and the pulse disappers but a slight current drain is still there. I pulled all the remaing fuses and the dim light was still present. When i disconnect the plug in the upper LH face of the fuse panel all evidence of volt drainage stop. I don't know what current leakage is allowed, if any, or what volt drainage is desingned into the system.
Can anyone shed some light on this or point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
^Ignore this
typical drain on our cars should be under .05A with the key off and all accessories off. You may have to wait 20-30 secs for the ECU to shut down. Some aftermarket radios have a high amp draw w/ key off.
Do you have access to a battery load tester? Another way to test for a dead battery is to hook a multimeter up to the battery and start the car. Watch the meter and see how low the voltage drops when turning the starter. Anything under 9V(with a good charged battery) is recommended to be replaced.
typical drain on our cars should be under .05A with the key off and all accessories off. You may have to wait 20-30 secs for the ECU to shut down. Some aftermarket radios have a high amp draw w/ key off.
Do you have access to a battery load tester? Another way to test for a dead battery is to hook a multimeter up to the battery and start the car. Watch the meter and see how low the voltage drops when turning the starter. Anything under 9V(with a good charged battery) is recommended to be replaced.
^Ignore this
typical drain on our cars should be under .05A with the key off and all accessories off. You may have to wait 20-30 secs for the ECU to shut down. Some aftermarket radios have a high amp draw w/ key off.
Do you have access to a battery load tester? Another way to test for a dead battery is to hook a multimeter up to the battery and start the car. Watch the meter and see how low the voltage drops when turning the starter. Anything under 9V(with a good charged battery) is recommended to be replaced.
typical drain on our cars should be under .05A with the key off and all accessories off. You may have to wait 20-30 secs for the ECU to shut down. Some aftermarket radios have a high amp draw w/ key off.
Do you have access to a battery load tester? Another way to test for a dead battery is to hook a multimeter up to the battery and start the car. Watch the meter and see how low the voltage drops when turning the starter. Anything under 9V(with a good charged battery) is recommended to be replaced.
look it up
Thank you gunmetal, that was exactly what i was looking for. I checked the amperage draw key out and it was .031 amps. with the aftermaket stereo the draw was 2.1 key off. That higher draw in conjunction with a weaker batt that won't maintain a charge was the problem.
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miguey310 you are fail you can have all the voltage you want but without amps you are going no where go back to autozone.
to op your battery is sulfated if you have acees to a battery charger do a quick charge test or replace battery
to op your battery is sulfated if you have acees to a battery charger do a quick charge test or replace battery
Last edited by dacrxguy; Aug 24, 2009 at 06:03 PM.
op, you nailed it.. if that stereo was left in and was drawing 2.1 amps the whole time, that is MORE than enough to kill the battery over 9 months.
A really simple way to prove it is to figure out the Amp/hour rating of your battery, which is generally printed on the battery somewhere. then you can figure out roughly how long your battery will last by using the formula
amp hour rating of battery / observed parasitic amp draw = time in hours your battery will stay "charged"
for your example, assuming you have a 200 amp hour battery and a 2.1 amp draw from the stereo, you get
200 / 2.1 = 95.xx hours
or about 4 days. So your battery died roughly only 4 days after you parked the car, assuming the stereo was installed at that point. environmental factors also affect the numbers, but as a rough estimate, that equation above will hold true.
A really simple way to prove it is to figure out the Amp/hour rating of your battery, which is generally printed on the battery somewhere. then you can figure out roughly how long your battery will last by using the formula
amp hour rating of battery / observed parasitic amp draw = time in hours your battery will stay "charged"
for your example, assuming you have a 200 amp hour battery and a 2.1 amp draw from the stereo, you get
200 / 2.1 = 95.xx hours
or about 4 days. So your battery died roughly only 4 days after you parked the car, assuming the stereo was installed at that point. environmental factors also affect the numbers, but as a rough estimate, that equation above will hold true.
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