Hey There!! I got a 95hatch with a 95 gsr. It has about 115k on motor. I race is once in a while and it runs ok/fine. Has no cel lights or noises. I have raced a couple acura's gsr and i know that I should smash on them cuz i'm lighter. They ether hold up or after 3rd gear they take me.

My mods::

stock gsr

short ram

street legit 4-2-1 dc headers

2.25in exhaust with gsr cat and tsudo res. to a ES tuning exhaust

tire size 195/55/r15


The guys I raced had also an exhaust and a short ram and headers. I mean i shifted all good and smashed hard but I just think my eg/gsr is not running 100% right and not outputting full power. I have never opened the motor. Did not play around with timing. Seems like it sorta lags when it comes to integra's beating me. I technically can have no mods and should still beat them since I am lighter.

Should i tune it?

Any clue besides adding more upgrades?

 

no one????

No clue?

 

a tune does sound like a good idea. what ecu are you running? you probably just need a new basemap to support the higher air flow created with the intake and exhaust. it is more then likely lacking some fuel.

 

A good dyno tune is going to get you about 5-10 whp on a stock motor. You will likely pick up quite a bit throughout the midrange. Honda's basemaps are very conservative throughout the midrange, and a dyno tune will usually make the car much more peppy feeling. You will also typically get better gas mileage due to fuel tuning in the low load cells.

 

no no no no, do a compression check. check the basics, leak down test and so on. check timing, if wiring is correct on your pressure switch (if it's a us motor) and things like that. your don't need a tune unless there is a reason to tune it like cams or boost or something

 

Not true

 

i wouldn't spend 300-400 dollars on a dyno tune + street tune (you need both) unless there was a better reason for it then "it lags a little bit"

check the basics first

 

agreed, there should be no need for a tune with I/H/E, it shouldnt be lacking fuel from that, you most likely have another problem.

 

I have everything stock the ecu is p72 gsr

 

cool a compression test sounds good

"if wiring is correct on your pressure switch" What you mean? the motor is US


I used a timing gun for my timing and it was good

we did it on my buddies gsr but i'm not sure if we did it right. we spun the engine till the needle on the gauge stopped. Aren't we supposed to spin the engine only like 3-4 times? my buddy got a reading of 215, 210 around that (but he had p73 type-r pistons)

 

when you do a compression check unplug the green plug by your ecu, it will disconnect the fuel pump (you don't want fuel spraying while turning the motor) hold throttle wide open and turn motor about 8-9 times. a healthy gs-r can be around 230-245 in each cylinder

i suggested checking wiring to pressure switch and what not to insure it was engaging

 

k thanks I usually disconect the main plug near the distributor but i'll check out the green plug.

what pressure switch are you talking about??

 

We did that when it had like 400 miles on the pistons and rings so it wasnt set in fully. Wen we did a compresion test when the engine had 1400 miles on the rebuild the psi was in the 230s.

Expecting to take stock gsrs on my gsr with 4-1 headers, full 2.5 inch catback with an es mufler etc etc. I was wrong. I raced an 2001 gsr stock engine, kn&n filter, 2.25 exhaust to replica n1. He puled me about 2.5 cars.
I was shoked because i wasted alot of time puting them P73s in and the results were slower then with stock P72 pistons.
Can someone tell me whats wrong. I tink that my stock gsr catalyc is puting to much back presure on the engine and resulting in **** poor performance.
Sorry for jacking ure tread lol

 

nice hatch

 

vtec pressure switch

 

well my vtec engages I hear it kick in and the secondaries after 6k rpm

you mean the pressure might be low or something??

 

if it wasn't engaging vtec but nevermind doesn't sound like it's the problem