Hey guys I've been really thinking about a few things setup wise lately. I have an H2 prepped DC running a GSR. The suspension is otc Koni yellows 1000f/1200r jdm ITR front and rear bars. Running 0 toe f / 1/8 toe in r 3 deg f camber an 2 deg r. I'm running a roadracegear ft splitter and an apr GT200 wing.

Last month at VIR the car felt very stable everywhere. But in T2, T3 and T15 it gave me a bit of a problem withonpower understeer. I'm not sure where to start. T2 seems to be the bigest problem as its a very long turn and I think with a bit more steering I would quite abit quicker.

Also if there is any books fwd setup I might be able to purchase please let me know.

 

I'd try dropping the front rates down to 800lbs or so....

Seems like 1k is a little much.

 

+1

 

Car weight? What kind of tires and size? Air pressure? What kind of Differential do you use?

Sounds like a decent setup to me,you just need a small adjustment here and there.FWD naturally have an on power push, you will always have some sort of on throttle understeer. That said, On power push is because of too much rear weight transfer,so softening the front will help only so much in on power situations. I run the same spring rates but a very different alignment,in a 2500lb H1 car.

Can you stand on your splitter with out damaging it? if you can not, it is useless. I can stand completely on my SPMS splitter and watch the car go up and down.

I learned quickly, no book or persons advice can suppliment seat time and your own feel.I say just keep driving it for now,you will know exactly what you need eventually.

 

OTC koni...like the standard over the counter ones? Have they been revalved? 8041 race? I think that the 800/1000 might be a little much for the standard street shocks.

 

Yeah I was told that they are the street based yellows. I was thinking that they could be a problem.

I am on 225/45/15 RA1s, at 2400lb using an ITR diff

No I can't stand on my splitter. But I am redesigning it soon.

This will sound very stupid but the understeer realy gets bad when vtec kicks in.

 

Good catch,for some reason I totally missed that otc part.. I would agree,the shocks need to be valved for the spring rates before anything I said above.That could be a world of difference,I know from experience what valving properly and having the correct droop can do.

 

also to go off of jw.s post earlier. if it is only in certain corners and not others then maybe using a different line and/or technique would help in those certain corners.

 

Shock valving plus this:
What line are you taking currently? I was at one point taking a somewhat different line there than a few of the other Honda guys, and pulled away pretty good. Understeer was their problem as well, especially in T2. A line adjustment fixed everything for them.

 

I'm clipsing the apex of T1 and tracking out thru T2. I try to let the car go about 4-5 feet off the edge of the pavement. Then back across the track aim at the tech shed at T3. And I did play with the line and I could not run the same line I did with my old 96 RS. Power and the increased speed is very noticeable. I'm just looking for just a bit more on power steering. And I will try to get with the guy who built the car and check on the valving of the shocks.

 

If you apex T1 a little later, that should make for a straighter line through T2 and coming into that "kink" before T3. It should also involve not necessarily tracking ALL the way out to the left. Do check on the shocks though, that could be a very big part of the problem.

 

Yeah I'm thinking they are just OTC yellows. If they are the off season is coming up so I can send them back to Lee at Koni and have them revalved.

 

do you have video?, we may be able to see something.

 

No I didnt take any video last month but will hopefully in October and have a traqmate in the car. And thanx Stinks as looking back I may have been turning in a little bit earlier than I was with my other car. I remember trying to work on my breaking zone because this car is definatly faster on the straights than my old intrgra. I plan on brining a note book and taking a few minuets to write down my thoughts on each session and compair that to the data and video. Last month I just had perma grin on my face because the car is just so fun and I cant wait to get out on track "racing"!!!!!

 

Are you doing the comp school soon? Not sure if you know him, but Sander in the black Integra (K20 right now) should be getting his license early next year to run H2.

 

1. 1000lb/in front springs is no where near too stiff for a 2400lb car on r-comps. Especially if that isn't weight without driver.
2. It sounds like you've got a bit much rear camber for low speed balance. Sounds like the aero may be loosening the car up, or it's just tight everywhere but you don't notice it because you aren't accelerating as hard in the higher gears. (not familiar with VIR, so I'm not sure if those corners are slow 2nd or 3rd gear corners)
3. With the amount of spring and bar you have in the car, spring de-coupling is going to be a major issue for you. Especially bad when you use a torsen style diff.
4. You need better shocks. For those spring rates, mono-tube is the way to go.

 

Nate, just FYI, T2 should be 3rd gear, mid-speed (65-75mph at exit?), T3 should be 3rd or 4th gear depending on trans, also mid-speed. T2 is a 180* right hander, kinda sorta increasing radius (but definitely kind of wide and long; not a tight 180* hairpin). T3 is roughly a 90* left hander. Both are flat, with T2 having just a tiny bit of camber dropping off on the outside at exit. http://www.virnow.com/images/stories...rse_simple.jpg For track map.

 

I would adjust alignment to -3.7 camber front, -1.6 to -1.8 rear.

 

Thanx for the replys gang. Here is my question now.. As my shocks appear to be plain jane koni yellows so what are the groups thought on PIC's with similar rates? Or do I drop the coin on revalving or dig deep and get a set of 8212's?

 

slammed93hatch has a set of 8011's for sale I think.

 

3011's, and I'd highly recommend them. I bought mine through Andrie Hartanto, I've been running them all year, and I'm extremely happy. Thanks Andrie and Prima Racing.

 

If I were u I would either get PIC's or revalved Koni Yellows.
If u want to spend approx $500 per shock, go ahead and get the Koni 3011.

 

Yeah as I'm on a budget its will probably be better for me to sell what I have and pick up a set of PIC's. I'm figuring that revavling is going to be in the range of $150-$175 per shock. And if I sell my shocks with a set of 350lb and 400lb springs to a local honda guy for $700 (I have the top hats too) and sell the 1000 and 1200 springs for $60 a pair I'd be about $200 ahead of the game.

I'm going to do some more research on the PIC's. If I remember right Chad has been running them for a while, and Matt Lang ran them as well. I'll see what I can dig up.

Thanx again guys and if I can I post up a vid and hopefully Data from NASA's October event.

 

Ok let me just ask real quick the PIC setup they sell runs 12K Front and 14K Rear thats only a 672LB Front and 784LB Rear. Now I'm confused. I could run those rates on the OTC Konis I have will no problem. Anyone have thought, or been in this same place and have a recomendation.

 

Why would you go softer? Would you like to continue using the 1000/1200 rates you have currently? I recommend trying Progress,they will build shocks for your desired rates,custom! To add to that,they are very affordable and you would be surprised at what you get for the money.They are often overlooked and very under-rated.
PM me if you are interested and I can give you a lead.