slammed_93_hatch

Go with the Koni's (race valved, or 3011 both are great).

Save your money, and make the correct purchase one time instead of trying 3 or 4 cheaper products and in the end spending much much more.

vbspec

How do these shocks mount? If I remember correctly the have eyelets on both ends. If that is too basic of a question I will try to search when I get in front of my PC.

solo-x

Koni sells them with adapters to work with the Honda suspension. They'd bolt up nearly like stock.

slammed_93_hatch

front
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

rear
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

zum78spd

Hi guys, I'm looking for a good starting point as well. I would like to convert to coilovers from Koni Yellows/GC for a 1997 EK coupe. I originally built the car for the street, but would like to get into road racing now. What's a good set of coilovers that will last me a while and perform great on the track, mostly SOW since it's closest to me?

vbspec

Sorry if I sound like a dick but if you search or even read this post its listed and there are a few set ups. I asked a specific question regurding a specific set of corners.

Dont take this the wrong way but your question is asked every week. So dont try to hijack my thread.

The moderator Mr SinkyCheeseMonkey Said just 6 days ago
"Understand two things here please. First, PROPERLY searching is the way to find what you want. Like I said in my other post, I absolutely guarantee the information is available here. I've seen it and read it many times. Following the Search rules (in that link I posted, which was somehow unstickied from here) will guide you in the best way to accomplish that.

Second, and I mean this in a nice way, if you don't have time to scroll through search results, what makes you think we do? A lot of the information we'll regurgitate is from reading stuff over the years. Again, nicely, we don't spoonfeed you here."


Again not to be a dick I would just like to kee this on topic.

Slammed... Am I looking at $400-$600 per shock (3011)? I cant seem to find it listed anywhere. I dont mind spending the $. I could pick up a set of SPSS3's tomorrow but if the 3011's are worth the difference then I'll wait. I only have one more event planed for this year.

beanbag

I'm pretty sure that the 3011's are much better than the spss3's, and I haven't even used either shock. I could go into the reasons why, but that doesn't seem to be valued here as much as 3011 owners saying how awesome they are.

slammed_93_hatch

You would spend around $2,000 to $2,200 (shipping, taxes, ect ect..) for a set with spring perchs (the 3011's are a unique OD and koni is the only one who makes them).


The SPSS3s are around $1,200-$1,300 you would use your perchers from the "yellows".


IMO 8041-RACE with the SPSS3 valving are the bare minimum that a person racing would want to start out with. They are simple, work good, and last a long time.

The 3011 is the next step up, but you get a HOLE lot more shock for the ~$800 to ~$1,000 more you are spending. They are just as easy to adjust, the "how to" from koni is a great guide, work amazingly and last a VERY long time.



I had the 8041 spss3 and switched to the 3011s and thought it was money well spent.

slammed_93_hatch

And do you REALLY think some one who was running on OTS sports, didn't really know it was a bad idea, and came to the HT RR/AX forum to get advice would understand/grasp the differences/benefits?


And that is no dig at vbspec.

vbspec

No offense taken Jimmy.

Now to clarify I actually forgot about the shocks. The guy who built the car only cut 2 corners. ES bushings (hardrace sphericals are to be my Xmas present from the wife) and the shocks. I had a set of stage 3 truechoice single adjustables on my old car and have the SPSS3's on my CRX autocross car. So I understand the differences. And I have followed all of you shock dyno threads beanbag. I wish I had the time to study up on shocks to understand every aspect of shocks but my racing goals are to just have fun. I don't have the time to study up on all of the theory and physics. But I do understand the basics even thought I may not be able to use the right jargon when I speak.

I do appreciate all of the help. Now to get off of the shocks that are currently on the car. Let's just say they have been revalved to the "race" valving. To get a little more low speed steering what would you do?

vbspec

Sorry to bump this thread...

I just got done doing a nut and bolt check on my car and I took the time to look at the shocks myself. Well I do have the "race" shocks on the car 8041 1152 Race front and 8041 1153 Race rear. And the spring rates are only 800 F and 1200 R. My notes from the purchase do say OTC yellows with 1000 F/ 1200 R.

So other than looking real hard at my line dose anyone have any tuning ideas to help with an on power push?

Thanx for all the help gang!

Egezzy

iTrader: (2)

if i were you...i would work on those lines through those corners. if you..i lol..still have the problems then i would adjust the chassis specifically. also think to that with these chassis adjustments you might loosen the car up too much for your liking in other areas of the track.

beanbag

Perhaps less gas?

Stinkycheezmonky

800 and 1200 seems like a pretty big spread on spring rates. Have you fiddled with shock adjustments? I could see something being related to that to keep the rear in check, but... I'm most inclined to believe it should still be a line adjustment more than anything else.

Stinkycheezmonky

Honestly, no reason for an H2 car to not be 100% on the throttle through T2. I can see H1 needing a little pedal modulation, but not so much for H2. Early-ish turn in plus a good amount of power just sounds like a recipe for understeer to me.

slammed_93_hatch

I ran a similiar setup, and would get a mid to exit push about half way through the race.

Think about what's happening, to cause the push...

Think about adjustments that might solve this and then think about how that adjustment might do to other areas...

Fastom

Exactly Jimmy !

Everythink is easier with a little extra thought.