ground control coilovers
Hi all @ HT
i need help and feedback about the ground control coilovers...
ı have the intend to use gc coils with stock shocks....
what r u guys thinking about this combo any opinions or experiences with it ?
i need help and feedback about the ground control coilovers...
ı have the intend to use gc coils with stock shocks....
what r u guys thinking about this combo any opinions or experiences with it ?
my car is totaly stock for now...ı wanna drop it about 1,5 inches....but first off all before i buy it ı wanna know how is the ride quality....?? hope it's not so stiff...??
coilover springs are usually a lot stiffer than your regular lowering spring, so you will blow your stock shocks after a while. Maybe even right away if you lower the car a lot.
If you want to keep your stock shocks, then you have to get a very mild lowering spring, no coilovers.
but GC's can have a decent ride, as long as you don't get super stiff spring rates, and you pair them with decent shocks that can handle the new spring rate.
If you want to keep your stock shocks, then you have to get a very mild lowering spring, no coilovers.
but GC's can have a decent ride, as long as you don't get super stiff spring rates, and you pair them with decent shocks that can handle the new spring rate.
what is it you want to hear?
ground control sells custom rates. how it rides, handles and everything else are directly impacted by the rate you choose. if you have stock shocks and want a mild drop order 300f in an 8" spring and 250R in a 7" or 8" spring out back. those rates are a bit more firm that factory but won't blow stock shocks as long as you don't get excessive with the drop
ground control sells custom rates. how it rides, handles and everything else are directly impacted by the rate you choose. if you have stock shocks and want a mild drop order 300f in an 8" spring and 250R in a 7" or 8" spring out back. those rates are a bit more firm that factory but won't blow stock shocks as long as you don't get excessive with the drop
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you ever notice how some springs feel stiffer than others? well they rate them in various ways. pounds per inch simply means that it takes X number of pounds to compress the spring one inch. the factory rates are something like 250LB/IN up front and 120LB/IN out back. with your ground controls you move the rates up slightly, like i was saying 300lb/in front and 250lb/in out back. as long as you don't go lower than a two finger gap they will live for quite awhile.
stock rates on an EF are more like 150-160 lb/in up front and like 80-90 in the rear. 300 lb/in is going to be quite a bit stiffer. factory rates are no where near 250. For reference, the 94-01 integra GSR's rates were 200/100 F/R.
the front dc2 rate is something like 248, 258lb?, the rear is 110 if i remember right. {actual rates are all posted on team integra} the itr uses a progressive to get similar front and rear rates. 300/250 is the same rate as the dc2 tein h tech lowering spring which a person can use on stock shocks with zero issues. as long as you don't slam it the rear rate increase just dials out some of the factory understeer.
you ever notice how some springs feel stiffer than others? well they rate them in various ways. pounds per inch simply means that it takes X number of pounds to compress the spring one inch. the factory rates are something like 250LB/IN up front and 120LB/IN out back. with your ground controls you move the rates up slightly, like i was saying 300lb/in front and 250lb/in out back. as long as you don't go lower than a two finger gap they will live for quite awhile.
the factory rates are not that high . The ITR was about 250/250, linear rate up front, progressive in the rear. The H&R OE springs I had on my GSR were 280/190 and they were considerably stiffer than the stock springs, so I don't believe the stock GSR rates were 250+.
I did a quick search on team integra (and a couple of other sites) and came across this info on both:
There is a wheel rate thread on team integra, and that guy posts some different numbers, but they are still close to above, at 212/117 lb/in on a stock integra.
I did a quick search on team integra (and a couple of other sites) and came across this info on both:
For 96-00 Civics (EJ6-8 and EM1 chassis codes)
96-00 EX - 165F/80R (P/P)
99-00 Si (EM1) - 201F/99.8R (P/P)
97, 00-01 ITR - 250F/250R (L/P)
GS-R - 200F/95R (P/P)
CTR - 240/240 (L/P)
L = Linear, P = Progressive rate
96-00 EX - 165F/80R (P/P)
99-00 Si (EM1) - 201F/99.8R (P/P)
97, 00-01 ITR - 250F/250R (L/P)
GS-R - 200F/95R (P/P)
CTR - 240/240 (L/P)
L = Linear, P = Progressive rate
the factory rates are not that high . The ITR was about 250/250, linear rate up front, progressive in the rear. The H&R OE springs I had on my GSR were 280/190 and they were considerably stiffer than the stock springs, so I don't believe the stock GSR rates were 250+.
I did a quick search on team integra (and a couple of other sites) and came across this info on both:
There is a wheel rate thread on team integra, and that guy posts some different numbers, but they are still close to above, at 212/117 lb/in on a stock integra.
I did a quick search on team integra (and a couple of other sites) and came across this info on both:
There is a wheel rate thread on team integra, and that guy posts some different numbers, but they are still close to above, at 212/117 lb/in on a stock integra.
i'd prefer the gc/koni since you get a better shock and adjustable rates. however, you're now at least talking about two quality choices. the pics would probably be better for a really low ride since they offer the ability to go down without touching preload. the koni/gc combo can be the better of the two on the track but aren't really designed to go under a 1 finger or maybe flush gap
i'd prefer the gc/koni since you get a better shock and adjustable rates. however, you're now at least talking about two quality choices. the pics would probably be better for a really low ride since they offer the ability to go down without touching preload. the koni/gc combo can be the better of the two on the track but aren't really designed to go under a 1 finger or maybe flush gap
watch this skunk video, they show you what i'm talking about so you can see it with your own eyes
http://www.skunk2.com/skunk2_video.php?code=COVC
gc koni are full bodied coilovers, well, like tein coilovers. see the pic's, skunk c's and a few others use a screw in adjustment that lets you lower ride height without touching preload. this lets you drop a car and maintain shock travel. with koni, tein and other coilovers that use preload lowering, you lower right into shock travel. you can really help this out with extended top hats or honda mounts as the guys at GC call them. it buys you around one more inch of travel.
watch this skunk video, they show you what i'm talking about so you can see it with your own eyes
http://www.skunk2.com/skunk2_video.php?code=COVC
watch this skunk video, they show you what i'm talking about so you can see it with your own eyes
http://www.skunk2.com/skunk2_video.php?code=COVC
it's not really ride better, it's perform better. i still don't know what "ride good" means when people say things like this. how a car rides is so subjective. i would have to see the car and what it runs into. i know with the extended top hats you can get pretty low with the konis if for some reason you want to do that. it's just the pic or pro c design is a better one for people who run really low
it's not really ride better, it's perform better. i still don't know what "ride good" means when people say things like this. how a car rides is so subjective. i would have to see the car and what it runs into. i know with the extended top hats you can get pretty low with the konis if for some reason you want to do that. it's just the pic or pro c design is a better one for people who run really low
i think you would be happier with the pic setup since it will maintain shock travel as you sound like you want to run pretty low. i'm telling you though. the first time you run a rough road at high speed you're going to scare yourself
Yeah i've been following your posts lately and it's making me rethink it more and more. A flush stance wouldn't be too bad then would it? I'd still be able to have good handling with that right?
it all depends on what you're after, this is my car on koni/gc, the suspension works GREAT at this ride height. i could probably go a hair {half inch} lower if i wanted to and still maintain a great balance. i have a couple of different sets of wheels, these are rays 17s


