I have 2 old garrett t3's that I'm using to rebuild into one good t3. One turbo uses a Carbon Seal like on the left of pic. The other uses a Dynamic Seal like on the right of pic. I'm guessing the Dynamic seal is the way to go?

 

not related to the post. but how the hell are you man?

I have a t3 48/63 that I am running now. What are the specs on the turbo you are rebuilding?

 

you need to open your turbo to determine which it has

 

Shaun - doin good, how about yourself?? I'm so close to getting the hatch done and my turbo blew a seal and compressor & turbine contacted the housings.

I have a t3 60 trim that just **** on me and a t3 super 60 with a chipped fin on the turbine that i have had sitting around.

I have a new stage 1 turbine on the way... I'm going to use the hot side from the super 60 (since it was better)and the cool side from the 60 trim (since it was in nicer shape).

I have 2 center sections, one water cooled which is in slightly better condition. And the other is just oil. I may add the water lines eventually... kinda lazy about running them all the way from the water pipe on the back of the block... may try something with heater lines since I ditched my heat.

I've wanted to boost my hatch ever since that time I drove your turbo'd sol... 7 years later I am finally there lol

Had it on the dyno but kept losing spark around 5k.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWoY-OS49cQ Called it a night after that.
Put in some NGK 8's a few days later and it woke right up - blew off something different every time I went around the block. Last time around it blew the turbo
A good reason to learn how to rebuild a turbo I guess...

B20beast, re-read the first post. I have 1 of each, wanting to know which is better. it seems that the dynamic is a newer design, I suppose I'll use that one.

 

here is my bad boy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2F3T9hhOM0


I hope you get yours squared away soon.

as for water lines have you seen the piece that sandwiches in between the coolant spout (with bleeder valve) and the block? it has threaded openings for water feed lines. I'm trying to find a link

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/i...ide/index.html
second item down.

D-Series Water Port Adapter
Tuner Toys has come up with the cleanest way to tap into your D-series engine's cooling system. Its new Water Port Adapter provides two additional locations for tapping into your Honda's engine coolant. Utilize the 31/48-inch NPT and 11/42-inch NPT ports to install temperature gauge sending units, turbo coolant return lines or whatever else you need. This adapter is precision machined from 6061 aluminum stock and comes with all needed hardware for installation. Tuner Toys even includes a threaded plug for each port, allowing you to plug off either one.
www.tunertoys.com

 

You can convert it from one to the other, but you need to use the proper backplate. Both seals can use the same CHRA and turbine shafts, at least all the units I've seen.

THe problem with mixing 2 turbos is the need to rebalance afterwards. A few places will do it for under $100. The other BIG problem is that generic seal kits don't always work. Sometimes the housings/backplates that create the seal will also be the problem, and you need a slightly oversized ring to work. I haven't encountered many people who rebuilt their own blown turbos with success. Maybe 1 in 5 are successful.

 

really? I have had pretty good luck then