hey wat oil would u guys recommend for a stock rebuilt gsr engine, with npr pistons and rings

 

What worked for me was warm the car up with regular sae-30 and then drain the oil,then put that same oil and drive it around 100 miles on a mountain then regular convention oil.This worked for me.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/oil-wd40-rings-2627932/

 

What does a mountain have to do with it?

If this engine is stock I would recommend breaking it in for the first 1000 miles with a conventional oil of the grade recommended by the manufacturer (I would probably use 10w/30 in my area) and then switching to synthetic and change it every 10k miles from there (check level regularly, if the engine was build properly you should not be burning more than 1 or 2 quarts in that time period).

 

ok cool. driving up a mountain help because you would drive up the mountain in a low gear and it's gunna put like more stress on the engine kinda, i cant really explain it but its all about getting as much air and gas into the cylinders to push out the rings as much as possible.

 

new rebuilt motors

use valvoline 10w30 for startup, idle, drain

refill, drive for 500 miles, drain refill

drive another 500, drain, put in syn.
during this time, drive it , like it would be driven a year from now..beat on it.. do w/e.. your only breaking in one part of the engine.. which is the rings..

break it hard and soft, hard and soft.. allowing for deaccel to play a part as well..pretty simple concept.

 

There is no need to change your oil before 800 miles. I don't understand why people recommend replacing it so often. It does not wear out that fast, even under break-in conditions. The only thing that could be of concern is debris in the engine that was loosened during cleaning or metal chips from machining. That said, it would be advisable to change the filter, but not the oil, after initial break-in. If you cut open your filter and there is not a lot of debris, then there is no reason to change it again before 800 miles. It is true that you should run conventional oil for the first 800 miles though as it helps break-in the piston rings. The correct way to break-in rings is to get it out on the freeway, accelerate at or near WOT (wide open throttle) in third gear from 2500 to just below redline and then let off the gas and decelerate back down to 2500 rpm. Do this over and over about 10 times and the rings should fully seat. When you are accelerating, combustion gases get behind the rings and force them out toward the cylinder walls and forces them to wear into the shape of the cylinder. When you are decelerating, the high vacuum in the cylinder sucks oil past the rings and flushes out any metal chips.

 

the metel shavings STILL get into your oil.. and you circulate that.. if it gets stuck inbetween your mains or rod bearings your pretty much screwed again..
But ya, you tell him bro, change your oil once guy.. metel shavings , every last one gets sucked pass the rings bro..

^^ is an idiot.

 

alright ya so im gunna start the car, let it warm up to operation temperature, then change the oil. im using valvoline non detergent 30w. o and also im using blox magnetic drain plugs. so once i change the oil ill start it back up, warm up, then go drive it. first ill kinda cruise and wot it every now and then for like 10 miles then hop on the freeway and do those 3rd gear pulls and let the car stop itself then do it again for like 10 times. then go home change the oil once more. mileage should b around 50 to 75 or so. check the compression, should b around 180 hopefully, if not then ill just drive it normaly with some wot pulls making sure i run the car at all rpms. i'll let u guys kno how it goes. im just waiting on my intermediate shaft to come in. thanks for the help

 

Just stay away from Royal PP.
I've never had good luck with them.