Changing to Synthetic
I have a Built D16, its on its first set of oil since its rebuild. I want to know what are the proper steps to convert to synthetic? My friend told me I can just put in synthetic the next time i change my oil but im pretty sure there are other steps? Do I have to run synthetic blend first or what? Right now im running Castrol GTX 10w-40. I want to run Castrol Syntec Royal Purple or Amsoil.
x2
Even when Im in a desperate situation where I need oil and only have conventional, I still mix it with synthetic just for the occasion and change it later to full synthetic... it doesnt really matter.. I would say to just flush the motor of the old gunk as best as you can and then use synthetic afterwards..
Even when Im in a desperate situation where I need oil and only have conventional, I still mix it with synthetic just for the occasion and change it later to full synthetic... it doesnt really matter.. I would say to just flush the motor of the old gunk as best as you can and then use synthetic afterwards..
x2
Even when Im in a desperate situation where I need oil and only have conventional, I still mix it with synthetic just for the occasion and change it later to full synthetic... it doesnt really matter.. I would say to just flush the motor of the old gunk as best as you can and then use synthetic afterwards..
Even when Im in a desperate situation where I need oil and only have conventional, I still mix it with synthetic just for the occasion and change it later to full synthetic... it doesnt really matter.. I would say to just flush the motor of the old gunk as best as you can and then use synthetic afterwards..
so the break in period is over? yes its okay. maybe you should get a magnetic drain plug just in case and run the car a few days. Afterwards just change the oil like every other oil change but instead your using synthetic. Trust me you dont have to fully get rid of all the gunk from the old oil. its still going to be there.. It sucks for my h2b because the oil pan tilts forward so when I drain my oil, about a quart stays in the oil pan because of the position of the oil pan. But I just use a small hose and try and suck out the rest. Though I cant get all of the oil out, Im still using synthetic over it and my car runs fine.
I believe you can go back and forth as much as you want.
My hatch went form conventional, to synthetic, to conventional, to synthetic, and back to conventional.
I thought that running synthetic is a waste of money. Sure, it can probably last more miles than conventional, but it still gets just as dirty. I feel better using conventional and switching it every 2000-2500 miles.
My hatch went form conventional, to synthetic, to conventional, to synthetic, and back to conventional.
I thought that running synthetic is a waste of money. Sure, it can probably last more miles than conventional, but it still gets just as dirty. I feel better using conventional and switching it every 2000-2500 miles.
so the break in period is over? yes its okay. maybe you should get a magnetic drain plug just in case and run the car a few days. Afterwards just change the oil like every other oil change but instead your using synthetic. Trust me you dont have to fully get rid of all the gunk from the old oil. its still going to be there.. It sucks for my h2b because the oil pan tilts forward so when I drain my oil, about a quart stays in the oil pan because of the position of the oil pan. But I just use a small hose and try and suck out the rest. Though I cant get all of the oil out, Im still using synthetic over it and my car runs fine.
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i dont think you can go back and forth as much as you want....
Synthetic oil has a thinner viscosity, thus it combusts easier which in turn is less wear on your engine....
non-synthetic is just the opposite obviously...its thicker and harder to cumbust than fully synthetic....
The difference here is the burn rate that each goes through. They burn at different rates and temperatures. Your piston rings SHOULD NOT be constantly varying the rate and temp....this will EVENTUALLY cause problems and possible leaks. You will slowly start to burn oil at a faster rate then usual and this is no bueno....
I experienced this with my old motor. I was running non-synthetic when i got it. I ran that for a while as thats what the motor had always run on. Then i switched to synthetic and since it was a slightly higher mileage motor, i started to burn a little more than usual. So i went back to non-synthetic and it didnt help...it made it a little worse. Now this was over a longer period of time, (i.e. Non-synthetic from factory until 100,000 miles...switched to synthetic and drove for 5k miles, then back to non for another 5k)
I recently however switched my new motor ( low mileage JDM ITR ) from non-synthetic to Fully Synthetic Royal Purple. Its absolutely lovely and ive had NO problems to speak of ( knock on wood ) however she doesnt see the road as much now as it did...
Basically what im trying to say is:
If you have a high mileage motor: (which you dont) i would NOT recommend switching
If you have a motor with low-decent mileage: make the switch and stick with it
Hope this helps....
Synthetic oil has a thinner viscosity, thus it combusts easier which in turn is less wear on your engine....
non-synthetic is just the opposite obviously...its thicker and harder to cumbust than fully synthetic....
The difference here is the burn rate that each goes through. They burn at different rates and temperatures. Your piston rings SHOULD NOT be constantly varying the rate and temp....this will EVENTUALLY cause problems and possible leaks. You will slowly start to burn oil at a faster rate then usual and this is no bueno....
I experienced this with my old motor. I was running non-synthetic when i got it. I ran that for a while as thats what the motor had always run on. Then i switched to synthetic and since it was a slightly higher mileage motor, i started to burn a little more than usual. So i went back to non-synthetic and it didnt help...it made it a little worse. Now this was over a longer period of time, (i.e. Non-synthetic from factory until 100,000 miles...switched to synthetic and drove for 5k miles, then back to non for another 5k)
I recently however switched my new motor ( low mileage JDM ITR ) from non-synthetic to Fully Synthetic Royal Purple. Its absolutely lovely and ive had NO problems to speak of ( knock on wood ) however she doesnt see the road as much now as it did...
Basically what im trying to say is:
If you have a high mileage motor: (which you dont) i would NOT recommend switching
If you have a motor with low-decent mileage: make the switch and stick with it
Hope this helps....
i dont think you can go back and forth as much as you want....
Synthetic oil has a thinner viscosity, thus it combusts easier which in turn is less wear on your engine....
non-synthetic is just the opposite obviously...its thicker and harder to cumbust than fully synthetic....
The difference here is the burn rate that each goes through. They burn at different rates and temperatures. Your piston rings SHOULD NOT be constantly varying the rate and temp....this will EVENTUALLY cause problems and possible leaks. You will slowly start to burn oil at a faster rate then usual and this is no bueno....
I experienced this with my old motor. I was running non-synthetic when i got it. I ran that for a while as thats what the motor had always run on. Then i switched to synthetic and since it was a slightly higher mileage motor, i started to burn a little more than usual. So i went back to non-synthetic and it didnt help...it made it a little worse. Now this was over a longer period of time, (i.e. Non-synthetic from factory until 100,000 miles...switched to synthetic and drove for 5k miles, then back to non for another 5k)
I recently however switched my new motor ( low mileage JDM ITR ) from non-synthetic to Fully Synthetic Royal Purple. Its absolutely lovely and ive had NO problems to speak of ( knock on wood ) however she doesnt see the road as much now as it did...
Basically what im trying to say is:
If you have a high mileage motor: (which you dont) i would NOT recommend switching
If you have a motor with low-decent mileage: make the switch and stick with it
Hope this helps....
Synthetic oil has a thinner viscosity, thus it combusts easier which in turn is less wear on your engine....
non-synthetic is just the opposite obviously...its thicker and harder to cumbust than fully synthetic....
The difference here is the burn rate that each goes through. They burn at different rates and temperatures. Your piston rings SHOULD NOT be constantly varying the rate and temp....this will EVENTUALLY cause problems and possible leaks. You will slowly start to burn oil at a faster rate then usual and this is no bueno....
I experienced this with my old motor. I was running non-synthetic when i got it. I ran that for a while as thats what the motor had always run on. Then i switched to synthetic and since it was a slightly higher mileage motor, i started to burn a little more than usual. So i went back to non-synthetic and it didnt help...it made it a little worse. Now this was over a longer period of time, (i.e. Non-synthetic from factory until 100,000 miles...switched to synthetic and drove for 5k miles, then back to non for another 5k)
I recently however switched my new motor ( low mileage JDM ITR ) from non-synthetic to Fully Synthetic Royal Purple. Its absolutely lovely and ive had NO problems to speak of ( knock on wood ) however she doesnt see the road as much now as it did...
Basically what im trying to say is:
If you have a high mileage motor: (which you dont) i would NOT recommend switching
If you have a motor with low-decent mileage: make the switch and stick with it
Hope this helps....
With 600 miles, stay with conventional a while longer. I'd at least run it up to 6k miles and then switch. Synthetic is too good of a lubricant and an engine won't break in correctly. Then switch to synthetic and stay with it, it's a better lubricant and it ends up being cheaper.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
The difference here is the burn rate that each goes through. They burn at different rates and temperatures. Your piston rings SHOULD NOT be constantly varying the rate and temp....this will EVENTUALLY cause problems and possible leaks. You will slowly start to burn oil at a faster rate then usual and this is no bueno....
So should I leave my car on all the time so my piston rings can stay them same temp?? lol... hahah
With 600 miles, stay with conventional a while longer. I'd at least run it up to 6k miles and then switch. Synthetic is too good of a lubricant and an engine won't break in correctly. Then switch to synthetic and stay with it, it's a better lubricant and it ends up being cheaper.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
And you should see the way I drive my Y8.. I treat that thing like ****, but it gets its oil changes.
With 600 miles, stay with conventional a while longer. I'd at least run it up to 6k miles and then switch. Synthetic is too good of a lubricant and an engine won't break in correctly. Then switch to synthetic and stay with it, it's a better lubricant and it ends up being cheaper.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
Changing your oil at 2500 miles is unnecessary, unless you're turbod or running your car really hard because heat is what breaks down the oil. Modern oils last longer because they're forumlated different and have different additives and modern engines have tighter tolerances so the oil stays cleaner. This is why a lot of manufacturers are suggesting oil change intervals up to around 7k miles.
Breaking in your motor using synthetic oil will be way better than using conventional oil. The fact that you can change from conventional oil to synthetic oil no problem, but switching back you might want to flush it out a bit.
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