So I was installing new spings and shocks yeaterday. Front went well however the rear was a mess. The shock bushing on the lower control arm are seized solid. I had soaked all bolts and nuts for a week prior to attempting the install. I decided to try the lower control arm/spindle bolts intending to remove the shock with the whole control arm... not luck seized solid. Impact gun and a 5" cheater bar didn't do anything... broke a 14mm socket in the process. I figure let the professionals do it.

I know the problem is the bushings seized/rusted to the bolts. My question: Should I get the shop to drop the control arms and replace the stock rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings? I am hoping the polyurethane bushing don't seize to the bolts like the stock ones.

Thanks,
Marty.

 

It has nothing to do with the bushing material, whether it be rubber or polyurethane. It's the metal sleeves inside of the bushing material that get rusted to the bolts.

Getting them replaced with polyurethane bushings is a good choice, and also probably cheaper than buying stock rubber bushings.

 

if you get bushings put in at the dealer, it is actually cheeper to just buy a new arm with the bushings already installed, that is of course if you are not worried about poly bushings

 

When I had to get Mugen bushings installed, it cost me $25.00 to do 4 bushings. For me it wasn't expensive at all.

I doubt the polyurethane bushings are all that expensive.

Edit:

http://www.suspension.com

REAR END CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SET (16-3109) :: $26.00
1990-98 Rear shock upper & lower bushing set (16-8103) :: $15.00


[Modified by IN VTEC, 8:24 AM 8/26/2002]

 

sorry, key word is "dealer"

that was when i was a newbe, i have done 2 sets of poly masterkit bushings my self now, easiest way is to use a torch and heat the bushing untill the center metal sleave drops out, then use a hack saw or sawsall to cut through the outer metal sleave, then use a properly size sock and a hammer to drive the sleave out, and slide the new bushings in

 

I just did the same exact install this weekend and had the same experience. What a nut roll that was... 20 hours later, I have a newly installed suspension

Heres what worked for us... Take the whole rear LCA off, put it in a vise. Use a propane blow torch to heat up the bushing and surrounding metal.. then use a BFH to punch it out. If you break the bolt you can get an a similar sized bolt that works at pep boys. I recommend buying the bolts ahead of time.

 

Thanks guys,

Muckman... I want to try to avoid that 20 hours project but I can imagine it taking me that long. Good for you that you did it yourself!!

Talked to the guys at the dealer and they gave me some helpful hints. WD-40 then heat then some more WD-40. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil for a week so I doubt it'll help. Or, no joke, Coke as in Coca-cola then some heat then some more Coke. Coke eats away at the rust and there is a good chance it'll free up. If they do this they'll charge 1 hour labour, @$85/hr CDN funds.

Last resort is to burn them out and replace with urethane.

Marty.

 

i had the same problem and i just gave up
please let me know how you did it if you figure it out
i'm desparate.

 

Fuguman,

The guys at the dealer were surprised that mine had the "problem", I have a '98. They say 5 or 6 years then they are frozen solid. All I can recommend to you is replace the bushings and bolts using the burning method if you can afford the down time. If not get someone to do it for you. I can't afford the down time so I'm probably going to take it in if the coca-cola don't work.

Marty.

 

let me know how much it will cost you

 

Nothing worked so I took it into the shop. They cut the bolt between the fork and control... cutting some of the bushing along with it. They replaced the bushing and the bolt. Cost me $200... now considering the each bushing cost $25 and each bolt cost $10 (total $70 parts) canadian funds, I think it's resonable. Saved myself alot of time.

Marty.