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99 civic rear lower control arm

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Old 11-08-2014, 05:31 PM
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Default 99 civic rear lower control arm

i had been hearing creaking from my rear suspension when turning left and going over bumps. I "think" the problem might be the bushing on the lower control arm where the shock/strut (whichever) attaches. I sprayed it with PB and most (not all) of the creaking went away. I'm thinking about just replacing the lower control arm because they are fairly cheap and i don't have a press. can someone advise steps for replacing the lower rear control arm? thanks, ashton
Old 11-08-2014, 06:15 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

It's really quite simple.

Jack the car up, remove the wheel. Remove the 3 bolts holding the arm on (end link if you have a sway bar) 1 bolt on trailing arm, 1 shock, 1 to the subframe.

Put the new arm in. If they have rubber bushings preload the suspension prior to torquing the bolts. --- jack the trailing arm up until it lifts off the jack stand.

Also it's not a bad idea to put some anti seize on the bolts before you reinstall.
Old 11-08-2014, 06:48 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

For anti sieze, you can use CV joint grease or silicone grease, they are formulated to not damage the rubber. Using petroleum based greases will cause the bushing to swell and lose their function and form.
Old 11-09-2014, 04:42 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

thank you for the walk through. just to make sure i'm clear, you load the suspension by jacking up the trailing arm - right?
Old 11-09-2014, 05:34 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Honestly, a haynes or chilton manual with detailed photos will help you with the LCA more than we can on these forums.
Old 11-09-2014, 07:27 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

The diagram below from the Helm's service manual (best) is for 99 non-Si models, as you did not specify.

Vehicle should be on the ground before any bolts or nuts connected to rubber mounts or bushings are tightened.
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:47 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by ashtonallen
thank you for the walk through. just to make sure i'm clear, you load the suspension by jacking up the trailing arm - right?
Basically yes.

If you don't have room to get to the bolts with the car on the ground, then the trick people do is to jack up lower control arm until the car just lifts off the jack stand. Then you tighten all three bolts of the lower control arm to torques specs.

The other trick if you don't like jacking up the lower control arm directly is once you get the bolts in but not tightened. Jack up the back end enough that you can put ramps under the tires. Lower the car onto the ramps and now you have space to work and the car is the equivalent to being on the ground. Torque all the bolts and your are done.
Old 11-09-2014, 08:29 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Thank you for the explanation!
Old 11-09-2014, 08:35 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by 98civdx
If they have rubber bushings preload the suspension prior to torquing the bolts. --- jack the trailing arm up until it lifts off the jack stand.
Originally Posted by TomCat39
If you don't have room to get to the bolts with the car on the ground, then the trick people do is to jack up lower control arm until the car just lifts off the jack stand. Then you tighten all three bolts of the lower control arm to torques specs.

The other trick if you don't like jacking up the lower control arm directly is once you get the bolts in but not tightened. Jack up the back end enough that you can put ramps under the tires. Lower the car onto the ramps and now you have space to work and the car is the equivalent to being on the ground. Torque all the bolts and your are done.
Physics tells you that when the rear end is raised, the front end supports more of the rear weight. The higher the rear end is raised, the higher amount of rear weight is supported by the front end. Therefore, tightening the nuts/bolts with the rear end raised (even with a jack on the trailing arm) means the rear end is not fully weight loaded.

However, I'm not sure that the weight load difference matters in the end or that all nuts/bolts are accessible for tightening with the car flat on the ground.
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Old 11-09-2014, 09:53 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Yeah, it's probably not as precise as if you can do all 4 wheels at the same time.

Ideally, you would have 4 ramps. Or two ramps on the front and jack stands on the back making the car level. So that the lift keeps the angle to 1-3 degrees at most.

I don't know off hand the formula to calculate the percentage of the weight shift based on angle. It's been way to long since I've done any serious mathematics.

I tend to think that the 20-30 degree angle doesn't make that significant of a variance on the preload as many people have done this technique in the driveways without any catastrophic results.

It might be interesting to calculate the percentage variance the angle makes. With that information, you could compensate with some bags of cement in the trunk....
Old 11-09-2014, 10:40 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by TomCat39

It might be interesting to calculate the percentage variance the angle makes. With that information, you could compensate with some bags of cement in the trunk....
I think the approximation math is probably straightforward.

With the car on flat ground (0-degrees), the rear wheels by definition will bear full load weight (100%).

With the car vertical (90-degrees) with front down and all weight weight on the front wheels, the rear wheels will have no load (0%).

With the car raised 20-degrees in the rear, the rear load weight will be reduced by 20-degrees/90-degrees (~22%). In this case, if each rear wheel bears 500-lbs on flat ground, then they would bear only 390-lbs with the rear raised 20-degrees.

With the car raised 30-degrees in the rear, the rear load weight will be reduced by 30-degrees/90-degrees (~33%). In this case, if each rear wheel bears 500-lbs on flat ground, then they would bear only 333-lbs with the rear raised 30-degrees.
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Last edited by Former User; 11-09-2014 at 12:22 PM.
Old 11-09-2014, 03:01 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Been looking all morning for 92-95 hatchback stock spring rates and it's left out of every resource I can find.

The closest I could find is 96-00 progressives front and back stock rate of 165/80. Which is about a 2:1 ratio.

The 92-95 hatch weighs in at about 3100 pounds (AT is 3200). So really, 2000 lbs up front and 1000 pounds in back via the stock spring ratio I would think.

That being said, your 500 lbs is pretty darn close as far as I can tell. So one would need to put approximately another 170 pounds per wheel if it's about a 30 degree angle they have the back lifted to be closer to stock loading of the rear wheel.

And for the fronts for a hatchback it looks to be double that being the weight up front seems to be double of the rear.

Ron, just for slapping numbers out there, you are amazing I must say.
Old 11-09-2014, 03:10 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by TomCat39
So one would need to put approximately another 120 pounds if it's about a 30 degree angle they have the back lifted to be closer to stock loading of the rear wheel.
I'm not sure what the actual angle ranges are with one end of the car jacked up. Maybe somebody knows. I generally like raising my car more than 20" at the front and rear jack points, but I'm not sure what the angles are.

Ron, just for slapping numbers out there, you are amazing I must say.
There are a bunch of amazing members in this forum, but I don't think I'm one of them. I'd say I'm more prolific than amazing, but I certainly appreciate the kind words TomCat.
Old 11-09-2014, 03:55 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

You guys rock!!
Old 11-09-2014, 04:35 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

I made an error. The source I pulled the weight from for the 92-95 hatch was quoting gross weight and not curb weight.

Here is the curb weight of the 96-00:
Code:
	CX Hatch	DX Hatch	DX Coupe	HX Coupe	EX Coupe
        Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual
1996	2297	2222	2317	2242	2339	2262	no data	2313	2513	2483
1997	2338	2304	2253	2319	2271	2337	2324	2399	2460	2496
1998	2357	2295	2392	2339	2385	2342	2429	2361	2551	2504
1999	2423	2359	2434	2388	2405	2335	2445	2370	2560	2513
2000	2423	2359	2434	2388	2405	2359	2445	2370	2560	2513
        DX Sedan	LX Sedan	EX Sedan	Si Coupe  Value Package Sedan
        Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Manual	  Auto
1996	2370	2319	2430	2387	2568	2518		
1997	2319	2370	2387	2438	2568	2518		
1998	2385	2339	2458	2412	2558	2511		
1999	2388	2339	2456	2410	2562	2513	2612	
2000	2388	2339	2456	2410	2562	2513	2612	  2418
Then 92-95 is:
Code:
	        CX Hatch  VX Hatch  Si Hatch	DX Hatch
                Manual	  Manual    Manual	Auto	Manual
1992–1993	2094	  2094	    2326	2275	2178
1994–1995	2108	  2094	    2390	2264	2178
                DX Sedan	LX Sedan	EX Sedan	DX Coupe	EX Coupe
                Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual	Auto	Manual
1992–1993	2343	2275	2388	2319	2524	2480	2317	2224	2445	2390
1994–1995	2392	2313	2456	2403	2575	2522	2326	2231	2575	2520
So using the 99 DX Hatch manual we'll say 2400 pounds curb weight with a 2:1 spring ratio so should in theory be the 2:1 weight ratio from front to back.

So that would be 800 pounds on the rear and 1600 on the front. So 400 pounds per rear wheel at a 30 degree angle would be 33% reduction which is 132 lbs. short of the full 400 lbs the wheel should be bearing.

Hope this helps and sorry for not catching that I was quoting the gross weight. With the tables above and Ron's formula you should be able to calculate a pretty fair estimate of the extra weight you will need to compensate the non level vehicle.
Old 11-09-2014, 04:47 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

i appreciate all of the precise help!
Old 11-10-2014, 03:26 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

You could try to make the 4 corners of the car the same level as if it was sitting on all 4 wheels.
3 are already with the wheels on.
the 4th one is raised or lowered by a jack under the LCA(bolts already inserted but still loose, wheel not yet fitted) until you get the car to be as level as possible.
Tighten the bolts, put the wheels on.Remove jack.
Old 11-10-2014, 05:37 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT
I think the approximation math is probably straightforward.

With the car on flat ground (0-degrees), the rear wheels by definition will bear full load weight (100%).

With the car vertical (90-degrees) with front down and all weight weight on the front wheels, the rear wheels will have no load (0%).

With the car raised 20-degrees in the rear, the rear load weight will be reduced by 20-degrees/90-degrees (~22%). In this case, if each rear wheel bears 500-lbs on flat ground, then they would bear only 390-lbs with the rear raised 20-degrees.

With the car raised 30-degrees in the rear, the rear load weight will be reduced by 30-degrees/90-degrees (~33%). In this case, if each rear wheel bears 500-lbs on flat ground, then they would bear only 333-lbs with the rear raised 30-degrees.
Overthinking the subject way too much. You would not be jacking the car up to a 30 degree angle. If you jacked the car up 24 inches you would still only be at a 13 degree angle. The change in the amount of weight at the wheel would not even affect the clocking of the bushing at that point.
Old 11-10-2014, 05:46 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by cruizinmax
If you jacked the car up 24 inches you would still only be at a 13 degree angle.
Very useful^ information.

In this case, if each rear wheel normally bears 400-lbs, then raising the rear end 24" would reduce the load to 342-lbs.

The change in the amount of weight at the wheel would not even affect the clocking of the bushing at that point.
Not sure what this^ means.
Old 11-10-2014, 08:52 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT
Originally Posted by cruizinmax
The change in the amount of weight at the wheel would not even affect the clocking of the bushing at that point.
Not sure what this^ means.
I believe clocking is meaning the position on a clock face the bushing is locked into place i.e. 3 o'clock vs. 4 o'clock position.

I noticed when the bolt is tight it pinches the frame, strut or trailing arm against the bushing. The bushing only allows so much movement. And I believe this is why the preload is important. It determines the arms position where the bushing gets locked into place when the bolts get torqued down.

Originally Posted by cruizinmax
Overthinking the subject way too much. You would not be jacking the car up to a 30 degree angle. If you jacked the car up 24 inches you would still only be at a 13 degree angle. The change in the amount of weight at the wheel would not even affect the clocking of the bushing at that point.
Yeah, this was more for those who are extra meticulous. Just like some people torque every single bolt to spec from the manual, and others do not. This at least allows those who wish to be more precise an easy way to calculate the variance for their piece of mind.
Old 11-10-2014, 08:53 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by TomCat39
I believe clocking is meaning the position on a clock face the bushing is locked into place i.e. 3 o'clock vs. 4 o'clock position.

I noticed when the bolt is tight it pinches the frame, strut or trailing arm against the bushing. The bushing only allows so much movement. And I believe this is why the preload is important. It determines the arms position where the bushing gets locked into place when the bolts get torqued down.


Is it really impossible to tighten/torque the rear suspension nuts/bolts with the car on the ground?

It's a little tricky for the front suspension nuts/bolts, but I've always been able to do it using proper length socket extensions.
Old 11-10-2014, 10:48 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT


Is it really impossible to tighten/torque the rear suspension nuts/bolts with the car on the ground?

It's a little tricky for the front suspension nuts/bolts, but I've always been able to do it using proper length socket extensions.
Depends on how low the car sits.
Old 11-10-2014, 10:53 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by tony_2018
Depends on how low the car sits.
So for a stock Civic, then it's possible?
Old 11-10-2014, 10:57 AM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Should, I was able to install an integra rear swaybar at stock height, okay its actually oem integra type r springs on my civic but I was still able to get under the car.
Old 11-10-2014, 12:22 PM
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Default Re: 99 civic rear lower control arm

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT
I think the approximation math is probably straightforward.

With the car vertical (90-degrees) with front down and all weight weight on the front wheels, the rear wheels will have no load (0%).

**** it, I'm doing all of my suspension work at 90* from now on!


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