WHP???1/4 times???2011 set-up
So after doing some research for my 2011 set-up for my street car I have come up with this list and plan on sticking wit it and was womdering wat WHP numbers I would be looking at wit this set-up on Pump gas(93) and on C16 also wat 1/4 mile time's to expect and also some pointers on wat parts to take off change or add......My goal is 600whp-700whp+ and low 10's or better (track/weekend car)all comments welcomed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
Block
-84mm Sleeved LS block
-Machined LS crank(microplished..etc)
-ACL Coated Bearings & Thrust Washers
-ARP Main Studs
-morosso oil pan
-Manley Turbo tuff Rods
-CP 9:5:1 Pistons
-golden eagle LS/V kit
-Block Redrilled for oversized (1/2 Inch) ARP Headstuds
-ATI Crank Pulley
-Golden Eagle 84mm headgasket and head studs
-acl race bearings
-Balanced & Blue printed
-Arp Flywheel Bolts
-Arp Pressure Plate Bolts
-Arp Balancer Bolt
Head
-B16A Head
-5 Angle Valve Job, Resurfaced, New Seals
-Supertech stainless valves
-Supertech Valvesprings & Retainers
-skunk 2 pro 1's cams
-Head Redrilled for Oversized (1/2 inch) ARP Headstuds
-Edelbrock Intake manifold Portmatched to 70mm
-Edelbrock 70mm Throttle Body
-pro series cam gears
-Hondata IM Gasket
Motor Misc.
-AEM 5Bar Map Sensor
-Hondata S300
-Boost Solenoid
-Dual walbro 255lh HP -8 feed & return
-AEM fuel rail
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive fuel filter
-RC 1000cc injectors
-T1 catch can kit
Turbo System
-Divided Runner T4 Topmount Manifold
-Garrett Gt35R Turbo
-4inch Vban Downpipe
-Twin Tial 44mm wastegates
-Back door 28x12x4.5 Intercooler
-3 Inch Charge piping
-Tial 50mm BOV
Tranny
GSR
-twin disk competition cluth
-lightweight flywhell
-LSD
-short trow shifter
Block
-84mm Sleeved LS block
-Machined LS crank(microplished..etc)
-ACL Coated Bearings & Thrust Washers
-ARP Main Studs
-morosso oil pan
-Manley Turbo tuff Rods
-CP 9:5:1 Pistons
-golden eagle LS/V kit
-Block Redrilled for oversized (1/2 Inch) ARP Headstuds
-ATI Crank Pulley
-Golden Eagle 84mm headgasket and head studs
-acl race bearings
-Balanced & Blue printed
-Arp Flywheel Bolts
-Arp Pressure Plate Bolts
-Arp Balancer Bolt
Head
-B16A Head
-5 Angle Valve Job, Resurfaced, New Seals
-Supertech stainless valves
-Supertech Valvesprings & Retainers
-skunk 2 pro 1's cams
-Head Redrilled for Oversized (1/2 inch) ARP Headstuds
-Edelbrock Intake manifold Portmatched to 70mm
-Edelbrock 70mm Throttle Body
-pro series cam gears
-Hondata IM Gasket
Motor Misc.
-AEM 5Bar Map Sensor
-Hondata S300
-Boost Solenoid
-Dual walbro 255lh HP -8 feed & return
-AEM fuel rail
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive fuel filter
-RC 1000cc injectors
-T1 catch can kit
Turbo System
-Divided Runner T4 Topmount Manifold
-Garrett Gt35R Turbo
-4inch Vban Downpipe
-Twin Tial 44mm wastegates
-Back door 28x12x4.5 Intercooler
-3 Inch Charge piping
-Tial 50mm BOV
Tranny
GSR
-twin disk competition cluth
-lightweight flywhell
-LSD
-short trow shifter
Last edited by got dell; Aug 18, 2009 at 03:51 PM.
whats the point in the 600-700whp for a street car? seems more economical to me to just go with aroudn 500whp and make that bitch hook if the track times are what u want...
600-700whp is my own personal goal and the car will only be a weekend car!!!!!!!!and with the right tires and the car dialed in 600-700whp wont be to bad to hook up at the track!!!!!!!!!!!!
that much power in a FWD street honda is crazy retarded. who needs that muhc? NOBODY!! ha but thats just me im with jarvis on this on and stick around 500whp which is still stupid power and mayeb you will be able to hook up at the track
Looks like a well thought out setup. It shouldn't have a problem reaching your whp goals. The 1/4 times on the other hand is a different story. It really depends on traction and driver skill.
Who needs 700whp fwd street honda???!!!............
....
...
..
.
People who races exotic's/bikes from rolls!!!
Who needs 700whp fwd street honda???!!!............
....
...
..
.
People who races exotic's/bikes from rolls!!!
Looks like a well thought out setup. It shouldn't have a problem reaching your whp goals. The 1/4 times on the other hand is a different story. It really depends on traction and driver skill.
Who needs 700whp fwd street honda???!!!............
....
...
..
.
People who races exotic's/bikes from rolls!!!
Who needs 700whp fwd street honda???!!!............
....
...
..
.
People who races exotic's/bikes from rolls!!!
Trending Topics
looks like a decent setup but you forgot about the rest of the car. you throw that setup in a stock car forget about anything. i would do suspension and brakes before you do the motor setup. but hey thats me
setup looks good should have no problem seeing your personal goal, if you have never driven a front wheel drive with that much power please modulate that throttle until you get used to it. I have Quiffe LSD, good suspension, good tires, and even on my pump gas map have to be very careful with it on the street...
The fastest FWD turbo honda that I have droven had 580whp GSR eg hatch and it was nuts but I loved the feeling...and as for suspension and so on I know wat I want I was just posting up the motor set-up.....like I said my goal is 600-700whp but I want to drive the car around and at the track until I break it in and until I feel comftable driving the car at like 400-500 but want to make sure the motor can hold 600-700whp!....thanx for the info guys keep it coming
ya know im tired of hearing whats the point of this or that h.p. street/strip car and let me shed some light on this for you guys
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
ya know im tired of hearing whats the point of this or that h.p. street/strip car and let me shed some light on this for you guys
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
ya know im tired of hearing whats the point of this or that h.p. street/strip car and let me shed some light on this for you guys
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
my ride is a street/strip ride, and even though you may not be able to understand this just because its tuned to 24psi@498 doesnt mean I run 24psi all the time in fact its at 18psi for the most part till track time.
so if you can use and run the management your good.
man get what ya can from the setup, and enjoy, but ill be truthfull its hard to enjoy anything under 4th gear on the street. Boost by gear helps alot you will need to play with it thought till your happy
Setup look pretty good. I would pass on the RC 1000 injector and order the Injector Dynamics at the same time you order your T1 catch can. Those injectors are so superior to the peak/hold RCs. Especially because you plan on street driving still.
Jason
Jason
What in the hell is a GT3594R? Doesn't exist, as far as I know. That would be such a brutal missmatch of wheels.
For 700 WHP and an outstanding powerband I'd run an SC6262 from PTE!
For 700 WHP and an outstanding powerband I'd run an SC6262 from PTE!
I run Precision 1600cc in my car, however I have a friend running these Injector Dynamics in his turbo civic and he loves them.
No need for 1/2" Headstuds or the ARP Main Studs, just get the sleeves o-ring'd and your good.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
No need for 1/2" Headstuds or the ARP Main Studs, just get the sleeves o-ring'd and your good.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
Jusr get a dual stage boost controller, have a switch for pump (say around 430whp) and then your other switch for c16 with around 600whp.
No real need for 700whp as 600 could get you into the high 9's with good driving/suspension set up.
No real need for 700whp as 600 could get you into the high 9's with good driving/suspension set up.
No need for 1/2" Headstuds or the ARP Main Studs, just get the sleeves o-ring'd and your good.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
The 35R is going to be at its max at the top of your power goals, if you got the money a 4088R would probably be a good choice as well.
Also just run a single 255hp Intank to a Bosch 044 Inline with the ID1000's, you will have extra room in your fuel system and the car will run better.
So after doing some research for my 2011 set-up for my street car I have come up with this list and plan on sticking wit it and was womdering wat WHP numbers I would be looking at wit this set-up on Pump gas(93) and on C16 also wat 1/4 mile time's to expect and also some pointers on wat parts to take off change or add......My goal is 600whp-700whp+ and low 10's or better (track/weekend car)all comments welcomed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
Block
-84mm Sleeved LS block
-Machined LS crank(microplished..etc)
-ACL Coated Bearings & Thrust Washers
-ARP Main Studs
-morosso oil pan
-Manley Turbo tuff Rods
-CP 9:5:1 Pistons
-golden eagle LS/V kit
-Block Redrilled for oversized (1/2 Inch) ARP Headstuds
-ATI Crank Pulley
-Golden Eagle 84mm headgasket and head studs
-acl race bearings
-Balanced & Blue printed
-Arp Flywheel Bolts
-Arp Pressure Plate Bolts
-Arp Balancer Bolt
Head
-B16A Head
-5 Angle Valve Job, Resurfaced, New Seals
-Supertech stainless valves
-Supertech Valvesprings & Retainers
-skunk 2 pro 1's cams
-Head Redrilled for Oversized (1/2 inch) ARP Headstuds
-Edelbrock Intake manifold Portmatched to 70mm
-Edelbrock 70mm Throttle Body
-pro series cam gears
-Hondata IM Gasket
Motor Misc.
-AEM 5Bar Map Sensor
-Hondata S300
-Boost Solenoid
-Dual walbro 255lh HP -8 feed & return
-AEM fuel rail
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive fuel filter
-RC 1000cc injectors
-T1 catch can kit
Turbo System
-Divided Runner T4 Topmount Manifold
-Garrett Gt35R Turbo
-4inch Vban Downpipe
-Twin Tial 44mm wastegates
-Back door 28x12x4.5 Intercooler
-3 Inch Charge piping
-Tial 50mm BOV
Tranny
GSR
-twin disk competition cluth
-lightweight flywhell
-LSD
-short trow shifter
Block
-84mm Sleeved LS block
-Machined LS crank(microplished..etc)
-ACL Coated Bearings & Thrust Washers
-ARP Main Studs
-morosso oil pan
-Manley Turbo tuff Rods
-CP 9:5:1 Pistons
-golden eagle LS/V kit
-Block Redrilled for oversized (1/2 Inch) ARP Headstuds
-ATI Crank Pulley
-Golden Eagle 84mm headgasket and head studs
-acl race bearings
-Balanced & Blue printed
-Arp Flywheel Bolts
-Arp Pressure Plate Bolts
-Arp Balancer Bolt
Head
-B16A Head
-5 Angle Valve Job, Resurfaced, New Seals
-Supertech stainless valves
-Supertech Valvesprings & Retainers
-skunk 2 pro 1's cams
-Head Redrilled for Oversized (1/2 inch) ARP Headstuds
-Edelbrock Intake manifold Portmatched to 70mm
-Edelbrock 70mm Throttle Body
-pro series cam gears
-Hondata IM Gasket
Motor Misc.
-AEM 5Bar Map Sensor
-Hondata S300
-Boost Solenoid
-Dual walbro 255lh HP -8 feed & return
-AEM fuel rail
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive fuel filter
-RC 1000cc injectors
-T1 catch can kit
Turbo System
-Divided Runner T4 Topmount Manifold
-Garrett Gt35R Turbo
-4inch Vban Downpipe
-Twin Tial 44mm wastegates
-Back door 28x12x4.5 Intercooler
-3 Inch Charge piping
-Tial 50mm BOV
Tranny
GSR
-twin disk competition cluth
-lightweight flywhell
-LSD
-short trow shifter
Good list and quality parts. The only things I would suggest is.. Bigger turbo. The 35R is good but it helps to make the power easier without running the turbo at close to full flow. The BW turbos are good at making high power. Check them out. I would go with Skunk Tuner 1's for camshaft. The pro 1's are better for 700whp+ setups. Tuner cams will be easier to tune and idle better. Stock GSR cams will make 800whp with a stock idle. If you want to run good 1/4 times you'll need a good boost controller. Hondata's boost control is good but it doesn't have gain. Street driving you'll need Drag Radials (235 or 225 BFG's) unless you want to get beat by an all motor car. Also try E85 it is an awesome fuel and the price is great. Good Luck!
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