first h22a swap = fail
Thats weird. Might be an EGR problem? My F22B1 sounded like that when I try to keep the gas pedal at a steady pace while driving on highways then it would do what sounded like yours(That rumble). It turns out that my EGR ports were clogged but on the H, there's no way to open up the EGR ports like the F22.
yea people drill them and buy new ports but i heard that u can sea foam the two ports going to the egr and fill it up run it for awhile and it cleans it...it may take multiple times but yea drilling the six ports next to it is to much of a hassle IMO...but if it is the egr that would be tight cuz i can get it done in a day since i start skool in a week lmao
Try spraying water on each exhaust pipe and see if each one steams. If not, the one that doesn't steam is the problem. Or use a laser thermometer.
It sounds like my hatch did when I had a burnt valve.
It sounds like my hatch did when I had a burnt valve.
if its a burnt valve *** my self...but i think its injectors too i talked to a friend today..he told me to put some lucus cleaner in and if it doesnt work one of the injectors is dead
is it ok to run a f22b1 ecu on a h22a to see if theres a difference?
edit: i ran the f22b1 and the car ran better...sounded like no misfire/spiting at all..is it possible that its the ecu?...well it is an auto and i have a manual
edit: i ran the f22b1 and the car ran better...sounded like no misfire/spiting at all..is it possible that its the ecu?...well it is an auto and i have a manual
Last edited by cd5_801; Aug 19, 2009 at 11:32 AM.
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Silly question, but, you did do the necessary wiring when you performed the swap, right? If you're not sure what wiring I'm talking about, there's a few links in the FAQ.
BTW, if you use Lucas injector cleaner, and it doesn't change anything, how would that possibly prove there's a faulty injector?
BTW, if you use Lucas injector cleaner, and it doesn't change anything, how would that possibly prove there's a faulty injector?
lucas and seafoam is the best addictive sold on the market that cleans your injectors but seafoam does alittle more...if both of those dont work i have no idea watsup...
there is no wiring for the swap but to extend wires...no adding unless you were non vtec before or if your h22 is a A4...and if your using the p13 u need to run the knock sensor also
there is no wiring for the swap but to extend wires...no adding unless you were non vtec before or if your h22 is a A4...and if your using the p13 u need to run the knock sensor also
I was making sure you did what was necessary though. A lot of people have tried to do the swap thinking that there wasn't any wiring involved. You didn't mention it, but did you switch pins A6 and A11?
yea i did switch them...i think the problem is that my p28 needs to get tuned...i just realized im runnin on a civic basemap...i know kinda stupid..but is this what a h22 really sounds like with a virgin p28?
A p28 on a stock (Civic) tune should run an H22 no problem, although it'd run lean in the upper rpm range. It will not, however, operate the secondary butterflies in the H22 intake manifold. Although it would be better to have the p28 tuned for the H22, it doesn't seem like it is the cause of your problem.
Just out of curiosity, is there any chance of trying out a p13 ecu? Borrowing one perhaps? Just a thought... Otherwise I'm out of ideas besides ones already mentioned.
Just out of curiosity, is there any chance of trying out a p13 ecu? Borrowing one perhaps? Just a thought... Otherwise I'm out of ideas besides ones already mentioned.
well it could be but i was trying to get a p13 to try it but i couldnt get one...I did try my f22b1 ecu and it ran so much better like normal i will post a video if you like.
Usually if you have a burned valve you should see smoke when you either A) Get on the gas hard, or when B) you let off of the gas after putting load on the engine.
Don't you have another ECU on the way? I thought I saw another thread...
I don't know what problems would come up with running the F22's ECU. I have no idea how the AFR would be, etc. I would think you could get away with it, as long as you stayed on the safe side and didn't run it hard. I'm sure there's a couple guys around that have run an H22 off the F22's ECU... maybe they can chime in.
I don't know what problems would come up with running the F22's ECU. I have no idea how the AFR would be, etc. I would think you could get away with it, as long as you stayed on the safe side and didn't run it hard. I'm sure there's a couple guys around that have run an H22 off the F22's ECU... maybe they can chime in.
yea i have one coming but it might take 1 or 2 weeks i need to drive everyday for school starting monday...the p28 runs like **** but the f22b1 ecu runs smooth im just askin is it safe to drive for 1 or 2 weeks ill baby it for sure no shift over like 3500 i shift at like 2500 ahah i just dont want my car to blow up/screw up some ****
Thats weird. Might be an EGR problem? My F22B1 sounded like that when I try to keep the gas pedal at a steady pace while driving on highways then it would do what sounded like yours(That rumble). It turns out that my EGR ports were clogged but on the H, there's no way to open up the EGR ports like the F22.
Is the EGR still physically connected? I would think that if the p28 is disabling it, you would have to disconnect it completely and block it off. At least, you'd have to on nearly every car I've ever worked on.
I've never removed the EGR from a Honda before, but any time it was disabled on another car I was working on, I had to remove it and use a block off plate. Otherwise the engine ran like crap.




