ok ever since ive own this damn swap its been overheating.. i have a d16z6 which has custom length fjt i-beam, vitara 75.5mm pistons brand new oem water pump,oem oil pump, oem thermostat, oem thermostat switch, oem head gasket... before i built it, it would overheat and the fan would never come on.. i have no damn idea whats going on with it.. the whole motor was hot tanked and rebuilt and still overheats.. the fan doesnt come on and i dont know why.. just installed brand new thermostat and switch and still the same ****...this is gettin me very fustrated and any help will be appreciated

oh yea.. its in an ek hatch that has a converison harness and p28..

 

um if ne thing hook the fan up to a switch and see what it is........ and if the bottom raiator hose i still cold when its at running temp then it most likly is ur thermostat or a blown head gasket thats the only thing that comes to mind

 

Install a jumper wire into the 2P connector of the fan switch on the thermostat housing. Does the fan now run continuously with the key in ON(II)? If so, replace the switch.

Also try bleeding the cooling system of trapped air.

 

I had air trapped in my system and the fan would not turn on even if I was 3/4 to hot. So do what ronJ said. make sure there is no air in the system before anything else.

 

Same here. I had a big air pocket in my heater core. Park your car on a hill facing up and take the radiator cap off and run it. Fill it up as air comes out. It's easier than the bleed screw but that works too

 

i got a brand new oem honda switch just came yesterday but like i said still doesnt work as for the wire into the switch my fan does work because that what i had to do.. im going to check the hose and see if it has air in it.. whole system was flushed

 

Either the new switch is bad or the switch connector is damaged or corroded.

 

i doubt its the switch man.. bought 2 new ones and **** still doesnt work.. the connector works with a wire in it i just dont know

 

If the fan kick on when you jump the switch, let your car run and when it warm up, squeeze a hose and check for leak on the raditor.

 

no leaks... i let her warm up for 10 mins.. temp was fine.. then i felt the hoses and the bottom one was not as hot as the top one.. it was really hot by where the thermostat housing connects to the hose but the rest was just a tad bit warm... i revved it up and the temp was fine then it started to rise.. i jumped the switch and it was working fine but then the heat started to go up a little and in between the heat symbol and stayed there till i revved it up once more and it went down to the regular temp.. but it started to go back up after a little while turned on the heat and it dropped fast