I'm honestly not sure if anyone's gonna be able to help me because even some of the well respected "Honda guru's" that live in my area can't figure it out, but I figured I'd try. Maybe by some miracle someone else has had this same problem and will be able to help me fix it or simply offer a little advice. I deffinetly don't consider myself as knowledgable about Honda's as I would like to be so there's deffinetly a possibility that I'm not seeing something,

Here's what I'm working with- I have a 94 Civic EX coupe. It originally cma with a D16Z6 and I just dropped in an obd2 B18C. I am using a obd1 p72 and used the obd1 harness that came in the car and just spliced whatever pugs I needed to like the alternator and the injectors. I am also using the PasswordJDM jumper harness for the distributor.

I DID GET IT RUNNING and got check engine light codes-4(crankshaft position sensor), 7(TPS), and 41(heated O2 sensor heater). I think I've got codes 7 and 41 taken care of, but in an attempt to fix code 4 I went ahead and traded my obd2 distributor with a friend for his obd1(because I was told this would fix it). Well, somehow in the simple process of me taking off the obd2 and bolting on the obd1, something happend and now it wont start. I immediatly thought it was a bad obd1 distributor so I swapped back and put the obd2 back on and it still wont start.

When I turn the key, I can hear what sounds like the distributor "winding", but I'm not getting the actual "cranking" sound. I thought maybe I got the ignition wires mixed up so like an idiot I went off Hanes manual for the firing order and it was ofcourse wrong. So, then when I went to start it, something "popped". Not really sure what it was, but hopefully it wasn't anything major. I did finally get the wires all sorted out and on in the right order thanks to Rywire.com, but I'm still having the same problems. I've checked all my fuses and even had the started tested at the local Autozone and it checked out okay,

I am at a loss and cannot understand why it won't start now. Has anyone else had this problem or could tell me where to start? PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Do you have spark?

Does the fuel pump prime?

Reset the ECU and crank the engine for more than 30 seconds. Are you then able to pull any CEL codes?

 

haven't checked spark yet and deffinetly will first thing tomorrow morning

yes the fuel pump is kicking on when I turn the key to the first click.

by reseting the ECU, do you mean disconnecting the battery to clear out any codes? and thats another weird thing, everytime I try to start it now, I'm not even getting any check engine lights anymore.

 

Yes, but you can also reset the ECU by removing the 7.5A Back Up fuse under the hood for a couple of minutes. With the key turned to ON(II), does the CEL currently turn on and then off after 2 seconds?

At this point, the coil and/or igniter unit in the distributor are prime suspects.

 

first of all bro, thanks for your help, I didn't think anyone would even acknowledge this thread. I was about ready to give up on this thing.

Yes, the CEL comes on briefly and then goes off and stays off. I'm having a pretty busy Saturday so as soon as I get a chance I will go down to the garage and check the few things you suggested.

If it is either the coil or the ignitor wouldn't the guy I had trade with have the same problems? When I traded him the first time and he put the obd2 distributor on his obd1 motor, it fired up. And after I traded him back because I thought it was the distributor he put the obd1 back on and it fired right up. Pickin up what I'm laying down?

 

Yes, I understand. First check for spark at the plugs. Use this method. If you lack spark, check whether the timing belt snapped. This is done by looking into the engine oil fill hole while a buddy cranks the engine. You should see the rocker arms move. If they move, pull off the distributor cap, turn the key to ON(II), and check for battery voltage at the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil. Post the outcome of these tests.

 

I haven't had a chance to check for spark yet, but I can tell you that the timing belt hasn't snapped because my valve cover has actually been cut to show the cam gears so I can see that the timing belt is still good.

 

Cool, and if what RonJ said doesnt fix your problem, which I think it may, check out your Crank sensor. I know cars will have a hard time running, at best... or usually won't start at all with a bad crank sensor.

...unless this is one of the models with the sensor in the distributor then don't mind what i said.. lol

 

Ron he has the ckf code. so i'm assuming his b18c doesn't have that sensor or his harness doesn't have one. he probably just need to do the bypass. just my 2cents

 

Code 4 is for the crank angle sensor in the distributor. The OBDI P72 ECU shouldn't look for a CKF sensor.

 

ah right, my bad i was thinking it was obd2 cuz of the motor but somehow skipped over the part where he used the obd1 harness. late night for me hehe

 

any luck chuck?
obd1 crank sensor was in the dizzy.
obd2 crank sensor was at the oil pump.
have you tried any other ecus?
i would say check the ecu fuse. but you said the fuel pump primes so thats good

 

Hey, I hope you see this RonJ@HT. I finally had the opporttunity to check to see if I am getting spark and I AM GETTING SPARK. A buddy of mine and I have found that it cranks a couple times and then seems to "winds out". The starter continues to wind, but the motor or whatever does not. Is that normal? PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Check the mechanical timing (=timing belt has cam and crank synchronized at TDC1). If it's fine, check whether you can push start the engine.

 

my timing is off. according to another guy who had the same problem believes that it got off because i must of put the distibutor on wrong (180*). what do you think?

 

I saw in your other thread. Buy a new timing belt, install it, set the mechanical timing correctly, and then compression test the cylinders.

As you don't need the distributor installed correctly to set the mechanical timing, I doubt this theory. I also think it would be very difficult to install the distributor 180-degrees off.

 

what does the motor do when you start it or does it start at all

does it run rough?

does it even start?

does it have problems getting up to higher rpms?

 

here's DIY on how to check if you motor is timed right

 

Yes, take of the distributor and turn the little thing that goes into the cam 180 u might have turned it accedently this is only the case with aftermarket dizzy since oem ones fit in only 1 way, since u do have spark and fuel, that should be it, if u do have a aftermarket dizzy. And ur firing order is correct???? Take a pix and post it to verify if th car starts before and ran find I assume, there shall be no problem with it timing

 

Oh and forgot u said u try to crank it and then it slowly dies down? Is ur battery getting 12 v? But ur firing order must be wrong.

 

well from what i know there 2 sets of firing orders for d-series maybe even more
here's the two i know

--------------flat side
---------3
-----1------4
---------2

and the other is

----------------flat side
------------2
---------4-----1
------------3

when you think of how the roater turns they both fire 1,3,4,2
seems like some distro just run on odd wire placement

 

after talking to the ninja. his timing was off, it runs now. now hes going to go swap back with our other friend the correct obd dizzy.

 

thanks everyone for all the feedback, i got it running! dont ask me how, but my timing got off. i got that all straightend out and it fired right up.

the weird thing is now im not getting a CEL #4 (crankshaft position sensor), gut i am still getting CEL #7 (TPS) and CEL #41 (o2 sensor, heater sensor). any thoughts?

I am running a skunk2 intake manifold and a test pipe. are these things somehow causing it?