i have the dual cam vtec head from the original b16a2, i found a b18a1 from an integra. what do you guys think?

 

do it.
you gona love it.

 

It will be funner to drive and more powerful than just the b16a2, I would do the LS-V or even do a CR-V. Torque is fun!

 

well the block is out of an integra ls..... so wouldnt that be an ls/vtec? also any piston sujustions?

 

yes, this would give you a ls.vtec
id go cp, but there are alot of others out there, also look into a set of rods so she can survive those high rpms.

 

i took a look at those pistons. theyre a bit pricy. but they look pretty nice.. thank for the tip!

 

here is a picture of the current block im pulling out tomorrow. the arrows show the holes that got stripped when the previous owner did a block swap and over torqued it.... needless to say he could have ruined the whole motor cuz hes an idiot. but im rebuilding it. im picking up a b18a1 block tomorrow morning and taking it to the machine shop to have it cleaned and compression tested. ill post more pics if any one is interested.

 

you can take the block to a machine shop and they can fix those

 

I talked to three shops they all said they coukdntnt cuz it wouldn't hold

 

timesert it

 

do the ls block. Just build it up right or your gonna have issues. If you don't plan on boosting go high compression. Either way you will have a blast.

 

Do the Ls block,and throw some p30's or pr-3's in it.......If there is nothing wrong with the pr-3's in your b16a2,just use those and save a few hundred bucks!

 

Stock ls rods with ARP rod bolts will work perfectly............8k no issues.........

 

^^ how long have you been reving it to 8k and how often do you do it?
never said it wouldnt work just saying if hes going to spend the money on pistons why trust stock rods.
oh and by the way just cause it works for you doesnt mean it will for him.

 

Very true! It takes a bit more than just putting a v-tec head on and going. Make sure that you are building for it. The right rotating assembly with the right block and a good idea of where you want to go with it from the get-go. There is a lot more to it than most people think. Do some research.

 

You guys kill me.He does NOT need to buy aftermarket pistons,like I said,pr-3's like he ALREADY HAS in his B16 are PERFECT for an LsVtec... And as far as rods are concerned,the Ls rod is stronger than you think. All it needs to support 8k++++++= is ARP rod bolts. THATS IT. Think smarter,not harder or more expensive!. You do not need aftermarket this and that to make it reliable.Go to the all motor forum and poke around. Or ask one of the 1000000000000000000 people here that have one.As long as he is not trying to do some stupid **** like spin it to 8500+ with stock B16 cams like some idiot,he will be FINE doing what I mentioned...........Go do some research.( I roadrace. I know enough about these setups,run them,and have seen enough with bottom ends like I described spinning BEYOND 8700 RPM on a ROADCOURSE with zero issues. And making 190+ whp+ with the described bottom end and a mildly ported head and Toda B's) any questions,just ask or PM me.Or,like I said 10 times already,go ask in the all motor forum and see what other people are running. there are a MILLION LSVtec posts there. Iit's not rocket science and can be done more easily than a lot of you think.....)Brett,who's fingers and brain are flipping tired now

 

and whatever you do,please don't build it with the stock ls slugs when you have pr-3's already..... That would just be retarded beyond retarded..... And I have seen retarded around here........

 

^^ still didnt answer the questions!!
i know the rods are fine and i never said he need them!, the ls piston were not desgined for that kind of rpms and his **** will blow!! i wasnt simply saying why put expensive aftermarket pistons in and trust oem rods. never said he needed them,

 

Well,I thought I answered everything I needed to answer.He should be able to drive that damn thing just like any other B series Vtec motor.If someone with half a brain assembles it,and the machine work is done properly,there should not be any issues.Vtec all damn day if he wants. As long as he dosent drive it like a ham fisted idiot,he will be fine.As far as how long have I? Long enough.My friends have gone over 40K.Still going strong,still spinning to 8800. Not that IIIIIII would do that,but they have not had any issues.........Hell,theirs could pop tomo. Anyones motor could.

 

^^ that was my point just becaus it works for your buddys means NOITHING,
oh, and you said you rev 8k with no issues but now its your buddys??? a ls.vtec should have no issue lasting 40k but i doubt he revs to 8k enough to cause any damage.
never said he couldnt rev to 8k but its not smart

 

With ARP bolts 8k is NOT AN ISSUE! For me,my friends,ANYONE! Leave the stock rod bolts in there and see what happens. The #1 thing to do to an lsvtec right off the bat is to add the rod bolts so you can take advantage of the better flowing head( moooore rpm)It's worked for hundreds on THIS SITE as well. research! you will see I am not trying to blow smoke up your ***.I actually KNOW about these darn things from expierence.

 

You have no idea how he drives his car.He is hard on it. It has lasted because he did what his builder recommended.Hell,his car did not even make PEAK power till 8450.You are underestimating what a really simple setup can do.

 

I suggest you read this https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...eliable+lsvtec

 

My favorite part of the thread I posted just now.................Well, obviously everyone's opinion is going to be different on this....
here's mine:
Everyone argues about how the LS bottom end isn't rev-friendly. And they're right; in stock form it isn't. It uses the same rivet-sized rod bolts as the sohc motors. It also has a disadvantage in the bearing design, as it doesn't use the Tri-metal design as the GSR/ITR/CTR's bearings are.
I've alleviated that problem. I've upgraded to the Larger ARP rod bolts, as well as the Tri-metal ACL bearings, which help in oil retention at the higher RPM's. Now, before anyone mentions the R/S ratio....blah blah blah. The GSR/ITR/H22 R/S ratio is 1.58 as compared to the LS's 1.54...do you really think that is what contributes to the stock 1800 RPM redline difference? Somewhat....but the answer is "no". The LS rods aren't any weaker either.
Also, the B18a/b motor had a totally difference purpose, which is evident in it's design. Smaller cams, non vtec, different water pump, different sizing on the intake and exhaust, smaller ports, more displacement, etc. It was marketed to a different crowd.
I take my LSvtec motor to 8600. Rarely do BC4's or S2S2's carry power past 9k without extensive flow work like ITB's, head port work, header design, etc.....at least in the dyno's i've seen that's how it usually works. BC4's and S2S2's don't NEED 9500 rpm. In fact, the BC4's outperform nearly every other cam on the market up to the vtec engagement point. I think the BC4's compliment the LS bottom's torque curve properites, as well as the higher piston speeds the lower R/S ratio produce.
When comparing a lower R/S ratio block to a higher R/S ratio block, you should know that the lower R/S ratio block will have higher piston speeds at the same RPM. This is also an advantage, as it "pulls" air harder into the cylinder. What I am saying, with all other things constant, the 1.54 RS ratio will pull in more air at a given RPM than the 1.58 or 1.76 RS ratio. But, a lower R/S ratio will put more stress on the crank and bearings...that's a proven fact. As long as you build a block to handle the added stress, then the lower the R/S ratio, the better.
Honestly, my bottom end wouldn't worry me if and when I decide to take it to 9500 rpms. I'd be more worried about the valve spring/retainer combo one decided to use to carry that RPM. Also, in any motor, the higher the RPMS, the better the tune needs to be due to the excessive heat.
With that said, there's also the water pump issue. Vtec blocks have more teeth on the water pump. Why's that? To HELP cooling at higher RPM's, where the heat exchange needs to be greater. There's alot more factors than appear on the surface hear when comparing an LS's safe revability vs. a GSR/ITR/CTR.

I've sat my motor at 8600 on the highway for nearly 45 seconds once.....redlining fifth gear the whole time. I trust my motor, and I trust my builder: me.

I've also got a link that shows the effects of changing the RS ratio. By using a 1cm longer rod, they only effectively raised the redline by 1.5%...a whopping 120 total extra safe RPM...not even anything worth mentioning is it?
There is alot of mis-information floating around on this board about RS ratio's and how they affect a motor. People read something on here about RS ratio...and they adopt it right away as "law", and then start regurgitating (sp?) it to all of their friends verbatim...what a shame.

I suggest anyone wanting to learn more about RS ratio's and how they affect every aspect of a motor, do the research and form your own opinions.


Modified by bambam at 3:55 AM 7/6/2006
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im not underestimating ****, i know what im talking about i have built ls.vtecs and i have seem them blow into a million peices because they didnt use the correct parts or do it right, i know all he needs is rod bolts, i have done before, and the motor is in a race hatch turning 8k+ all day. just trying to make sure he knows the risk if he doesnt do some things.

as far as me saying stuff about rods its casue HE WANTS AFTERMARKET PISTONS!!, so i said look at rods,
i really dont care how he drives it, i highly doubt hes going to be harder on it then my friend is.