backfire???
What causes a backfire......??? I was driving my car tonight and it was backfirein(not a sharp loud backfire but more of a low sounding backfire) hard to explain..
My exhuast also gerguls at about 4000 rpms and under, when decelerating..What gives?? I was thinking it was a TBS problem, or a ingetor problem.Any idea's?
I have a JDM H22a Ob1........It also cuts out sometimes( like 50% power)mostly when im sitting at a red light and start, the power climbs,then feels like the timing gets retarded to full retard)Its pissing me off!!!!
I tryed everthing(fuel pump,cap,rotor,wires,pluges,FPR)nothing has worked....I think i got a lemon..It idels fine,but when going at speed(60 mph) push in the clutch, the idel drops to 900Rpms and jumps up to 1200 Rpms and stays there for awhile(30-60 sec) and drops back to 900rpms...I also cant mess with my Idel control screw,if I turn up the idel, the RPMs will go up and down...I dont have a exhaust leak, so their should be nno popping and gerguling sound.....God im pissed
Help please.......
My exhuast also gerguls at about 4000 rpms and under, when decelerating..What gives?? I was thinking it was a TBS problem, or a ingetor problem.Any idea's?
I have a JDM H22a Ob1........It also cuts out sometimes( like 50% power)mostly when im sitting at a red light and start, the power climbs,then feels like the timing gets retarded to full retard)Its pissing me off!!!!
I tryed everthing(fuel pump,cap,rotor,wires,pluges,FPR)nothing has worked....I think i got a lemon..It idels fine,but when going at speed(60 mph) push in the clutch, the idel drops to 900Rpms and jumps up to 1200 Rpms and stays there for awhile(30-60 sec) and drops back to 900rpms...I also cant mess with my Idel control screw,if I turn up the idel, the RPMs will go up and down...I dont have a exhaust leak, so their should be nno popping and gerguling sound.....God im pissed
Help please.......
Hey Cottonwoodz I am currently having the same type of problem and it is driving me crazy
I have a 2.3 vtec motor and I recentyly blew the timing belt and bent the valves. I got the valves and everything replaced adn the head put back on but know the thing runs like ****. The check engine light is still on( it was on before the whole timing belt issue) and is still throwing the same code 9 which is supposed to be the distributer. I replaced the distributer but still have the engine light on and same code! The bogging never happened before the timing belt problem but happens now. Anyone have any suggestions. I am at a loss. My current mechanic thinks it is the ECU but I don't think so (its a p13 chipped) everything is OBD I (block is from a 93 2.3non-vtec and head is a 97 vtec). I currently have type-s pistons, shot peened rods, micropolished crank, all new bearings, fuel pressure regulator, clutchmaster clutch stage 2 (i think) and an LSD tranny. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2.3 vtec motor and I recentyly blew the timing belt and bent the valves. I got the valves and everything replaced adn the head put back on but know the thing runs like ****. The check engine light is still on( it was on before the whole timing belt issue) and is still throwing the same code 9 which is supposed to be the distributer. I replaced the distributer but still have the engine light on and same code! The bogging never happened before the timing belt problem but happens now. Anyone have any suggestions. I am at a loss. My current mechanic thinks it is the ECU but I don't think so (its a p13 chipped) everything is OBD I (block is from a 93 2.3non-vtec and head is a 97 vtec). I currently have type-s pistons, shot peened rods, micropolished crank, all new bearings, fuel pressure regulator, clutchmaster clutch stage 2 (i think) and an LSD tranny. Any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.
No im currently running Heat range 6...I got my Air/fuel meter installed and some times when im at idel it reads 1-2 bars in the green(which is rich) and it just stays there..Isnt it supposed to go up and down from lean to stoich when at idel?
Thats what it does half the time.And when I give it Wide open throttle it stays Just before the rich(7-9 bars stoich) then when I let off the throttle it jumps 1-2 bars green(rich) then back down..I was told when you give it wide open throttle its suppose to go rich(in the green)So Im thinking it might be getting to much fuel at idel and then when I start moving it bogs untill the excess fuel is consumed..Does that make sense to anyone????
Thats what it does half the time.And when I give it Wide open throttle it stays Just before the rich(7-9 bars stoich) then when I let off the throttle it jumps 1-2 bars green(rich) then back down..I was told when you give it wide open throttle its suppose to go rich(in the green)So Im thinking it might be getting to much fuel at idel and then when I start moving it bogs untill the excess fuel is consumed..Does that make sense to anyone????
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No im currently running Heat range 6...I got my Air/fuel meter installed and some times when im at idel it reads 1-2 bars in the green(which is rich) and it just stays there..Isnt it supposed to go up and down from lean to stoich when at idel?
Thats what it does half the time.And when I give it Wide open throttle it stays Just before the rich(7-9 bars stoich) then when I let off the throttle it jumps 1-2 bars green(rich) then back down..I was told when you give it wide open throttle its suppose to go rich(in the green)So Im thinking it might be getting to much fuel at idel and then when I start moving it bogs untill the excess fuel is consumed..Does that make sense to anyone????
Thats what it does half the time.And when I give it Wide open throttle it stays Just before the rich(7-9 bars stoich) then when I let off the throttle it jumps 1-2 bars green(rich) then back down..I was told when you give it wide open throttle its suppose to go rich(in the green)So Im thinking it might be getting to much fuel at idel and then when I start moving it bogs untill the excess fuel is consumed..Does that make sense to anyone????
I have the stock o2 senser that came with the motor..I will try 7 heat range pluges and see if that helps..Im currently running bosch platinum 4's with a heat range of 6, I used to have NGK laser platinum(PZFR6F-11) ($11.99 a plug)but they started to make the engine misfire in high revs(mostly in Vtec)in like a month of use.. So I put the bosch's in (CHEAPER) had the bosch's in for almost 3 1/2 months now(no misfire's).When I pulled the NGK's out they had a red tint(glossey redish color
) I was also told that the NGK's are really sensitve to fouling out(After foulin out once they are pretty much junk
) dont know if that is true or not..
I will order some NGK (PZFR7F-11) or can you use a none platinum plug like the NGK V-Power plugs??(thats what I ran in my H23a1, but NGK dont list them for the Vtec)I would rather run the V-power if I could($11.99 a plug .Vs $2.00 a plug)
) I was also told that the NGK's are really sensitve to fouling out(After foulin out once they are pretty much junk
) dont know if that is true or not..I will order some NGK (PZFR7F-11) or can you use a none platinum plug like the NGK V-Power plugs??(thats what I ran in my H23a1, but NGK dont list them for the Vtec)I would rather run the V-power if I could($11.99 a plug .Vs $2.00 a plug)
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pcguy760
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jun 5, 2009 09:38 AM




