Tons of threads on oil coolers, but this topic was never fully discussed.

I was planning on a Mocal sandwich plate with a built in thermostat:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...Sandwich_Plate

But after reading some threads, there has been some comments on thermostat's being too restrictive and causing pressure drops. Some others claim no such drops. So I'm a little confused.

The major con that I see of not running a thermostat is getting the oil up to temp on a cold start. And cooling the oil too much during winter driving (which can be sorta fixed with cardboard as I've learned).

My car is driven to and from the track.

Any thoughts or opinions on whether or not a thermostat should be used?

 

I have a pretty sizeable cooler (FC RX7), and no thermostat. On really cold days it takes a few minutes to get up to temp, but beyond that I've never had a problem. In the spring, summer, and fall it gets up to temp just as fast as without the cooler. My brother at one point had one of the Mocal thermostat sandwich plates but had issues with it (the thermostat was stuck closed I think?). That's just one isolated incident, but was enough that I didn't see the potential benefit outweighing the potential hassle.

<--- NA B20B, for reference.

 

^What brand sandwich plate did you end up going with? Mocal had a good reputation from what I read. All the others seem to be just Ebay specials.
I've heard to stay away from the cast ones and stick with the machined block ones.

 

Yea, I ran mine w/o a thermostat for a couple years with no cold weather (driving in the snow from summit to nj/ny) issues. My core wasn't that large (old b&m kit).

 

I believe my sandwich plate is Mocal. The only issue I've ever had is replacing the rubber O-ring gasket. The ones that came with it kind of fit like ****, and were a real hassle to mount properly sealed against the block. Unfortunately, I don't remember what the ultimate solution was I haven't heard of that problem from other people though, so it might've been something weird with mine specifically.

 

No need to run thermostat. Just make sure you don't romp on the car until the oil get at least 120 deg. You run a turbo car, the oil will get up to temp really quick. Even on my NA car it gets to temp really quick.

I use a cheap Perma Cool adapter plate and remote oil filter mount.

 

That remote filter mount always scared me so I took mine out. But I think my lines were the wrong size so the pressure was never where I wanted it. Not the huge filter the kit called for.

 

^ Wrong size which way? I've read debates between -10 and -8 lines.

 

I'd use at least -10 lines. -8 might be enough if the hose length is short. However, given you will put the cooler in the front of the car, -10 is needed.

Given yours is turbo car, you might need a big cooler. Or a really good one if packaging is an issue

 

I'm using -10 lines and had a very minor pressure drop. I typically see ~65-70psi at load on track.

 

Posted the same question in the roadrace website:
http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?t=24672

Some opinions claim an external thermostat is recommended and will not cause restriction. I'm not sure how it can not be restricting somehow. I'm currently planning on not running one simply because it eliminates one more then that can go wrong. I just need to put a little sticker near my oil temp gauge that says "No fun till 120".

 

Just make a point of starting the car a few minutes before a session to get it warmed up. That guy is also basing his ideas off of air-cooled P-cars, with an entirely different oiling and cooling system than yours.

 

adam, sander was telling me what kind of oil temps you were seeing before you put the cooler. he cringed!! it was funny.

 

The output ports on the perma-cool sandwich plate I just bought are only 3/8" NPT. Does it make a difference to use larger size lines if the input and output at the block is a restrictive size? Also, I'm going to use the old oil cooler off my dad's Ford Ranger (it's about the size of a sheet of notebook paper, 8"x11" or so). The port's on it are only about 3/8" diameter, too. Would I gain anything by using a larger than 3/8" I.D. line if the ends still need to be reduced?

 

On my turbo ITR, I've been running a Mocal 25 row cooler with a Mocal sandwich plate with thermostat and OEM water to oil cooler/heater and -10 lines for years with no issues. No leaks either so seals are good. Oil temps are good at around 230F for 300 WHP on hot days. Might be a benefit to removing OEM water to oil sandwich or even going to a Mocal sandwich plate with no thermostat, but if it ain't broke, why fix it. And I rather think that 180F is a better oil temperature to wait for to start pushing hard.

 

I use a mocal dedicated thermostat and it only opens on the track after a lap so if like me you drive to and from the track (you do), I suggest you get one, it's cheap insurance.

I dislike filter adaptor, but I can't argue on why. I use a serial dedicated thermostat with a Canton Racing remote 20 micron filter, all with -10an lines. Had some pressure trouble with my old motor so I did several on and off tests, and the Mocal thermostat + CT filter doesn't give me ANY pressure drop (not 1 psi with a mechanical automometer full sweep gauge). The catch can set up was my problem if you wonder.

I say get the whole thing unless your car is trailored. I was really surprised at Canton Racing product quality, and filter cartridge are very cheap and last forever.

 

Because of the "Autobahn" and amunts of trackdays people take part here in Germany nearly every Honda gots an external oilcooler. Nearly everybody runs them with a thermostat.
No problems seems to be occured by using this combinations.

Hope it helps you.