i've wired it up twice thinking i spliced the wrong wire..

This is performed on a 99 civic ex with a 99-00 SI wiring harness with a obd2b-obd1 jumper to me obd1 p28
anyways, d14 is the 5 slot over from the right on connector D right?, i followed the wire to the jumper harness and cut it, wired it to the white wire on my AEM UEGO. While i'm datalogging the sensor doesn't read in my software, i enabled the 02 heater and my CEL comes on for the sensor..

so then i tried another wire and the same thing happened..



i DO have a DVOM, at idle with the gauge reading 14.7 what should the voltage be coming off of the white wire? do you guys have a conversion chart so i can make sure the white wire off of my wideband is giving an output correctly?

 

did u actually use a laptop to set the hondata to read this signal? u have to activate that option in smanager in parameters, just wiring it up wont automatically make it read on the ecu.

 

I think voltage depends on the sensor, the typical wideband output is 0-5v with 2.37 being stoich 14.7:1. 0 rich, 5 lean/air.

Tap into the conversion harness and not the engine harness to make sure you're into the correct slot. Also like PACT said, you need to enable D14 as the wideband input in Smanager, can't remember if you need to disable whatever D14 was originally or not as well. I think it's the alternator/electrical load or something like that.

 

yes i did enable it in the software, slot D14 is actually the stock o2 sensor wire.. i just read around and everyone said use the D10 slot which is the ELD, because the D15 slot doesn't read higher than 3.5v.. i'm going to tap D10 after i get off work and see if that works..

also i read somewhere i can disable the o2 heater, but i can still get a reading from my wideband if wired properly?

 

i use a PLX wideband myself on my s300, n have it wired into the ELD spot. i also have the o2 heater disabled cuz the plx wideband reads both wideband n narrowband, so the PLX also takes place of my stock o2 sensor, so i have no o2 heater anyways.

 

so what exactly is the difference between the o2 heater and sensor?

 

well i wired it into what i think is the D10 slot, but the voltage inside of my software doesn't change

none of it changes whenever my a/f gauge flucuates from 11.-14.0

how do i know if i wired it in correctly?

the o2 heater is disabled, ELD is disabled, i have the input for slot D10 which is the ELD imput..

 

i'm using D14 and it's working fine with my aem wideband. make sure your reading the plug properly. I made this mistake wiring mine, I was reading the plug looking at it from the end that goes into the ecu not the wire side of the plug and reading the pins from left to right. you read the the pin outs looking at the plug from the WIRE SIDE left to right
1 3 5 7 9
2 4 6 8 10 etc

 

oops. haha well before i wired the white wire to my headlights (for lumination) is there a possibility i could've messed something up?

 

I have the innovative lc1 and for the life of me i couldnt get it to work in the spots d10 and d12. Called hondata and they kept telling me i had something wired wrong blah blah. So all i did was switch to pin d14 and it works.

 

gosh dangit, i've done like 6 different wires. still no workey

 

No offense intended here but, When you are tapping into these wires. Are you ensuring that the original sensor/circuit (ELD) is physically disconnected first? Disabling the circuit in the software will not stop the sensor from sending it's voltage signal to the ECU. It only tells the ECU to ignore that signal when processing the incoming data. You have to physically disconnect the appropriate sensor first. If you are tapping into a wire that is still connected to a sensor your WB will not work properly.

 

Oh one more thing, I'm not that familiar with Hondata's SManage or the s300 for that matter. But from what I have seen in the Smanager settings. The best alternate analog input for use with a wide band would be D12 (EGR lift) However, You need to ad a 1uF capacitor to C42 for proper operation. Then under options/settings/analog input 1 you would place your wideband voltage & value numbers.

For example,
Voltage = Value (AFR)
0.00 = 7.25
2.37 = 14.7
5.00 = 20

 

Physically disconnect from the Sensor or what? once you snip the wire, the sensor can no longer send a voltage signal to the ECU, can it?

 

You are correct, sorry I didn't see that you snipped the wire. Reading owns me

Did you get a chance to look into setting your analog input in SManager?

 

By the way, the wideband has its own heater, so in the software you are just turning off the O2 heater and its CEL for the stock O2 which was already disabled. Turning off the O2 heater in the Smanager does not affect your wideband heater or its operation.

 

What if you have your wideband HO2S wired in place of the OEM HO2S.

One of my wideband O2s is hooked up using the 4 original HO2S wires. My second WB O2 is also using 3 of the 4 original O2 wires. With the exception of the signal wire. I'm using D12 for that input.

eCtune is great for utilizing & configuring unused inputs.

 

Well darnit, since i have a obd2b-obd1 jumper harness I follow the wire over to the jumper harness and snip/splice the wire.. I've used all the imputs and I still can't get a reading.

On my output wire on my AEM UEGO (white) wire which wire do i connect it to from the oem HO2S wires?

 

Are you planning on removing your stock O2 sensor and running the wideband in it's place all the time?

 

see, i'm not sure about that. i was gonna try to wire both to see what the difference is in city driving with a factory o2, and running closed loop to see if i get better mileage..


right now i'm just using my wideband and no narrowband

 

if you continue using no narrowband you will not be able to run closed loop operation in the future....just to save you a headache ahead of time figured I would tell you