Hey been a while just wondering if someone could help me out?!

been having some car starting issues and flashing D4 light which won't let me start the car when that is flashing! Someone told me to take out my TCU which I did but it looked brand new and perfect condition. So I took out my ECU and that is kind of burnt in a couple of spots!

Im throwing some trouble codes for the flashing D4, which are code 7, code 8, code 13, code 14. the link below lists the codes and problems for the TCU?!

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/hondadtc.shtml

I been having this flashing D4 problem for a few years now and just let it go but in the last little bit it has gotten really bad. If it flashed I would just let the car sit for about 5 minutes and it would usually start right up, but not no more...

Just wondering if the ECU could be causing all of this and throwing off all them sensor codes?!

Thanks any help is greatly appreciated!!

1994 Honda Accord Ex Canadian Lx american!!

 

It sound like the D4 flashing is from a bad switch or sensor. Who knows about the others

 

is BAD GROUND WIRE, check the ground wires

 

Thanks guys!!

another quick question, also when i pulled the codes there was one really quick flash! would that be a code 0 or 1?! it was a really quick flash, i almost missed it!

thanks again!

 

So I finally got my hands on a used ECM (there hard to come by...) I installed the new ECM and reset the codes. The car worked fine for about a week, then back to all my problems. The car just randomly died while driving. The CEL, battery light, oil light, and D4 light all came on when it died. The car also starts hard, the CEL is throwing a code 8 which someone told me is to do with the distributor?! (CEL code 8 - TDC, Ignition Coil Signal) I know I should just go to a dealer but I don't have the funds right now to blow... trying to pick at it piece by piece myself. I don't know if the code 8 is having anything to do with throwing off the flashing D4 light?

Also you can tell when the car is going to start or not, it kind of makes like a noise like power is going to something and if you hear this you know its going to start... but when you don't hear this the car doesn't start and the CEL stays on the the D4 light flashes.

Anyways thanks for all the help on here guys over the years!!

hopefully I can get this problem figured out, and hopefully its not a big problem just something little.


thanks again,

 

What light is flashing when you short the SCS connector. The check engine light or D4 light? They have separate code lists. The list of trouble codes that you listed is for the PGM-FI system (ECU). If you have a flashing D4 light. That is the TCU and it has an entirely different list of codes.

What flash codes are you getting from each light?

Code 8 from the CEL is a Top Dead Center error code. And it has to do with your distributor. Do you have any sort of shop manual for your car?

 

They both flash...

CEL code 8
D4 - Codes, 7,8,13,14

my CEL used to just stay on but since i got a new ECM its pulling a code 8!!

I just went out and messed around with the car again. Turn the key nothing car will not start, CEL is on solid, D4 light is flashing, Battery light is on solid, and Oil light is on solid!

pretty sure Code 8 for the CEL is TDC and Ignition Coil Signal?!


D4 Codes
Code 13: No specific symptom. Possible cause, short or open in Blu/Wht wire between the D3 terminal and ECM; or faulty Barometric Sensor (Baro sensor may be built into ECM).

Code 14: Symptom: Transmission jerks hard when shifting. Possible cause, short or open in Brn/Wht wire between D16 wire and ECM, or Faulty ECM.

Code 8: Symptom: Fails to shift (stuck in 1st or 4th gear). Possible cause, disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector, or short or open in shift control solenoid valve B wire, or faulty shift control solenoid.

not sure what code 7 is for the TCU?!

and yes i have a haynes book or whatever that is it!

 

The Diagnostic Trouble Code 8 has nothing to do with the ignition coil. It is the TDC (Top Dead Center Position sensor) If that is not working properly your car will not start Unfortunately if it is toast, you will need a new distributor. There is no replacing the TDC sensor individually. Your Haynes manual should give you the procedure for testing the TDC sensor. The check procedure is found in chapter 6 page 8 in the Haynes manual for the 94-97 Accord.

Code 7 is the same as 8 but it's shift control solenoid valve A.

If you have a Haynes manual you should start troubleshooting the DTCodes that you currently have. Resolve those first and see how that works out for you.

Now on top of all this you mentioned that your ECU looks burnt in a couple of spots, can you post up some pictures. This could very well be the cause of your problems.

 

Ok thanks, im trying to get my hands on a ohm meter now... to test it. Yes my ECM was burnt in a spot or two but since this post I installed a new ECM!

again thanks,

 

I was talking to a retired mechanic tonight and i explained to him my problems! he said it sounds like a fuel pump to him! just wondering if anyone else had some type of problem like this and the fuel pump was the cause?

again thanks for all your help on here guys!!

 

I would tend to agree with the fuel system. Given that you only hear the pump prime on the occasions that your car starts. That is the fuel pump priming that you hear when it sounds like something energizing. Check your main relay. Also you will need to fix any non fuel related PGM-FI DTCodes as well.

Use your manual and test the fuel system including the main relay.

 

Omg?!?! Did you fix it?!?!

lol youve used question mark/exclamation point for like every sentence!?

Anyway, from what ive read over time, the D4 light could definetly be your Transmission computer, AT ECU, AT computer, whatever you want to call it. And like the others said, the codes for that are seperate from the engine computer codes. And I would replace the distributor too.

 

No I didn't fix it lol, and ?!?!?!?! is just a habit from chat programs lol

I was told my TCU is fine, going to try and mess around with the main relay today, rip that out and take a peak at it. Hopefully that is my problem.

 

Having some trouble finding the actual main relay. Not 100% sure of where it is, maybe someone could pin point me in the right direction. Someone told me it was right above the fuse panel on the drivers side? i pulled out the 3 there that i could see but none of them said "main relay" on them. Searched google and said it is under the hood somewheres, so i kept searching and another site said it was right under the steering wheel on the right of it, directly across from the fuse panel.


thanks again,

 

The main relay is not located in ether of the fuse/relay boxes.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulleti...elay-fix-54415

This link is for the Acura legend. But I'm pretty sure the main relay is in the same location in the 5th gen Accord. I know they look the same as this one does.

 

This may help. Here's what you're looking for, it should be just forward of the Fuse box under the dash....



P

 

Thanks guys!! found it, got a hold of a junk yard they can't get it out till tomorrow, so I will grab it tomorrow and hopefully problem solved.

thanks again,

 

Thanks for the pics and help, those pics helped alot! I wouldn't of been able to find the thing without the pics. Guess I pulled the wrong ones at first lol

Anyways finally got a relay from the junk yard and put it in and so far so good!!!! but its only been a couple hours of it working. Hopefully this was my problem.

again thanks for the much needed help everyone,

 

Good luck and thanks for the update.

Now you can practice your soldering skills and repair your original at your leisure.
Most of them fail from substandard solder joints.
There SHOULD be a "how-to" in the FAQ section at the top pf this sub-forum

P

 

haha no thanks, i left the old relay right in there couldn't get it out!!

well its been a week today and the car is working great!! thanks alot guys. So if anyone has this type of problem check the ECM, and your main relay!!

Hopefully the car keeps working too lol

 

Well its been just about 7 weeks and not a problem yet, it seemed to of fixed this problem for now, hopefully for good!

first i changed my ecm or ecu cause that was fried, then changed my main fuel pump relay and the cars been working great since!

again thanks to everyone on here that helped out!

 

Hello, I'm getting error code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position Sensor.... Totally mechanically Impaired. I just need to know if anybody has any idea how hard or easy it is, so i don't get overcharged. Ecu, distributor, valve cover gasket, cables, and spark plugs all replaced. Any help would be appreciated.

If this is not the correct area, I apologize, please just direct me to the correct posting. Thanks!

 

My car has some of the same problems. I bought my car a little over a year ago and it has been sitting for the most part of this year. First It would stop and wait a few minutes and the D4 light would blink and drive fine and the main fuel pump relay would make this static type of noise. I changed my thermostat, radiator, alternator, and the main fuel pump relay! I took it it one shop and told them to change my fuel pump, He insisted that was not the problem. He changed my main fuel pump relay it drove fine for a couple of months but now it only will start about once a day. Haven't moved it in about 2 months afraid it might not work.

Please help me in school need my car!!!