drove car to work fine
got off work and it was 1am and drove off fine with hid's(8k) and some other stuff on
now once driving i turn on stereo and heat, car almost immedietly bogs at about 2800-3500 rpm
when i hit wot it somewhat goes away

now here the good part, once i turn off the electronics the car goes fine immedietly, this is what i did

cars bogging 3k rpm, turn off heat and stereo and dim lights, no boggig
or turn of hid's and no bogging


im stuck really and need some suggestions on what to test, im thinking battery/altrnator maybe tps sensor

no cel

 

Are the battery connections clean and tight? Is the alternator belt loose? Otherwise, the alternator may be on its last leg.

 

im thinking the alternator is it too, ill be buying a new volt meter tmmarow, i cant find mine

but would shortage of power cause tbs sensor to go off
i get code 7 sometimes

 

ok got a volt meter and checked voltages

12.2 volts on battery(this is a gel braille) battery, while cars off of course

and when cars on the battery is pushing out 13.7-13.8 volts, sounds good to me

so whats wrong
is my alt too weak or needs more output, guy told me to hook up two batteries to it or a larger one

notice this only happens when my electronics are on(hid's,stereo,heat and such) when i turn them off everyhting goes good

and my lights dim at idle when i give it gas it slowly goes bright and normal

 

stills bogging under electrical load,

i just checkded and the battery is pushing 12.8 volts
and under electrical load when car is on the battery shows 12.4 volts, thats with hid and stuff on

 

I think the battery and charging system are fine.

 

what else is left than
it only does it when i put on my electronics

 

check all your grounds.. it could also be the ELD going bad.. is your distributor timed correctly? just another thing to think about..

 

grounds checked and some retightened and cleaned

could it be that im using a small braille cf battery pushing 200 amp cold
its a samll battery

 

could be since 12.2v for an automitve battery is actually 50 percent charged.

i really have nothing else to comment on...im kind of lost but bad batteries can do weird things.

how old is the battery?

what are you running for a radio?..subs? amplifier? 12.4 with electronics on isnt really charging...

ill wait with a reply before i continue on

 

it could be that you have a bad ground some where. do you have a system

 

i had the same problem with my tsx

 

no system

 

i might beielbe it could be the feul pump, just put a new battery in and same old same, even hooked up two batteries to it

 

ok i took of the tbp sensor and the car runs like a charm wit everyhting on, but once i connect it same thing starts to happen again
could i have a bad tbp sensor, ill be replacing it soon with a new tb and gaskets

 

I think you found the problem. Do you mean TPS?

 

I believe he does Ron.

Just make sure WOT and idle are adjusted to correct voltages (WOT being adjusted first) and it should run like clockwork.

 

you mean when i put a new one in right
i probaly dont have to adjust because ill be putting in a used tb with one on it
yeah meant tps srry
thanks again guys

 

Yes.

And you are correct that your new used one should be set correctly because it is already attached. Unless you know it worked fine when it was last used, just do a quick voltage check to make sure when you install it.

 

ok i got an ls tb and it wouldnt fit, i think my car has a accord one so i took of the tps and put it on my car and its doing the same thing

how do i adjust it

 

Sounds like the alternator. The voltage while on should be AT LEAST 12.66

 

I agree with ^^^ The ELD should see that electronic load is there and jump up the voltage from the alt. Just remember the stock map on you car has an adjustment for the battery voltage offset. That means that the lower the volts the higher the ms the injectors have to fire. Im guessing that the ALT is not amping up to the higher demand of power therefore not delivering the volts needed. My civic does 14.2 v when headlights and ac is on. Just some info

 

Adjustment for WOT is done by loosening the screws holding it onto the TB and moving the TPS left and right. I honestly forget which way moves the voltage up or down, but just play with it until you reach spec (4.5v).

Adjustment for idle is done by turning the idle screw on the TB. Its different places on different TB's but you should be able to find it fairly easily. Spec voltage is 0.45v to 0.50v.

 

adjusted still same thing happeing, runs fine without headlights and heat on, and runs fine if its not plugged in no matter whats on

 

I just did post-to-post battery voltage tests (on my 97 Civic DX with <1year old battery and alternator) that make me in agreement with this idea that the alternator is the culprit.

Here are my results:

Car off -- 12.89V
Car idling no electrical load -- 14.34V
Car idling high electrical load (high beams, A/C, blower max) -- 14.01V

OP -- Have your alternator tested. I think replacing it may solve your problem.