Just got my Energy Suspension LCA bushings installed, which was a major bitch to do without a press, but completely worth it. Much tighter steering now.

The weird thing is this new popping noise whenever I hit a bump, even small ones. It's like the pin inside the bushing is moving around, but those bolts are cranked down so tight I'm afraid they'll break if I crank them any further.

If pins *are* still moving, does that mean they're supposed to have some kind room to move around? I don't see why they would, but they definitely can't get bolted down any tighter.

me <-- confused

 

so am i, normally there is no noise and everything is peachy. before long someone will post on how much they hate ES even though it's often install error or they are just repeating what someone told them. what exactly causes this noise and did you grease the holy hell out of em when you installed?

 

I don't know what causes the noise, just that it happened right after installing the bushings. It's possible that they aren't greased good enough, but not sure why that matters. Maybe the pin is supposed to move around a bit, and should be greasy so it can do that?

 

I did a complete es install on my 92 hatch... only problem i had was not enough grease ... squeak noise though no popping. id double check your work... make sure you didnt break something or miss a bolt.

 

OP I have a question that is related, sorta. Just curious, did you have to remove the original bushing shells to install the ES kit or was it necessary to leave them in?

 

If I remember correctly the ES bushings are meant to be used without any kind of shell. Depending on how you do it, you'll probably mangle the old bushing shells anyway.

As an update to my original post, it turns out the popping noise wasn't related to the bushings. The topmost nut on one of the struts came loose.

 

Howd you get the old bushing out without a press

 

It wasn't easy but you might be able to find a better way.

The original bushings have a metal shell around them that will be rusted solid to the LCA. Maybe soak those in PB Blaster for a day or two first. The "right" way should be to use a press to push the bushing+shell out of its socket.

I didn't have a press and didn't feel like waiting so I chiseled the rubber with screwdrivers+drill until the old bushing came completely out. That step took a really long time. Then I cut through the shell with a hacksaw, pried it loose and hammered it the rest of the way out. Each bushing took maybe an hour or so. Waste of time maybe, but at least I got the new bushings on that day.

If you come up with a better way that doesn't involve a press I'd love to hear about it...

 

use a drill to eat up the rubber and then knock out the middle bushing sleeve...then use the hacksaw to cut the bushing sleve in 2 spots so you can knock that out.....

 

What I did on the old Z I had was remove the control arms and use a propane torch to melt out the rubber from the old bushings, then hack-saw through each bushing shell in two places (Like Mustclime said). They fall right out with some help from a screwdriver. Plus you get to play with fire. >:-p

BTW thanks for the info on the shells. When I did this on the Z many years ago I used Prothane and had to keep the shells in the control arms.

 

Yeah. I have heard of people melting the old ones out. And putting their new bushings in the freezer overnight and pulling them out right before install so they are a little smaller and press in easier.

 

I think if/when I do this again I'll use a MAP gas torch instead of the propane, because it gets hotter (thus melting the bushing faster). I ran into a little problem with the propane regulator getting frozen from all the cold gas flowing through it. Couldn't get the damn thing to turn off... had to tap the regulator on something a couple of times before it would slowly close (this was in 90 degree heat).