Like the title says. Something is killing my battery when i dont drive it more than every 3 days. Until i can figure out what it is, where can/should i put a battery switch? This would be partly a theft deterrent, but mostly the save the batteries power. So i would need it somewhere i could reach with ease . I dont want to pop my hood everytime i need to start it.

 

Well it needs to be somewhere easy to get to like you said. Your going to need to extend a battery cable into the cabin through the firewall. Under the the dash somewhere would be my choice. But under your seat. Inside your console or glove compartment.... Just depends to what length you want to go to when starting your car

 

I would focus my energy on solving the draw issues first. Check the obvious things, dome light, trunk/hatch light, try pulling the dome light/back-up (radio memory) fuse and see if it still drains your battery down after a few days. A battery with a bad cell will also cause a internal drain, meaning you may not have a issue with your vehicle at all. Once a battery gets deep-cycled, it will never return to 100%, every additional time it is deep-cycled it will come back weaker.

Kirk R

 

By having the battery tested would it tell me if it had a bad cell? The battery is only 2 months old

 

in this order... get the battery tested at a chain store that does it for free (advance/Autozone)...

if the batt tests good then check for a parisitic drain...

if you have no drains test your alt...

and after that if nothing is working i would put a cutoff switch somewhere in the vehicle

 

I do agree with this BTW. Always try to fix the real problem before putting some sorta workaround in place. Just trying to answer the original post

 

Do you have a system?

 

like some of us on the forum, i would try to find the issue first. get your digital multimeter and put it on amp mode. then pull your positive battery terminal and connect both leads in series with the battery terminal and the car positive wire side. you should see a reading on the display showing you the current draw. it should be zero or very close to it if there's no parasitic drain. then start pulling out suspected things and see if the values drop to zero.

be careful when you do this because most DMM can only handle up to 10A. anymore will blow ur DMM's fuse if it has one. if it doesn't then you're out a DMM.

 

that is why clamp meters are the greatest thing since sliced bread :p