Okay I have 1998 Civic cx, with a d16y7.
My Oil Pan gasket was seeping from the engine stiffner so I decided to replace the gasket.
I used a fel-pro Permadry Oil Pan Gasket with Permatex Red High-Temp RTV silicone gasket.

Here are some diagrams of the exact places I applied RTV. I put a good amount of RTV on the cylinder block.





After waiting about an hour, I filled the engine up with oil again.
The next day I notice big improvment, but theres still a very slow seep from the little square hole on the engine stiffner.
Here is a picture where its comin from

Does anyone have any Idea what I did wrong? or Tips.. I'm pretty stuck.. and frustrated.
thanks for reading..

 

sucks man, looks like your in need of a rear main seal.

 

230sport: do you really think it is the the rear main seal? what are the symptoms of the rear main seal and where does it leak from? How can I check?

 

I am thinking about doing the oil pan again.. before I start going into other seals. Does anyone on honda-tech knows if you are suppose to use RTV for fel-pro permadry oil pan gasket? and how much? Also when I tightened the Oil Pan I didn't really do it in a certain order I just tightened it.

 

Maybe you could remove the pan, clean it with rags and gas or brake cleaner and scrape all the gunk off with a razor til its clean. Then get a new gasket and apply a thin layer of RTV all the way around the pan and then set the gasket in place and add another thin even layer all the way around the gasket and let it set up for a few minutes before attaching the pan right away. You could try an every other bolt tightening pattern and then go back around and tighten them all equally.

If it still seeps, Keep an eye on your oil level until you are ready to pull the motor and do an overhaul.

My two cents... this has worked many times. If it is the oil pain in the *** gasket that is leaking.

Peter

 

Symptoms? When a rear main starts to leak, it leaks from underneath the car where the transmission meets the engine, ie: your picture. As far as checking goes, you cant really check unless you remove the dust cover on the transmission. Even still clearances are so small you might not even see anything.

 

after cleaning both mating surfaces exceptinally well, will i then install the gasket. i use an every other method like said above. i also go over each bolt 3 times.

i normally overtorque the gasket since i just tighten it by feel, (i think torque spec is somewhere around 12-16 area) i tighten all diffrent bolts for 9 years so i completly understand what is to tight and to loose.

it wouldnt hurt if you can try to tighten the bolts if you see a leak coming from the gasket.

 

well... over tightening can actually cause a leak, torque them on the next go around just to be safe...

 

okay I think I'm going to redo the gasket, but does anyone know specifically If I can / should use RTV with a fel-pro Permadry gasket? Anyone ever use RTV with Permadry gasket with sucess??

When i installed it, my friends torque wrench did have the ability go as low as 9lb so my friend just tightened the bolts by feel, but he has a good sense in that. I'm going to go borrow a torque wrench. Just to make everything right this time.

 

hmm.. nobody knows about Fel-Pro Permadry gaskets?? Do i just treat this gaskets like the regular oem one? and how is the High temp red silicone RTV by permatex? Should I layer the whole top with a thin layer of RTV like pjscmitt said?

 

when i do my oil pan gaskets i COVER both sides of the gasket. Meaning the block i cover with RTV BLACK then i cover the whole oil pan side with RTV black put the gasket on the oil pan and attach it to the block. I also cris cross the bolt pattern. IMO i think anything you do that requires that many bolts should be criss crossed. I hand tightend them criss cross then i go over with them to tight criss cross then i go back again to make sure everythign is even and tight and torqued.

also according to your pictures the block side is done wrong. You have RTV on the oil pan side but the block side is going to leak since there is no RTV there.

if you dont want to cover the whole thing in RTV then i woudl at least cover the both sides of teh gasket where it starts to round up like you did on the bottom half.

 

Hey Lobster, thanks for the feedback do you see a difference between RTV black, and high temp red? and ultra grey? are they all the same or is there a reason you prefer black? and what do you mean by criss cross? I don't really understand how that pattern works can you explain?

 

eh i just use black for just about everything. Never had a problem with it so i just stuck with it. I used it on all my oil pumps, valve covers, oil pan gaskets, and rear main seal too. Never had a problem.

i mean just like a head gasket almost.

if you do the front then do the rear and repeat.

9 3 1 5 7
8 6 2 4 10

of course you have more then 10 bolts but always cross to the other side so that both sides get even preassure and only to hand tight. after all is done then you can torque them down in the same order this ensures that one side isnt tq down too much while the other is in the air but feels tight since the other side is pushing it up since the other is tq down.